Czechnology Posted October 23, 2015 Share Posted October 23, 2015 Working on my new Tanfoglio Stock II and I have installed the following so far: - Henning Gen 3 Extended Firing Pin - 13lbs Wolff Hammer Spring - #18 Plunger Spring - Henning Guide Rod with 10# Recoil Spring - Dawson Fiber Front I have polished the trigger bar, trigger bar plunger, hammer strut, sides of hammer that interface with the slide, and the edge of the firing pin retainer that engages the hammer when the slide begins to cycle out of battery. I have kept the stock firing pin spring in so far; should I swap that out with the ones included with the Wolff recoil springs? Or something else? I have read various opinions on using these.. The trigger has lightened however I feel that it stacks worse now than when I first got the gun; I am assuming because the trigger pull lightened up until it begins to stack so the stacking is more pronounced at this point. I want to eliminate as much stacking as possible without having to use Federal Primers or the light EG hammer spring that seem to have a short life span. What areas am I missing that need to be polished to help with the stacking? Does the interruptor need to be polished? Any parts of the frame? The firing pin block? I am also looking to buy the titan hammer, extended firing pin block, and a new sear to fit to the new hammer. I can't seem to get any replies from Last Round Armament; Is there anywhere else that I can get these from or do I need to order from EG's online shop? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
echase1 Posted October 23, 2015 Share Posted October 23, 2015 With the Euro to Dollar conversion being what it is now, it was easier for me to order it all from EG's pro shop. Took about 10 days from order to arrival. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.Elliott Posted October 23, 2015 Share Posted October 23, 2015 (edited) Stacking comes mostly from the relatively short mainspring. You can reduce it with the lighter mainspring, but you won't eliminate it completely. You can also lighten the trigger bar spring a little and polish the guide and the race it rides in, then grease it. That will soften things a bit. Edited October 23, 2015 by R.Elliott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Czechnology Posted October 24, 2015 Author Share Posted October 24, 2015 Stacking comes mostly from the relatively short mainspring. You can reduce it with the lighter mainspring, but you won't eliminate it completely. You can also lighten the trigger bar spring a little and polish the guide and the race it rides in, then grease it. That will soften things a bit. http://benstoegerproshop.com/eaa-tanfoglio-witness-trigger-bar-spring ^ Are you referring to the spring that is part of the trigger bar plunger? If so, I have swapped out the stock one for the #18 one Henning sells. Need to polish the the guide and the race it rides in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bpipe95 Posted October 24, 2015 Share Posted October 24, 2015 I've found that xtreme springs don't stack nearly as bad as wolf springs. With xtreme light springs and a Titan hammer I am gtg with win and lighter primers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Czechnology Posted October 26, 2015 Author Share Posted October 26, 2015 I've found that xtreme springs don't stack nearly as bad as wolf springs. With xtreme light springs and a Titan hammer I am gtg with win and lighter primers. How often are you needing to swap your xtreme hammer spring? I plan on getting the titan hammer, 1 piece sear, and extended firing pin block.. On Grauffels shop there are two options for the 1 piece sear a normal and extended. Anyone know which one is the better option to buy if fitting with the titan hammer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbearden Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 Great thread. I just picked up my first stock 2. I haven't touched anything yet, but you are getting my questions answered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbearden Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 Great thread. I just picked up my first stock 2. I haven't touched anything yet, but you are getting my questions answered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.Elliott Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 (edited) http://benstoegerproshop.com/eaa-tanfoglio-witness-trigger-bar-spring ^ Are you referring to the spring that is part of the trigger bar plunger? If so, I have swapped out the stock one for the #18 one Henning sells. Need to polish the the guide and the race it rides in. Yes, that's correct. Looks like you're doing all the right stuff. Edited October 27, 2015 by R.Elliott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.Elliott Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 (edited) Double tap, sorry. Stupid cell phone... Edited October 27, 2015 by R.Elliott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bpipe95 Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 I've found that xtreme springs don't stack nearly as bad as wolf springs. With xtreme light springs and a Titan hammer I am gtg with win and lighter primers. How often are you needing to swap