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short barrel 9mm questions


rustybayonet

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I don't load differently for smaller guns.

Currently reload for my G34 (which has a reduced GSA), that same ammo works in all my smaller Glocks (G17/19/26/43 without issue), same applies to my other 9mm hand guns.

As long as it cycles your Shield, I wouldn't worry about it unless you are looking to duplicate the performance of self defense ammo for practice, or have odd results. I've seen a few instances of loads that don't run well in short barrel pistols, it might change the point of impact, but it's not super common and I've only seen one or two cases of this over the years.

Titegroup (3.65gr) is what I've been using behind a 124gr MG JHP without issue across the platforms referenced above.

~g

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I just started up reloading again, last time was in the 80's. Now with my trusty p85 I can shoot anything and put it on target. The new plastic guns get a little trickier. M&P full size not a problem, but with the sheild it feeds everything but different factory rounds change the groups big time. So now the dillon 550 is up and running I want to look into the science of shooting a short barrel. At 40 feet (longest shot in my house) I'm at a 12 or less group. With the p85 I can make a 3 inch hole, m&p full size it's around 6" group. 1911 colt 5" well we all know their magic, so no problems there.

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looking for loads for my S&W sheild, with a 3.1 inch barrel. What would be a good starting point, heavy round low powder or high powder lite round. Corbon +p work nice but I don't want to run +p too much.

What are you going to use the rounds for? How many are you thinking of running thru your Shield? :cheers:

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I just started up reloading again, last time was in the 80's. Now with my trusty p85 I can shoot anything and put it on target. The new plastic guns get a little trickier. M&P full size not a problem, but with the sheild it feeds everything but different factory rounds change the groups big time. So now the dillon 550 is up and running I want to look into the science of shooting a short barrel. At 40 feet (longest shot in my house) I'm at a 12 or less group. With the p85 I can make a 3 inch hole, m&p full size it's around 6" group. 1911 colt 5" well we all know their magic, so no problems there.

The first time I read that I thought you were actually shooting inside your house :)

If you are shooting at 40 feet you should be able to get some <3" groups with just about any load. If you are getting 12" groups then there is something wrong with your reloads, your gun, or your technique.

Check your sights and see if they are loose. Then check your barrel to make sure it locks up ok.

Try a box of factory ammo and see if your groups improve.

Honestly though, I'm betting you just need to learn how to shoot the little gun better.

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The big groups were with factory rounds, blazers I think. Other factory rounds give better results. I have not reloaded any rounds for a short barrel. I was wondering what route to go when loading for a short barrel. The longer the barrel is the more spin you get and the more acurate you will be hence snipers use long barrels. With a short barrel there is less bullet/barrel time, so acuracy is less than with a longer barrel. Question is: should the round be heavy and slow or light and fast?

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I don't agree that longer barrels give more accurate shots. I also don't think ballistics play that large of a role at 13 yards. Any bullet should give you acceptable groups at 13 yards if loaded properly without excess crimp, etc.

If you are getting a 12" group at 13 yards, that is more than using the wrong choice in bullet weight.

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At normal handgun distances I don't think there's much, if any, of a difference in mechanical accuracy just from a longer barrel. For example, I've heard Glock has said their most mechanically accurate gun is the G30. Smaller guns are however usually harder to shoot accurately.

I don't have a Shield, but my normal 147gr minor pf reloads work fine in my Glock 43. I haven't chronoed them; they're quite possibly sub-minor, but I'm not competing with the G43. I've also shot 115gr and 124gr through my G43 and everything I've shot has had good accuracy...as long as I do my part; the G43 is certainly harder to shoot than my G34.

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I'm sorry for getting to technical for you guys. Different factory ammo gives different results. Every firearm, even the same model, will be different. This is due to the machinery that builds them. Compation shooters know this fact and tweek there loads for their firearm to get better results. If I shoot the corbon +p 115 the gun shoots fine. So yes I can hit you and the gun does what it needs to do. This is my carry round but +p is not a good round to shoot every day in your firearm. And for someone to say barrel is not a factor I already know you don't have a clue what your talking about. With a 5" barrel I can put 15 rounds within 3" group in seconds. There is a science to getting the right load, not just copying data.

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Do you make pf with 3.65gr of TG?

Just happened to have this data from last month. Same load in G34vsG26. Yes it makes minor pf, and runs the G34 reliably with reduced weight spring. The load shot very well in both firearm. At 25 feet both guns will shoot a 2 inch group or less (if I do my part). Saw a short barreled .45 shoot four inches low at 25' with one brand of ammo, then shoot POA/POI with different ammo, that said.... both shot similar size groups.... just saying.

Having classified SSP/BUG SS with both guns, a 20 second delta on IDPA times, with the G34 getting the nod.

G34vG26loaddata.jpg

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I actually just commented on your post in the general section before I saw this post so take it with a grain of salt. That being said I have a 9mm shield and it seems to like the 124 gr HPRN from xtreme. Doesn't care so much for the normal plate bullet in that weight and profile though and I have absolutely no idea why. Unfortunately, that probably won't be a good self defense load for ya. I load with hp 38 and really like the results as do several of my friends. I would be happy to give you the specs if you PM me. And if you go that route hp 38 can be found online pretty easy these days and if you don't like the powder, I have absolutely no doubt that you could sell the rest and get your money back. Seems to be everyone's favorite powder for everything pistol.

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Are you getting decent accuracy with any round in the shield? It could be the gun has very loose tolerances and it will never be accurate. When the gun is "locked up" can you move the barrel or slide ?

I would experiment with bullets in the 115 to 124 area and a faster powder if the gun seems to have acceptable accuracy.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Do be careful though. I read on Starlines website that the Shield doesn't have a fully supported chamber, and that Starline recommends their +P brass in Shields.

https://www.starlinebrass.com/order-online/caliber.cfm/caliber/9MM/

Hmm, I think you are mixed up a bit on this one. You are correct that Starline does not recommend their brass for use in the S&W Shield "WITH NEAR-MAX OR +P LOADS, DUE TO POORLY SUPPORTED CHAMBER CONDITION". But, Starline's 9mm +P brass is identical to their standard 9mm brass with a different headstamp and they still don't recommend it for use in the S&W Shield for the same reason already noted.

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Perhaps partially so. What they're telling you is that the Shield has an unsupported chamber, and that pressures need to be kept moderate.

Is that better?

Yep, they don't recommend their brass, whether their standard 9mm headstamp or their +P 9mm headstamp for use in a Shield with near max or +P loads.

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