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Slide Stop


Tin Can

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I broke a slide stop during a match today (no spare). Any advise on a replacement? A fellow SS shooter said that he replaces his every 3000 rounds any comments on that. I am seeing prices anywhere from $5.00 to $61.00. TC

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I have small hands, so anything that had a little length would be nice. I have been eyeing EGW.

I use my support hand to run the stop so reach isn't an issue. I'm afraid I'd get my left hand up onto it while shooting if I fit an extended one.

3000 sounds excessive. A new stop every couple months? Fit two, shoot one for a while till you're sure it works and put it into your bag.

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I broke a slide stop during a match today (no spare). Any advise on a replacement? A fellow SS shooter said that he replaces his every 3000 rounds any comments on that. I am seeing prices anywhere from $5.00 to $61.00. TC

I put a new Fusion slide stop on my Trojan as well as one of their two piece magwells and I was pleasantly surprised by the quality. Forged steel well made, good price made in USA.

http://www.amazon.com/1911-Fusion-9mm-Slide-Stop/dp/B00N33WL80

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  • 1 month later...

The 1911 is not designed such that the slide stop is taking a beating and is a part that should be replaced on a regular interval, like 3k or even 10k rounds. Check the usual suspects - recoil spring, barrel lug/slide lock up, etc.

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I broke the stock one in my STI at the Illinois sectional this weekend. Gun has probably 10k rounds through it.

I have a stock STI slide stop in my Edge that has 30k rounds on it so far. I hope to get at least 8 times that number out of it.

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How /where are these breaking? Are the guns locking back on an empty mag. These aren't wear parts and don't need to be proactively replaced. The actual portion that engages and locks the slide back is the only area on them that I could see breaking. If the pin is breaking there are major issues inside the gun as it shouldn't be subject to that kind of force

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If your barrel is not hitting the frame and the link or the slide stop pin is taking the beating and breaking, your barrel is not fit properly. If your gun is properly timed, you should be able to push the barrel or comp against something and be able to move your pin with ease, even remove it from the gun.

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Tin, make sure you got the right size. I recommend you let a qualified gunsmith check the lock-up before you start using it. Your gun might work accurately if it's the wrong size or not tuned to fit the barrel. The barrel, barrel link, and pin might also be damage and you might end-up spending more. It would be a good investment to pay a minimal gunsmith labor fees.

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  • 1 month later...

Agree with what several folks here have said already--if you're breaking slide stops, the barrel likely isn't fit correctly. Sounds like it may be riding the link.

Check for link tension on the slide stop pin by pushing the gun slightly out of battery using the barrel and try to rotate the slide stop. It should spin fairly freely in the hole. If it's tight, you need a different link.

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Agree with what several folks here have said already--if you're breaking slide stops, the barrel likely isn't fit correctly. Sounds like it may be riding the link.

Check for link tension on the slide stop pin by pushing the gun slightly out of battery using the barrel and try to rotate the slide stop. It should spin fairly freely in the hole. If it's tight, you need a different link.

The barrel may be to "hard fit " and pounding the slide stop while going into battery. Should be able to ink the lower lugs and hand cycle with no recoil parts. It should go into battery pretty smooth or without having to tap on the back of the slide to hard. Disassemble and check ink. Should have solid contact at 12:30 to 1ish. If it's close you can hand lap with some 600 to seat it all in. Then you can fit a link properly. Now if he is riding the link you can check by pressing straight down on the chamber in battery. If it moves it's riding the link.
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