benos Posted March 17, 2005 Share Posted March 17, 2005 Twenty eight years ago I bought a Maytag washer, which I still have not spent one penny on. (It's still in my (vacant) place in Apache Junction.) So when my washer broke down in the house I moved into a couple years ago, I stopped what I was doing, drove down to the Maytag store and bought a new washer. And dryer as well, as the dryer that came with the house took about three hours to dry a load. So it's been a year and three months... I'm doing a load of laundry, I go out to check on it and guess what? It's locked up, and the laundry room smells like there's been a fire. I call up Maytag, and guess what? Labor is warrantied for one year, and parts for two. So now I get to pay about 150 bucks in labor to fix it because a seal leaked and screwed up the pump which burned up the belt. I guess the days of the Maytag repariman sitting around bored till ol age are over. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobert1 Posted March 17, 2005 Share Posted March 17, 2005 Well Brian I wish I lived closer. That's the kind of work I do. I grew up in Huber Hts, Just down the road from where you grew up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Putty Posted March 17, 2005 Share Posted March 17, 2005 Me and my wife had a pair of ancient Maytags that were rock solid and quiet. Thought we were movin' on up to the Eastside with new Kenmores and sold the Maytags. Big mistake. New Kenmores were glitchy, bangy, and loud. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricW Posted March 17, 2005 Share Posted March 17, 2005 Brian, My last washer was like $330 (Whirlpool). Why not just get a new one (not a maytag) and let Dillon use the old for mini-gun practice? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h4444 Posted March 17, 2005 Share Posted March 17, 2005 That sucks.... I'm keeping my fingers crosssed, we're in the process of building a new house and sometime next week we'll be buying a whole house full of things to break,,,,I mean appliances...... H4444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TriggerT Posted March 17, 2005 Share Posted March 17, 2005 I put a LARGE load in out washer a few weeks ago, and the washer started to have the same problem. Smelled like burning rubber. I took about a third of the load out, and restarted the maching, no problems since. Don't know if that is what happened to yours, but I guess the thing isn't as heavy duty as I thought. Sounds like you just burned out a belt. Sucks that it costs that much to have it repaired. I think for that kind of money I would do it myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bulm540 Posted March 17, 2005 Share Posted March 17, 2005 Ha d a similar experience with maytag, , started leaking due to broken seal. Good thing it was under warranty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XRe Posted March 17, 2005 Share Posted March 17, 2005 Most appliances and home electronics are built like crap, these days. We bought a Whirlpool about 4 years ago. About a year and a half into it, it started doing all kinds of nasty stuff. We had purchased the Sears service agreement - usually I don't buy those things, but .... it came in handy. They replaced the washer under the agreement (after a large amount of prodding). Instead of getting a new one of the same kind, they allowed us a credit for the purchase price. We got a front loading.... Maytag. Haven't had a problem w/ it, yet.... (knocks on head). It gets stuff *clean*, is quiet, etc.... To paraphrase Flex.... I spent more on my washing machine than I did on my new pistol.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carinab Posted March 17, 2005 Share Posted March 17, 2005 As someone who spends an unfortunate amount of time doing laundry instead of dry firing, I rely on having a working washer/dryer. I go to the closest "outlet" shop when I need to buy. The ones that are new but cosmetically damaged are a huge bargain (sometimes as much as half off) and you can generally brow beat them into an extended service warranty for free. I'm not serving dinner on it so what do I care if it's dented or scratched. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tightloop Posted March 17, 2005 Share Posted March 17, 2005 Bummer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merlin Orr Posted March 17, 2005 Share Posted March 17, 2005 Brian,My last washer was like $330 (Whirlpool). Why not just get a new one (not a maytag) and let Dillon use the old for mini-gun practice? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Call the repair guys and have them come down and fix the machine at - Dillon's Range. Have the machine downrange with the mini gun set up and ready......Check facial expressions of repair guys... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9x23 Posted March 17, 2005 Share Posted March 17, 2005 Some repair guys shoot back. They have to travel in some rough neighborhoods. Brian,My last washer was like $330 (Whirlpool). Why not just get a new one (not a maytag) and let Dillon use the old for mini-gun practice? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Call the repair guys and have them come down and fix the machine at - Dillon's Range. Have the machine downrange with the mini gun set up and ready......Check facial expressions of repair guys... <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shred Posted March 17, 2005 Share Posted March 17, 2005 Probably burnt a belt and/or the gearbox. Need a grinder/buffer? Washing machine motors are great for that and never seem to be the part that breaks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricW Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 I know this won't help Brian, but for anybody with a Whirlpool/Kitchenaid/Hotpoint washing machine, this will definitely save them some bucks: My washing machine croaked yesterday. I thought it was a belt too, but this one has a gearbox with a plastic/rubber coupling that connects the motor and the gearbox. The short story is that the plastic coupler is a POS. The part never, ever should have been made from plastic and especially not the way it was designed. (/Ex-Plastics Engineer Mode) The failure is so common that the parts lady at the appliance store knew what I had in the baggy 20 feet before I reached the counter. She went in the back to get the coupler before I could even open my mouth. All you need to do to get to the motor/gearbox is tip up the washing machine. No need to remove any panels. To pop the motor off, you remove a set screw that holds each of two metal straps around the motor. Removing the broken coupler is obvious. Replacing it is not so obvious. You'll need to trim inside the coupler so that it is a firm press-on fit, but not so firm you have to pound on it, or it will promptly split. Anyway, the part is $25, and I'm sure that you can't have a repairman show up for under $150-$200. I wonder just how many people are junking 5 to 7 year old washing machines because of this BS designed obsolesence. Designing geartrains like this is so cynical it ought to be illegal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9x23 Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 That's called a "drive