kneelingatlas Posted February 16, 2016 Author Share Posted February 16, 2016 That could be cool Although I think if I drill holes past the point where I can make major with SP2 under 115gr bullets I'm going the wrong direction. If you have to use heavier bullets or faster powder to make major what's the point? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Open1215 Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 Agreed. With both mine I'm running 38 so if I need 11g 105 or so I'm ok w that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aircooled6racer Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 I'm actually pretty excited to put Eric's comp on a CZ Hello: You haven't done that yet. You are gonna love it and how soft it shoots with 115's and HS-6. Thanks, Eric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Feegee Dean Matlock Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 https://vimeo.com/155467045 CZ Czechmate 7.6gr of XP100 115gr BBI Bullets @1.140 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Acolytefyj Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 I know you're big on grip strength Charlie, have you ever tried the Captains of Crush? I'm quite a bit weaker than my wresting days, but I can still close a #2 pretty easy in both hands, so I don't think grip strength is the issue. Yep, I use the Captains of Crush grippers 2 - 3 times a week. Before my last neck injury that affected my left arm/hand I could easily close the #2.5 with both hands. After the neck injury I can't close the #2.5 any more with my left hand, but I can close a #2. I am still working on getting my left hand grip strength back to what it was, but I think the permanent nerve damage to my left arm/hand will keep me from getting back to 100%. My right hand is still the same strength as before. I can almost close a #3 with my right hand. From watching your slow motion videos its hard to tell if the excessive muzzle flip is due to actual grip strength, friction on gun, or wrist angles. If you take a slow motion video of the support hand side that will tell more of the story about your grip on the gun. If your support hand is staying stationary and the grip is moving within your hand then it could be a grip strength or friction on grip issue. If your support hand wrist is bending along with the movement of the gun then its usually an issue with your wrist not being locked forward in the canted position properly. Do you lock the wrist of your strong hand as well? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
limited shtr Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 If cha-lee is running a 18 mainspring and 7 lbs recoil spring what are other spring setups for 9major open guns ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anilson Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 we run 17 and 7 on most guns Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Feegee Dean Matlock Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 On my Czechmate I run a 17 mainspring and a 11 recoil spring. I think they are set up with a 14 lb from factory. My STI pistols are 17 main and a 9lb recoil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a matt Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 17main and 9 recoil, I was working with the a 8lb recoil spring but the recoil impulse was very sluggish & odd compared to the 9lb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasShootR Posted February 24, 2016 Share Posted February 24, 2016 I did a search here looking for some help with tuning my open gun and found this thread. I was looking to find information on what steps to take to keep the red dot in the glass during recoil. After reading through slow motion comp testing I think my gun is on par with most other guns shown here in videos, meaning the dot movement looks very similar. I shot a match last weekend where I felt I was waiting forever for my dot to come back into the glass so I could take the shot ( call the shot ). Watching and listening other open shooters go through the stages it sounded like their splits were much faster and their times agreed. So I decided to test a couple different loads through it, keeping everything the same but the powder charge. I shot a 168 power factor, 172 PF and my original load 174 PF between 15 and 20 yards. My results showed that my original load of 174PF performed the best with less muzzle dip. It was interesting to me because during the match I never noticed any muzzle dip only muzzle rise and what seemed forever for it to return to center. But what my test showed was what seemed forever was on average .38 second splits @ 15-20 yards. I guess that's not that slow for a B class shooter. But the other two loads had noticeable muzzle dip which didn't change my splits all that much, actually my splits went down a little with the 172 PF but the acuarcy went down as well. So all in all I've come to the conclusion that because there doesn't seem to be a holy grail to get a flat shooting open gun, without a lot of expense that most shooters just learn when to pull the trigger at the right moment in order to get a hit in the a zone with fast splits. But I stand to be corrected and any suggestion on how getting a flatter shooting gun, would be appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Feegee Dean Matlock Posted February 24, 2016 Share Posted February 24, 2016 (edited) What kind of pistol you shooting? 90 degree mount or normal mount? Edited February 24, 2016 by Feegee Dean Matlock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasShootR Posted February 24, 2016 Share Posted February 24, 2016 What kind of pistol you shooting? 90 degree mount or normal mount? I shoot a 38 super built by Cameron Guns. It has a side mount c-more. It was built to shoot super comp but it eats supers as well thanks to Eddie J. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kneelingatlas Posted February 26, 2016 Author Share Posted February 26, 2016 (edited) I shot some videos with my 38s today, each with a health radius on the firing pin stop: Edited February 26, 2016 by kneelingatlas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kneelingatlas Posted February 26, 2016 Author Share Posted February 26, 2016 Then just for kicks I loaded some 100gr pills over 11gr of SP2: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kneelingatlas Posted February 26, 2016 Author Share Posted February 26, 2016 Then 12.4gr of SP2 (yes, too much of a good thing!