your xtreme hammer spring? I plan on getting the titan hammer, 1 piece sear, and extended firing pin block.. On Grauffels shop there are two options for the 1 piece sear a normal and extended. Anyone know which one is the better option to buy if fitting with the titan hammer? I do it around 5-7k rounds, though it's not needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbearden Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 What's the benefit of the xtreme sear housing vs the standard housing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beastly Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 IPSC - not supposed to polish internals, Xtreme parts supposedly come with a better (hard chrome maybe?) finish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Czechnology Posted October 27, 2015 Author Share Posted October 27, 2015 http://benstoegerproshop.com/eaa-tanfoglio-witness-trigger-bar-spring ^ Are you referring to the spring that is part of the trigger bar plunger? If so, I have swapped out the stock one for the #18 one Henning sells. Need to polish the the guide and the race it rides in. Yes, that's correct. Looks like you're doing all the right stuff. Good to know. Thanks! Went through and polished up the firing pin block, the channel it resides in, the hammer strut channel in the frame, and the channel the trigger bar plunger sits in as well. There is still stacking at the end but I have not put any rounds through it; will be taking care of that tomorrow and again this weekend . I think once I get a few thousand rounds through it that will help a bit with the stacking since it is purely polishing at this point. I've found that xtreme springs don't stack nearly as bad as wolf springs. With xtreme light springs and a Titan hammer I am gtg with win and lighter primers. How often are you needing to swap your xtreme hammer spring? I plan on getting the titan hammer, 1 piece sear, and extended firing pin block.. On Grauffels shop there are two options for the 1 piece sear a normal and extended. Anyone know which one is the better option to buy if fitting with the titan hammer? I do it around 5-7k rounds, though it's not needed. Interesting; down the road if I feel like tinkering I may try the xtreme springs out to see if they can be reliable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justinmac13 Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 (edited) After just doing all the mods talked about on here I am really happy I have did this so far. What a difference it makes from the stock trigger. I got most of my stuff from EG, Other than an issue with the CC company putting a lock on my card for an over seas order the transaction was great and quicker than expected. Parts list I have installed below. Titan Hammer EG extended fp reduced power fps EG guide rod wolf recoil spring pack click pen plunger spring CGW type 3 disco EG light hammer spring dawson fiber front site EG grips EG 1 pc sear EG extended fire pin block (need to fit yet) Polished everything. I do not have a trigger scale but it is a whole lot better than I started, but still not as smooth or good as the shadow. Edited October 27, 2015 by Justinmac13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
praetorian97 Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 I do not have a trigger scale but it is a whole lot better than I started, but still not as smooth or good as the shadow. You can get it just as good as a CZ trigger. Its always personal preference. I will say the different Hammer Spring ergonomics will always give CZ a slight lead in not having stacking at the end before the DA Break. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EngineerEli Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 I do not have a trigger scale but it is a whole lot better than I started, but still not as smooth or good as the shadow. You can get it just as good as a CZ trigger. Its always personal preference. I will say the different Hammer Spring ergonomics will always give CZ a slight lead in not having stacking at the end before the DA Break. I prefer the DA feel of my SII over the CZ offerings. I have the Titan, T3, Xtreme trigger, light hammer/FP springs, clipped plunger spring, and very thorough polishing and I do not notice any stacking... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
praetorian97 Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 Your thumb must not be calibrated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Czechnology Posted October 27, 2015 Author Share Posted October 27, 2015 After just doing all the mods talked about on here I am really happy I have did this so far. What a difference it makes from the stock trigger. I got most of my stuff from EG, Other than an issue with the CC company putting a lock on my card for an over seas order the transaction was great and quicker than expected. Parts list I have installed below. Titan Hammer EG extended fp reduced power fps EG guide rod wolf recoil spring pack click pen plunger spring CGW type 3 disco EG light hammer spring dawson fiber front site EG grips EG 1 pc sear EG extended fire pin block (need to fit yet) Polished everything. I do not have a trigger scale but it is a whole lot better