coupling". They also make a heavy duty version of it. It's a special part number. That fits the Whirlpool/Kenmore washer (plus some other brands special models). btw Eric, the transmission has plastic gears inside too. Of course most of the other manufactures use plastic gears in the tranny's also. I know this won't help Brian, but for anybody with a Whirlpool/Kitchenaid/Hotpoint washing machine, this will definitely save them some bucks:My washing machine croaked yesterday. I thought it was a belt too, but this one has a gearbox with a plastic/rubber coupling that connects the motor and the gearbox. The short story is that the plastic coupler is a POS. The part never, ever should have been made from plastic and especially not the way it was designed. (/Ex-Plastics Engineer Mode) The failure is so common that the parts lady at the appliance store knew what I had in the baggy 20 feet before I reached the counter. She went in the back to get the coupler before I could even open my mouth. All you need to do to get to the motor/gearbox is tip up the washing machine. No need to remove any panels. To pop the motor off, you remove a set screw that holds each of two metal straps around the motor. Removing the broken coupler is obvious. Replacing it is not so obvious. You'll need to trim inside the coupler so that it is a firm press-on fit, but not so firm you have to pound on it, or it will promptly split. Anyway, the part is $25, and I'm sure that you can't have a repairman show up for under $150-$200. I wonder just how many people are junking 5 to 7 year old washing machines because of this BS designed obsolesence. Designing geartrains like this is so cynical it ought to be illegal. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobert1 Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 Trimming the coupler holes is a mistake. You must use a hammer and tap both ends on to insure the tightest possible fit to the motor and the gearcase. The smallest bit of a gap and when the motor reverses itself it will eventually just round out one half of the coupler. This comes from 31 years as a Factory Whirlpool Tech. By the way... I don't engineer them, I just fix them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricW Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 btw Eric, the transmission has plastic gears inside too. Of course most of the other manufactures use plastic gears in the tranny's also. That's somewhat morally offensive, but not technically as bad. Plastic gears generally have a thicker web and are not glass-filled. Plastic gears generally give excellent service life. The drive coupling is a different story altogether. One of the first rules of plastics engineering is to never put a high-modulus material under perpetual strain. It always breaks sooner or later. Don't ask me what mechanical engineers learn in skool, but it doesn't appear to be engineering. I've seen this crap so many times it just makes me want to cry. Consumer Reports should quit reporting on what button does what and start ripping these junk piles apart and publishing photographs. I predict lynch mobs will form shortly thereafter. Also, according to my sources, a $350 Whirlpool has exactly the same drive train as a $750 Kitchenaid. You are not getting more by paying more - only more buttons and gadgets to break. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricW Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 Trimming the coupler holes is a mistake. You must use a hammer and tap both ends on to insure the tightest possible fit to the motor and the gearcase. The smallest bit of a gap and when the motor reverses itself it will eventually just round out one half of the coupler. This comes from 31 years as a Factory Whirlpool Tech. By the way... I don't engineer them, I just fix them. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Bobert, these were way too tight. I split one doing exactly that. The problem with glass-filled parts is that they erode the tooling so that the 100,000th part is substantially larger than part numero uno. I'm going to do a tiny bit of trimming on the next one and I'm sure it will be fine. (I like to live dangerously. ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lneel Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 Spent $1700 on a Maytag Neptune Washer and Dryer about 6 years ago. Washer has had 3 circuit boards replaced, one at my full expense of $350 and a door latch and entire top replaced. About 6 months ago it quit (for the last d@mn) time. Some sensor sh!t out at they wanted $100 for it. Well I put that POS out on the curb and bought a $400 Whirlpool. Been working like a champ. Lee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobert1 Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 It is very difficult to put them straight on and not crack one if you don't remove the cabinet. Some days I put 2 or 3 on at different homes. They are a fast selling item. Why don't you pre-order (because nobody stocks) the commercial coupler and have it ready. Part # is 3978849. You are correct. The top loading Roper, Whirlpool and Kitchen Aid all use the same gearcase, coupler and usually 2 speed motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricW Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 Thanks bobert. Consider it done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geezer-lock Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 All of the high end devices mentioned here have chips that replaced mechanical timers and switch gear. All of them require a good ground, something that may not exist in an old house or may be incorrectly fitted in a new house. If your washer or dryer is cooking boards, have an electrician take a look at the circuit. geezer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cking Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 You guys are great, good info, I always fix my own appliances. I've saved this info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benos Posted March 31, 2005 Author Share Posted March 31, 2005 Thanks for the helpful advice everyone! I've been so busy lately it just wasn't worth thinking about any more. Since at least the parts were under warranty, I just had them fix it. But it is sad that my "esteem factor" for one more manufacturer has gone down the drain. I guess next time it's Whirlpool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benos Posted March 23, 2006 Author Share Posted March 23, 2006 Big surprise - I think my piece of crap Maytag's on the fritz again. Here's the symptom's - start a load, it fills up and then just sets there. At this point I think it's the timer... but if I turn the water level dial all the way to the way clockwise to "reset," then it starts to wash. It continues to wash till its done, then stops at the beginning of rinse and just sets there idle again. Now, if I switch the "extra rinse dial" to "extra rinse" then back again, the tank drains and it spins out and it finishes okay. Weird. It's like there's some sort of "Brain" that's connecting the "water level," the "extra rinse," and the "timer" dials. be Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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