lppd4 Posted September 17, 2015 Share Posted September 17, 2015 I am thinking of having my M&P 9L's slide blasted to remove the melonite finish and leaving it bare stainless or having it Cerakoted in some other color than black. can the melonite be taken off easily? Anyone got pictures of guns done this way? any input appreciated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
High Lord Gomer Posted September 17, 2015 Share Posted September 17, 2015 Mine rusts easily enough with the coating, I would hesitate to leave it bare without some sort of coating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted September 17, 2015 Share Posted September 17, 2015 Soak it in peroxide Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
High Lord Gomer Posted September 17, 2015 Share Posted September 17, 2015 Soak it in peroxide I tried that. Now my gun is blond and doesn't get my jokes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted September 17, 2015 Share Posted September 17, 2015 Soak it in peroxideI tried that. Now my gun is blond and doesn't get my jokes.Now THAT'S funny!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lppd4 Posted September 17, 2015 Author Share Posted September 17, 2015 What does soaking it in peroxide do? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hi-Power Jack Posted September 17, 2015 Share Posted September 17, 2015 makes it cute, but dumb? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flash74 Posted September 17, 2015 Share Posted September 17, 2015 The stock finish is pretty tough. blasting is the best way to get it off. It will take a small grain media to get into the tight areas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkCO Posted September 17, 2015 Share Posted September 17, 2015 It is not a coating, but really a case-hardening process. Not easily removed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted September 17, 2015 Share Posted September 17, 2015 Blasting would certainly be faster but peroxide soaking will eventually break it down. I didn't do a slide but I did various other melonite parts on mine. Once it soaked long enough I could scrub it off Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StealthyBlagga Posted September 17, 2015 Share Posted September 17, 2015 Why not just paint over the Melonite? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoThG Posted September 20, 2015 Share Posted September 20, 2015 Why not just paint over the Melonite? Yeah. Why not just Cerakote over the factory finish? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkCO Posted September 20, 2015 Share Posted September 20, 2015 It won't stick to Melonite. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ParaLarry Posted September 20, 2015 Share Posted September 20, 2015 Glad this topic came up. I was planning on getting my CORE slide cerakoted to match my cool TT titanium blue base pads. How long should I let it soak before taking it to the shop? Sent from my reloading bench using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpyOne Posted September 20, 2015 Share Posted September 20, 2015 Krud Kutter...bought at grocery store..instantly dissolves bluing on firearms...might work for the melonite as well... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterthefish Posted September 20, 2015 Share Posted September 20, 2015 Birchwood Casey makes a rust remover that also will remove oxide coatings like bluing and parkerizing (which is the coating you're actually removing - the melonite process case hardens the treated parts which are then parked). It's basically just a mix of sulphuric and phosphoric acid. Not sure if you can grab those at a hardware store. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted September 20, 2015 Share Posted September 20, 2015 Glad this topic came up. I was planning on getting my CORE slide cerakoted to match my cool TT titanium blue base pads. How long should I let it soak before taking it to the shop? Sent from my reloading bench using Tapatalk I don't remember exactly but it wasn't anything like overnight. Maybe 2-3 hours and check it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwc5 Posted September 23, 2015 Share Posted September 23, 2015 (edited) I purchased this top end from a member here - believe it was bead blasted, then polished. Original thread with description - http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=219581&hl= Edited September 23, 2015 by mwc5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustybayonet Posted October 16, 2015 Share Posted October 16, 2015 My brother in law just used a green pad and gave his a brushed look leaving black in the cracks and lettering looks nice. He just make sure you rub in the direction you want the lines to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrWallace Posted October 30, 2015 Share Posted October 30, 2015 I blasted the finish off of my M&P 9 a while back and it was pretty interesting. It's hard to see in the pictures, but there is somewhat a damascus look to it after the coating was off. When I was done I cleaned all the crap out of it and left it to soak in a bag of of oil for a few days then cleaned it up and wiped it down with a silicone cloth. I never had any problems with it rusting when I used it as my production gun, it's recently been coated back to black so I can get it ready to sell. I also took my .40L slide to the surface grinder and slimmed it up a bit/gave it some different serrations/made it look like one of those fancy sig equinox type things. All of that being said, here are the pictures you were asking for! 40L Slide work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fordfan485 Posted November 11, 2015 Share Posted November 11, 2015 (edited) If you remove the finish I suggest using citric acid to remove any free iron and sulfides from the surface. This will help rebuild the passive chromium oxide layer on stainless steel which protects against rusting. Edited November 11, 2015 by Fordfan485 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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