than I started, but still not as smooth or good as the shadow. When you ordered the 1 pc sear from Grauffel's shop; did you order the normal or extended version? Are you restricted to any specific primers with this set up? I do not have a trigger scale but it is a whole lot better than I started, but still not as smooth or good as the shadow. You can get it just as good as a CZ trigger. Its always personal preference. I will say the different Hammer Spring ergonomics will always give CZ a slight lead in not having stacking at the end before the DA Break. I prefer the DA feel of my SII over the CZ offerings. I have the Titan, T3, Xtreme trigger, light hammer/FP springs, clipped plunger spring, and very thorough polishing and I do not notice any stacking... Which hammer/FP springs do you have in? Which Firing Pin and Firing Pin Block? Does your FPB work or is it not engaging the Firing Pin? Are you restricted to using a specific type of primers for reliability purposes with your set up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EngineerEli Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 Which Firing Pin and Firing Pin Block? Does your FPB work or is it not engaging the Firing Pin? Are you restricted to using a specific type of primers for reliability purposes with your set up? I'm using the Henning gen 3 FP with the extended (0.508") FPB, and it does work. The gen 4 currently does not, but I have been trying to work with Henning to get it tweaked slightly so that it does. I have just been using up the rest of the Remington primers that I had. I was having a few intermittent light strikes, maybe one per 50 rds, until I realized I was loading too long. I was just using the same ammo I loaded for my STI Eagle. After shortening the load, all the light strikes went away. (only about 200 rds ago though) It seams the round was resting against the rifling and the rim was ever so slightly away from the end of the chamber and when the FP hit it, it would seat the whole cartridge deeper against the chamber and absorb too much of the FP energy to set off the primer. MAKE SURE YOUR AMMO PASSES THE PLUNK TEST! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Czechnology Posted October 27, 2015 Author Share Posted October 27, 2015 Which Firing Pin and Firing Pin Block? Does your FPB work or is it not engaging the Firing Pin? Are you restricted to using a specific type of primers for reliability purposes with your set up? I'm using the Henning gen 3 FP with the extended (0.508") FPB, and it does work. The gen 4 currently does not, but I have been trying to work with Henning to get it tweaked slightly so that it does. I have just been using up the rest of the Remington primers that I had. I was having a few intermittent light strikes, maybe one per 50 rds, until I realized I was loading too long. I was just using the same ammo I loaded for my STI Eagle. After shortening the load, all the light strikes went away. (only about 200 rds ago though) It seams the round was resting against the rifling and the rim was ever so slightly away from the end of the chamber and when the FP hit it, it would seat the whole cartridge deeper against the chamber and absorb too much of the FP energy to set off the primer. MAKE SURE YOUR AMMO PASSES THE PLUNK TEST! Thanks for the info! Good to hear you are using the Gen 3 Henning FP as well. I will be ordering an extended FPB here shortly. I also spoke with Henning in regards to the Gen 4 FP not working with the FPB; he mentioned possibly doing a new firing pin as well as a FPB to go with it. I think that would be ideal. Probably not going to be available any time soon. Are you using a 1 pc sear? If so do you know if the one you ordered is the normal or extended 1 pc sear? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EngineerEli Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 Yup, 1 piece and standard (normal) one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Czechnology Posted October 27, 2015 Author Share Posted October 27, 2015 Yup, 1 piece and standard (normal) one. Great thanks! Do you know what the difference or purpose is for the extended 1 pc sear? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EngineerEli Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 It was discussed on here somewhere... I vaguely recall it being an extended blade so that the mating surface with the sear could be cut how ever the smith wanted, but I'm not 100% sure of that. Not sure how that would work if the sears are really case hardened as people say on here, maybe that one is through hardened, don't know... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vixty Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 I don't know if my S2's are special or what but I'm able to run a Gen 4 in both and the FPB works. However, one has the extended firing block in order to work and the other just uses the factory and works. But for the life of me I cant get a t3 disco to fit correctly. I've been through 2 with no luck. I would think after fitting 4 on CZ's it would be just as easy. I wonder if running the factory hammer has anything to do with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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