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Type 3 fitted disco - supposed to completely eliminate SA pre-travel?


TJART

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Have all the typical CGW parts, etc.


Orded the type 3 disco. Got it in today, marked with sharpie and made a skimming pass with the diamond bit. Just enough to take the sharpie off.


Drop it in the gun to get an initial fitting and low and behold, it functions and resets completely. There is a slight amount of pre-travel in the SA, so my question is - is it supposed to eliminate pre-travel in SA completely? Should I have put the disco in to see if it worked with out needing to be fit? I thought all type 3 discos needed to be fit?


Thanks for any wisdom!


P.S. Do I need to put the spring in with the sear spacer (as a washer, of sorts)?


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I always take them right out of the bag and install them, more often than not they don't need anything.

lol, fantastic.

Direct from the website:

"NOTE: this part is oversized and will not drop in. Drops into the Canik series DA/SA pistols."

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David tends to err on the side of caution. For best results always test fit in YOUR gun.

"NOTE: this part is oversized and will not drop in. Drops into the Canik series DA/SA pistols."

Sure thing.

Nothing like wasting $38 on the advice of the manufacturer.

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A step might be to make sure that there is a problem, i.e. that the pre-travel is more than what is needed to make the gun reliable at all temperatures and under conditions of wear and reasonably dirty.

A second step might be to verify that the pre-travel is created by the fit of the disco and not the taking up of slack between other surfaces.

A last step might be to verify that a small amount of pre-travel is not actually a good thing for your shooting.

For what it is worth. It seems like since you removed an extremely small amount of material this would not be significant enough to make a great trigger a bad trigger.

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I just put a type 3 in my SP-01 Shadow and I had to take off about .035 before the trigger reset 80% of the time. Then I switched to 600 grit sandpaper until I got 100% reliability. I have a tiny bit of pre-travel as well, but it is just the slack being taken up by the other trigger components.

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David is a very good guy, if you contact him in a non-accusatory way I wouldn't be surprised if he sent you another.

Trust me, I love that guy and all his products. I've been CGW loyal from day one. Not a single accusatory thing directed his way, at all.

A step might be to make sure that there is a problem, i.e. that the pre-travel is more than what is needed to make the gun reliable at all temperatures and under conditions of wear and reasonably dirty.

A second step might be to verify that the pre-travel is created by the fit of the disco and not the taking up of slack between other surfaces.

A last step might be to verify that a small amount of pre-travel is not actually a good thing for your shooting.

For what it is worth. It seems like since you removed an extremely small amount of material this would not be significant enough to make a great trigger a bad trigger.

Checking now.

I just put a type 3 in my SP-01 Shadow and I had to take off about .035 before the trigger reset 80% of the time. Then I switched to 600 grit sandpaper until I got 100% reliability. I have a tiny bit of pre-travel as well, but it is just the slack being taken up by the other trigger components.

I pulled the slide back off, and it seemed as if the trigger to the trigger bar, to the disco had a little pre travel that was not disco related.

It just worried me since I only made one pass, via sharpie stencil, and it dropped right in. Made me think I should have tried putting it in out of the bag, but the website says it HAS to be fit. That's what separates it from the T1 and T2.

I'll get a video up in a second.

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Yeah. I was scared I took too much off at first. Then I did the same thing you did and worked the action with the slide off. I am very happy with the results. I figure that tiny bit of play is just a little insurance against an AD. This is the profile of my disco once I was finished.

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Yeah. I was scared I took too much off at first. Then I did the same thing you did and worked the action with the slide off. I am very happy with the results. I figure that tiny bit of play is just a little insurance against an AD. This is the profile of my disco once I was finished.

Here is a quick vid. I'll break the gun down and also upload the disco.

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How close can the T1/t2 disco get to the t3?

Sent from an iDevice. Please forgive any grammatical or spelling errors. If the post doesn't make sense or is not amusing then it is technology's fault and most certainly not operator error.

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How close can the T1/t2 disco get to the t3?

Sent from an iDevice. Please forgive any grammatical or spelling errors. If the post doesn't make sense or is not amusing then it is technology's fault and most certainly not operator error.

The "drop in" disco would not fit in my gun. Per talking with cgw and others, there is quite a bit of dimensional tolerance gun to gun and part to part with our cz's (sort of makes sense given the price point of the base guns). I ended up putting in a pre-b disco from cz custom which I believe is slightly smaller than the cgw drop in, pre-travel on my gun looks the same as the video above for all practical purposes.

So I think the answer is that it depends on your gun.

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How close can the T1/t2 disco get to the t3?

Sent from an iDevice. Please forgive any grammatical or spelling errors. If the post doesn't make sense or is not amusing then it is technology's fault and most certainly not operator error.

The "drop in" disco would not fit in my gun. Per talking with cgw and others, there is quite a bit of dimensional tolerance gun to gun and part to part with our cz's (sort of makes sense given the price point of the base guns). I ended up putting in a pre-b disco from cz custom which I believe is slightly smaller than the cgw drop in, pre-travel on my gun looks the same as the video above for all practical purposes.

So I think the answer is that it depends on your gun.

Hmmm, that's interesting you were able to get that close with a pre fit disco compared to a fitted disco.

Why don't I see a wing on that disco, TJ? Is there a wing on the other side?

Yes, the cgw disco is mono wing, and it's on the other side.

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How close can the T1/t2 disco get to the t3?

Not sure, but fitting the T3 is not hard, at all. If you're thinking about making a disco swap, def go with the T3.

It really depends on the stacked tolerances of the gun. I've never tried a t3 but I had to remove some materials from the other types to get them to fit. At other times they just drop in.

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CZs can definitely have some variance inside. The two examples were using different hammers this could play into it as well.

Ah, I just noticed that. The CGW hammer barely has any hammer hooks, vs. the hammer in the pic you posted.

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CZs can definitely have some variance inside.

Is there access to target dimensions? It would be interesting to "blue print a gun" or just to know where it was at.

Well, I probably could have dropped in my t3 disco that "needed to be fitted," without fitting, if I'd have done an initial fit. Some people need to take different amounts of material off, though. So I'd say there is defiantly no way to "blueprint" one.

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