Newbie To Handguns,what To Look For In A Used Gun?

[gingerbreadman]

I just recently got my restriced P.A.L. (canada) so im trying to decide what i want to buy, I recently bought a ruger mark3 .22 lr Its fun but I wanna step it up a notch.

From what iv read .44 mag seems to be a popular powerful cartridge that is very versitile, you can load it up, load it down, shoot cast bullets etc. very well.... I reload and casting bullets intrests me aswell

I know i want a double action revolver and I think I got it narrowed down to 2 guns. S&W 629 and Ruger redhawk

theres a gun show on this weekend and Iv been looking at one of each of these, they are both used guns but i have no idea what to look for in terms of wear or damage....

So my questions are:

1. what do you recomend for a gun?

2. what to look for in a used gun?

3. is .44 mag a good cartridge for all around use?

Quick responses would be good, as tommorow is the last day of the gun show...

thank you

-gbm-

[j1b]

GBM,

The first thing we don't know is what you want to use the gun for.

.44 Mag is a GREAT cartridge. I've got a Redhawk I've had for years and wouldn't trade it for anything. You can load them hot, or soft either way. Makes it fun.

A hot .44 Mag is without question a tough gun to shoot and will probably help develop some of the worst shooting habits known to mankind if not handled properly. They are amazingly powerful when loaded up - and I'll note that most factory ammo is pretty stout.

So for competition or general plinking I'd advise stay away. For a great hiking in the woods carry gun - great. Obviously you know which I'd go with - the Redhawk. I believe the 629 is a more popular gun however the Redhawk is known for being a tough heater that will last forever. When I bought mine I live in AK - I needed a gun that I knew would work no matter what - so I went Ruger.

If you just want to upgrade - get a 625 for a revolver - a great gun, great caliber (45 ACP) and fun to shoot. Or get any one of a number of 9mm semi-autos if you lean that way. Again, fun to shoot and easy to shoot. Whatever feels best will probably work as long as you go with a reputable brand. Glock, Springfield Armory, Sig and Beretta all come to mind as good 9mm's. Ooop - forgot about the CZ-75 - another great 9MM.

JB

[EricW]

GBM,

I'd go with - the Redhawk. I believe the 629 is a more popular gun however the Redhawk is known for being a tough heater that will last forever. When I bought mine I live in AK - I needed a gun that I knew would work no matter what - so I went Ruger.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Know I know why I like you so much, Jack. I got lucky and had good friends that steered me clear of the 629. I'm sooooo glad I asked before I bought. 629's simply do not hold up to a steady diet of full-house loads for a multitude of reasons. My Ruger is just a joy to shoot. Very mild-mannered even with hot 300's.

[Squishy]

I have a S&W 629 DX with a power port comp . It has over 5000 rds of full power loads thru it . Still very tight. I load 24.5 grs of H110 with a 240 XTP bullet. I also have a Ruger Redhawk very good gun (crappy trigger). It has about 3000 rounds thru it . I have carried both of these guns hunting for over 20 years. Shot many bowling pin matches. Both guns are great . The Smith has a better trigger pull.

[EricW]

Squishy,

I'm glad you got a good 629. The older ones *were* good. I looked at a BUNCH of newer (used) 629's. Every single one of them had moderate to severe gas-cutting of the top strap. Every, single newer 629 I've seen has moderate to severe peening of the cylinder notches. Until someone in Scottsdale decides to manage his/her investment, I (and more than a few others) don't have a lot that's complementary to say about the new S&W wheelguns.

Yes, Ruger triggers are wanting, but healthy dollop of slide-glide, a Wolf spring-kit, and a little stoning works wonders.

[gingerbreadman]

GBM,

The first thing we don't know is what you want to use the gun for.

JB

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Well the laws up north here are pretty strict, "legaly" all i can do is shoot it at the range, NO HUNTING. But if the time so shall came i was face to face with smokey id like to be prepared,

im no stranger to what happenes with rokie shooters jumping in head first, i have shot plenty of high power rifles and i know people who have gotten bad flinches ..

like stated before i can load them down and work my way to shooting full power loads when i feel like it. I think iv settled on .44 mag for the caliber, whats still in question is the S&W or ruger but from what i see so far its a matter of preferance and maybe depends on what deal comes around...

