Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Replacement Striker Springs


Mike62

Recommended Posts

I have a Gen4 G34 that I have put over 30K through. I have been through a few trigger/striker configurations and what I seem to like the best is the TTI kit with a ZEV striker and plunger. The TTI kit has only been in the gun for 5K and I am starting to get light strikes. I would like to get a 10 pack of replacements from Wolff as they are much cheaper than buying the individual springs from TTI but I am unsure what spring weight to use. Does anyone have any advice on which spring weight I should be using?

Thanks,

Mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If I remember correctly, zev refers to their striker springs by the approximate trigger poundage that each spring produces. So a Zev 2lb spring is a 4lb striker spring the use of which produces a ~2lb trigger, and Zev 3 and 4lb should equal the wolff 4.5 and 5lb springs

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The Wolff 4.5# springs will increase the trigger pull approximately 5oz. over the 4# springs but they are much more reliable when using the OEM firing pin. I change the 4.5# springs at 10,000 rounds and have not encountered any light strikes. YMMV.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The Wolff 4.5# springs will increase the trigger pull approximately 5oz. over the 4# springs but they are much more reliable when using the OEM firing pin. I change the 4.5# springs at 10,000 rounds and have not encountered any light strikes. YMMV.

Same here. I use Wolff 4.5 Striker Spring and Wolff RP Safety Spring. Never have a light strike..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a Gen4 G34 that I have put over 30K through. I have been through a few trigger/striker configurations and what I seem to like the best is the TTI kit with a ZEV striker and plunger. The TTI kit has only been in the gun for 5K and I am starting to get light strikes. I would like to get a 10 pack of replacements from Wolff as they are much cheaper than buying the individual springs from TTI but I am unsure what spring weight to use. Does anyone have any advice on which spring weight I should be using?

Thanks,

Mike

Wait, you're getting light strikes on a lightened striker or on a factory striker?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Taran,

Lightened ZEV v4? skeleton striker with your striker spring. When I ran all ZEV parts I had trouble with light strikes with their #2 spring right off the bat, so I switched to their #3 spring and had no issues for about 10K then I had a couple light strikes so I swapped for another #3 for another 15K. Their #3 spring worked fine for me but it came at a small cost .8lbs in trigger pull. In my former life in M&P land Tom Yost reported changing striker springs ever 2K (which is more often than I clean the gun) so I'm not sure if I have a problem or I just need to up my maintenance cycle.

I use CCI and Federal primers in case that has anything to do with it. My most recent issues have been with CCI since my stock of Federals is running a bit low. I also want to clarify that I only get about 1 light strike per 100 rounds, but to me that is far too many.

Thanks,

Mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Taran,

Lightened ZEV v4? skeleton striker with your striker spring. When I ran all ZEV parts I had trouble with light strikes with their #2 spring right off the bat, so I switched to their #3 spring and had no issues for about 10K then I had a couple light strikes so I swapped for another #3 for another 15K. Their #3 spring worked fine for me but it came at a small cost .8lbs in trigger pull. In my former life in M&P land Tom Yost reported changing striker springs ever 2K (which is more often than I clean the gun) so I'm not sure if I have a problem or I just need to up my maintenance cycle.

I use CCI and Federal primers in case that has anything to do with it. My most recent issues have been with CCI since my stock of Federals is running a bit low. I also want to clarify that I only get about 1 light strike per 100 rounds, but to me that is far too many.

Thanks,

Mike

Are you having light strikes with a standard striker?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Taran,

I pulled the ZEV striker out and it turns out the tip is broken off, I should have checked that before I assumed the spring was worn out. I have not shot it with the stock striker back in it but I am willing to bet that is my problem.

Hopefully Zev will replace it under warranty.

Thanks,

Mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've tried 2 of the name brand strikers, 2 of 1 kind broke, and both increased trigger pull and had a negative effect on feel. Went back to the oem. After about 2 years of shooting and countless hours of dry fire no problems at all. Running a 4.5 wolf striker spring. So far no light strikes with any of the big 3 primer companies. Getting a 2.5 lb pull. Stock striker is the way to go. I tried a 4 lb spring but only for a few hundred rounds, no light strikes but I just didn't feel confident with that set up. It did however give me a 2 lb pull.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rooster,

I think that's what I am going to do too. ZEV will not cover the striker under warranty - they claim its just normal wear :-(. Switching back to the stock striker with TTI spring does not seem to have increased my trigger weight. Not shooting much this week but next week I will put 500 rounds through it next week.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think your your making the right decision. TTI components are very good, I'm running his connector, base pads and front sight. His rear is a little narrow for my old eyes. You will find a lot of posts concerning breakage and problems with the aftermarket strikers, but very few complaints about the oem. If you get your stock trigger down to 2.5 lbs with stock parts and it's reliable your doing damn good for a glock.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

One problem I have run into with Zev strikers and safety plungers is that the striker kept hitting or rubbing on the striker when I fired causing light primer hits. I know this was the case because of marks on both the striker and the plunger. Took a tiny bit off of the top end of the groove on the plunger and no problems since, aprox 3k rds.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You should easily get down to 2.5 to 3 lbs. here's how to do it. TTI connector, reduced power firing pin block spring, wolf 4.5 striker spring, stock trigger spring. Polish the shit out of everything that rubs or slides, don't do anything to TTI connector he's got some coating on it. You can YouTube on what to polish. This is what I run and my pull is 2.5 lbs and that's with the stock striker. Even if you run the glock minus connector you'll be at 2 5/8 with a little more wall. The TTI connector is a nice smooth rolling break with less wall feel. Oh and this is with the stock trigger bar. I have the trigger assembly with the set screws to remove a little take and over travel, but not needed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You should easily get down to 2.5 to 3 lbs. here's how to do it. TTI connector, reduced power firing pin block spring, wolf 4.5 striker spring, stock trigger spring. Polish the shit out of everything that rubs or slides, don't do anything to TTI connector he's got some coating on it. You can YouTube on what to polish. This is what I run and my pull is 2.5 lbs and that's with the stock striker. Even if you run the glock minus connector you'll be at 2 5/8 with a little more wall. The TTI connector is a nice smooth rolling break with less wall feel. Oh and this is with the stock trigger bar. I have the trigger assembly with the set screws to remove a little take and over travel, but not needed.

That makes a nice dependable trigger.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...