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Magslick


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Pat,

Mag Slick is by a guy here in Michigan who has been shooting IPSC and pins for a couple of decades.  I use it on my mags, and on my Dillon.  In Michigan, ranges tend to be sand pits.  In some ranges, your mag disappears into the sand as if the stage were some French Foreign Legion engagement.  The Mag Slick reduces sand adherence, and makes it easier to clean.

On my Dillon, I use it to reduce friction (and powder buildup) on the shell plate, and on the primer shuttle.

Mag Slick and Slide Glide, what else do you need?

Patrick

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  • 2 weeks later...

Chris,

After I had tuned and tested my super mags I had them hardchromed, with a high polish.  Let me tell you, they are slicker than snot.  Not cheap though, I paid about $10 per mag and $12 for the big stick.  I think it's worth it though.

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I'm a bit too cheap, I hand polish mine starting with a fine wire wheel on a bench grinder (my shooting buddy is a locksmith and he's got an awesome set of tool's) then I polish by hand with 600 grit wet/dry paper then move to Flitz Metal Polish. A bit of work but they positively squirt out of the gun.

Pat

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Pat,

You said you use Slick 50 in your mags? Just wondering. I got some Magslick a couple of days ago and I'll be trying it. I have been using Mineral Spirits to clean the mags out from all the carbon and fouling between matches. I then spray Pledge (yes Pledge, the furniture polisher) on a rag and run the rag through it. It makes the inside of the mags slicker than you can imagine. Remember grabbing or touching something that has been sprayed with Pledge, pretty darn slick. I use the Mineral Spirits and Pledge between matches and Pledge only between stages. I'll try the Magslick and see what happens. Do you use a spray Slick 50?

Kevin

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Yup, we saw some in an auto parts store in Quincy a couple of years ago and though we'd try it. Pretty slippery, apply with a cloth sprayed with slick 50 then run a dry one through, the film left over is pretty slick.

Pat

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've tried MagSlick and basically its a lot of coin for what is basically a teflon style spray lube.  From a physics perspective, reducing the nascent friction of the mag itself via polishing/sanding/chroming will have the greatest long term benefit, and will result in minimal potential for FOD (Foreign Object Damage).  All lubricants, chemically, are carriers, or transport mediums and can carry crud.  Waxes, alternatively, act as barriers or repellents.  So typically, you will use a lubricant to maintain a friction transfer surface where your primary concern is consistency of motion (ie slide-frame connection), whereas you would use a wax as a repellent to prevent contamination that could impede effective function.

Corollary is that lubricants tend to last longer than waxes before reapplication is required.  Teflon lasts like a lube but repels like a wax - hence it's ongoing use in cookware.  Lube products with PFTE additives like Slick 50 can provide the best of both worlds, the criticality being how much is used.  PFTE creates a microchemical bond with low elasticity and works best when a very thin layer is applied.  If a thick layer is used, it gunks up very badly, and performance can in fact be impaired.  This is particularly noticeable in older muscle car engines that are worn a bit and then have a PFTE lube dumped in.

Hope this helps, or at least cured any insomnia

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