But the big question i still got is. How do I tell if a used gun is good or is just that USED up....???????

thanks

-gbm-

[Wakal]

I get that question in my CHL classes pretty much every time. My boilerplate answer...finish is irrelevant, but mechanical function isn't. I'd rather have a solid "worn" gun than a picture-perfect gun with lousy lockup. Revolvers...check endshake and timing. Semis, lockup and cycling. That said, I don't mind buying a broken Ruger or Taurus, as you can send 'em back to the factory. A guy can get a good deal now and then on a broken gun

Alex

[gingerbreadman]

I get that question in my CHL classes pretty much every time.  My boilerplate answer...finish is irrelevant, but mechanical function isn't.  I'd rather have a solid "worn" gun than a picture-perfect gun with lousy lockup.  Revolvers...check endshake and timing.  Semis, lockup and cycling.  That said, I don't mind buying a broken Ruger or Taurus, as you can send 'em back to the factory.  A guy can get a good deal now and then on a broken gun

Alex

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

ok but how do i check this??? with feeler gauges??? or is it sorta the "take it to a gunsmith" kinda thing....

-gbm-

[rishii]

gbm

this applies to S&W, but it's probably the same for other brands

timing: the cylinder must be locked before the hammer falls, on the smiths, if you look at the bottom of the frame opening, you'll see a slot with a metal arm sticking out of it. if I remember correctly it is called a bolt. as the cylinder rotates, the bolt lock into the cylinder cutout, holding the cylinder in place as the hammer falls and fires the round. timing refers to the sequence that the cylinder locks. to check single action timing, with an unloaded gun, hold the gun next to your ear, and slowing pull the hammer back, before the hammer is in the full cocked position, you should hear a click, that is the bolt locking in the cylinder cut out, try to rotate the cylinder out of the cutout. repeat for all cylinder holes.

if it passes that, next check double action timing, again hold the gun next to your ear, and slowly pull the trigger double action, again you should hear a click before the hammer falls, and try to rotate the cylinder out of the cutout. repeat twice for all cylinders.

if it doesn't pass the timing test, it can be repaired by a smith.

endshake: how much movement the cylinder has front to back, all revolvers have some endshake, but too much is not good, again its repairable by a smith.

other thing to check for, with the hammer cocked in single action, without touching the trigger, push the hammer foward to check if it falls, if the does, pass on that gun

on double action trigger pull should be smooth from start to finish, the smith factory specs. a 3 lbs minimum single action pull.

check if the ejector rod is bent, with the cylinder open, spin the cylinder and look at the end of the rod, it should stay straight, if its bent, again ether pass on that gun or send it to a smith.

on S&W, check the side plate, it is located on the right side of the frame, for pry marks, if you find any, run away from that one.

check the crane, thats the part that connects the cylinder to the frame, that it is straight. just open and close the cylinder a few times, it should lock in smoothly and solidly, if there is reisistance, or if you have to force it. open the cylinder and push the ejector rod back, and look under the star, if there is crud there, if you have a toothbrush, brush out the area, and if there is still reisistance, run away.

and please don't fick open and close the cylinder like they used to show on TV, that is a sure was to bend the crain.

I'm sure there is more, but thats all I can remember right now.

[Rob Boudrie]

Always have the seller remove the grips on a used gun when you inspect it. I've seen used guns (particularly blued ones, but stainless can corrode as well - just more slowly) which were regularly cleaned, wiped down after each use, and appeared pristine. Since the owner never removed the grips for cleaning and wiping with a thin coat of oil, corrosion set in where it could not be seen.

[gingerbreadman]

thank you rishii and Rob

Im printing this out and heading to the show now...

ill let ya know, Another thing that came to mind is theres several gun smiths at the show with booths setup im friends with, I think ill bring one over for a quick looksie...

thanks again

ill report back later

-gbm-

[gingerbreadman]

Well just got back from the show, that perticular gun was sold,

Ill just keep my eye out, I do prefer to buy from a gun shop at least that way I have some place to go if theres problems...

thanks everyone for the advice...

-gbm-

[Ray_Z]

GBM

Before you decide on which 44 you're going to get, take a look at the Taurus Raging Bull. S&W isn' all that it's cracked up to be anymore. If you don't do anything else, do a double action trigger pull on both. I think you'll find the Taurus is as smooth as a babys bottom right out of the box. Accuracy is excellent and felt recoil if way off a 629. Plus, you're not paying for the name. Just the gun.