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Reloads don't chamber in 625


Alaskan454
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Been shooting a 625JM since about 2009. The 625 has tighter chambers than the 1911 guns I have. I have a gauge so I gauged them, the ones that fail I shot in my semis, the others for the revolver. The problem is the bulge at the base of the bullet. This makes a big difference. Last year I bought the Lee die that taper crimps and resizes the bulge. The Lee die seems to work altho some still won't pass the gauge they still seem to work in the revolver. I shoot lead, .452 to .453 diameter. If I use Remington brass I have no problems, It must be thinner than the others, Fed. seems to be the thickest, my Rem and Fed brass is old stuff, new stuff may be different.

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The 625 JM cylinder needs reamed. Seen more than a few like that. (snipped)

^^This^^

Many 625 chambers are undersize by SAAMI specs. But the guns work fine with factory ammo because jacketed bullets are generally .001 or .002 smaller than lead bullets for the ACP cartridge.

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  • 4 years later...

I have had this problem with range brass. If it has been fired by a Glock, with their unsupported chamber, then lots of times the brass will have the Glock bulge at the base of the brass. Get a lee bulge buster and run all your 45 acp brass through it. It will get rid of most, but not all of this problem.

Edited by Ellioga
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  • 4 weeks later...

I'm having this problem as well. A Dillon 45ACP gauge shows some rounds just not quite seating all the way; they extrude less than the thickness of the rim itself.

 

It happens with Winchester used brass (98% of which I'm sure has never been in a Glock barrel), but not unfired Starline brass.

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  • 2 months later...

The solution to chambering problems is to determine the cause:

Take the barrel out of the gun (or, open the cylinder of the revolver). Drop rounds in until you find one that won't chamber. Take that round and "paint" the bullet and case black with Magic Marker or other marker. Drop round in chamber (or gage or cylinder chamber) and rotate it back-and-forth a few times.

Remove and inspect the round:

1) Scratches in the ink on bullet--COL is too long (not a revolver issue)

2) Scratches in the ink on edge of the case mouth--insufficient crimp

3) Scratches in the ink just below the case mouth--too much crimp, you're crushing the case

4) Scratches in the ink on case at base of bullet--bullet seated crooked due to insufficient case expansion (not case mouth flare) or improper seating stem fit

5) Scratches in the ink on case just above extractor groove--case bulge not removed during sizing. May need a bulge buster.

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