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-ManBart Posted February 26, 2016 Share Posted February 26, 2016 I did a search here looking for some help with tuning my open gun and found this thread. I was looking to find information on what steps to take to keep the red dot in the glass during recoil. After reading through slow motion comp testing I think my gun is on par with most other guns shown here in videos, meaning the dot movement looks very similar. I shot a match last weekend where I felt I was waiting forever for my dot to come back into the glass so I could take the shot ( call the shot ). Watching and listening other open shooters go through the stages it sounded like their splits were much faster and their times agreed. So I decided to test a couple different loads through it, keeping everything the same but the powder charge. I shot a 168 power factor, 172 PF and my original load 174 PF between 15 and 20 yards. My results showed that my original load of 174PF performed the best with less muzzle dip. It was interesting to me because during the match I never noticed any muzzle dip only muzzle rise and what seemed forever for it to return to center. But what my test showed was what seemed forever was on average .38 second splits @ 15-20 yards. I guess that's not that slow for a B class shooter. But the other two loads had noticeable muzzle dip which didn't change my splits all that much, actually my splits went down a little with the 172 PF but the acuarcy went down as well. So all in all I've come to the conclusion that because there doesn't seem to be a holy grail to get a flat shooting open gun, without a lot of expense that most shooters just learn when to pull the trigger at the right moment in order to get a hit in the a zone with fast splits. But I stand to be corrected and any suggestion on how getting a flatter shooting gun, would be appreciated. Not to offend anybody posting in this thread (it's interesting stuff), but the search for a flat shooting Open gun has been going on for ages, and it's virtually a complete waste of time. Gunsmiths have built guns that have almost no muzzle flip at all, and nobody can learn to shoot them well. Consistency, not a lack of muzzle flip, is what really matters. It's true that certain combinations of comp and load will work better than others, but that should be the fine tuning part of the equation. The reality is that you can change how flat the gun shoots more by grip technique than anything you can do with comps or ammo. The best guys shoot fast splits because the gun is resetting fast because they're using the right grip technique to drive the gun properly, and that varies with the shot(s) they're taking. If you have a load that will keep the dot within the scope window with a neutral grip, your comp and load combo is good enough that what you really need to work on is learning grip technique, and how to drive the gun. At some point you'll realize you're shooting much faster, and the gun is tracking smoothly, with very little dot rise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kimberacp Posted February 26, 2016 Share Posted February 26, 2016 The reality is that you can change how flat the gun shoots more by grip technique than anything you can do with comps or ammo. The best guys shoot fast splits because the gun is resetting fast because they're using the right grip technique to drive the gun properly, and that varies with the shot(s) they're taking. If you have a load that will keep the dot within the scope window with a neutral grip, your comp and load combo is good enough that what you really need to work on is learning grip technique, and how to drive the gun. At some point you'll realize you're shooting much faster, and the gun is tracking smoothly, with very little dot rise. your sir are absolutely correct! I have noticed that (for me), when I have shot the fastest, whether Limited or with Open, if I just cradle the gun, without a death grip and RELAX my emotional state of mind and JUST watch, what is in front of me...there is nothing faster, for me. Especially, with the Open gun, using the technique, I describe above, I see slight dot movement upward and straight back to where it started. Two shots, pin point accuracy! And this all comes from "buning ammo" there is no substitute to practice! IMO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Open1215 Posted February 26, 2016 Share Posted February 26, 2016 (edited) I shot some videos with my 38s today, each with a health radius on the firing pin stop: https://youtu.be/lQJs23wWeXQ https://youtu.be/asRv1hXSjjI I would like to see a pic of the firing pin stop.Add. That Bedell looks super flat! Edited February 26, 2016 by Open1215 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigboy69 Posted February 26, 2016 Share Posted February 26, 2016 keelingatlas, did you ever try them with just a slight break, just a slight radius, on the firing pin stop? Supposedly, it hits the hammer up higher and makes it go back quicker. Pretty much a leverage thing, And the felt recoil is supposed to be noticeably different Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kimberacp Posted February 26, 2016 Share Posted February 26, 2016 we need pictures of the FP stops to get a good idea of how to shape them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kneelingatlas Posted February 26, 2016 Author Share Posted February 26, 2016 I'll get some pictures up. I used a smooth radius from the pin hole to the lower inner edge, if that makes sense. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigboy69 Posted February 26, 2016 Share Posted February 26, 2016 (edited) Here is how I have mine. It does really change the feel of the recoil. I would love to see someone to do video testing with it https://www.dropbox.com/s/xqogktvg80cyj5a/Pict2096.jpg?dl=0 Edited February 26, 2016 by bigboy69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kimberacp Posted February 27, 2016 Share Posted February 27, 2016 That FP stop is like having a heavy MS spring. What weight are you using in the MS? I assume your running 7lb spring recoil? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kneelingatlas Posted February 27, 2016 Author Share Posted February 27, 2016 we need pictures of the FP stops to get a good idea of how to shape them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teros135 Posted February 27, 2016 Share Posted February 27, 2016 Atlas, Do you have a FPS cut like bigboy69's, to test alongside yours? That would answer a lot of questions about whether the FPS shape significantly affects slide momentum and dot movement (i.e, muzzle rise/movement). , Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now