Trigger Take-up/creep Question

[JOETHOMPSON]

Hello everyone, I am new to the forum.

My question is, How do you remove as much creep/take-up from the 1911 trigger. I read an article the other day where Piatt says that he likes his guns to have no creep to the trigger at all. How do you do this. I think I would like to either try it myself or have a gunsmith do it. Thank you in advance for your help.

[SmittyFL]

There are people on here more qualified than I to answer this, but I'll give it a shot.

Termanologies may differ but as I view it take up and creep are two different things.

Take up, or pre-travel is the distance the trigger moves prior to engaging the sear. That can be adjusted with the pre-travel screw located in the trigger.

Creep is the distance or felt movement between when the trigger engages the sear and when the hammer falls. To put it another way, it is the time the sear is moving out from under the hammer hooks.

So, to get rid of pre-travel you can adjust the pre-travel screw.

All 1911's have creep, it's not a bad word. It just depends on whether you can feel it or not. Most folks when they say they have no creep or have a "crisp" trigger are referring to the "felt" creep. Which on a properly set up gun will be close to none. It's accommplished through cutting sear angles and the sear/hammer relationship. So it's probably not something you can do yourself. Some might say it's an art form and not even all gunsmiths can do it right.

Hope this doesn't confuse you more.

[wide45]

I've never seen a trigger with a screw to adjust pre-travel. It could be done, but most only have a screw to adjust post travel, or over travel. I have used STI triggers with a little bendable tab for setting pre travel.

I have seen pictures of a screw added to the frame, used to set pre travel.

[Brazos Custom]

Pre-travel is adjusted usually with a tab on the trigger bow you bend. The screw you see in the trigger is used to set overtravel. As Smitty said, creep is movement of the sear that you can feel. If you get the angles right, the surfaces smooth and the engagement even and full most people cannot feel this movement in a good trigger job.

There is more detailed info here:Brazos Trigger Tuning Tips

[Bob Hostetter]

Pretravel is the distance the trigger moves before it loads against the sear. Most triggers have a small tab you can bend to adjust pretravel. We used to weld a small bump on the back of the trigger stirup and then file it down to do the same thing. The tab is better........

Creep is the movement of the sear face moving against the hammer hooks as you pull the trigger. This can be reduced to the point where you can't feel it by properly cutting and polishing the hammer hooks and the sear face, and reducing the depth of engagement.

While it certainly possible for just about anyone to do a decent trigger job, there is a learning curve which can be very interesting. If you decide to try it yourself, be careful.............

[JOETHOMPSON]

Thank you all very much for the help.

[SmittyFL]

I've never seen a trigger with a screw to adjust pre-travel.

Yeah, yeah smarty pants.

That is correct. That's what I get for posting first thing in the morning before a match.

My bad.

[schoonie]

MIKE!

10 points down!

[bountyhunter]

I've never seen a trigger with a screw to adjust pre-travel.  It could be done, but most only have a screw to adjust post travel, or over travel.  I have used STI triggers with a little bendable tab for setting pre travel.

I have seen pictures of a screw added to the frame, used to set pre travel.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

The Volquartsen trigger for the Ruger MkII has both an overtravel and pretravel allen screw to adjust each seperately. The pre travel screw adjusts the distance the trigger can come forward when released... ie, stops it at the point right where it is about to engage the sear.