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1050 and missed primers


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Zero.

Things to check:

1. Make sure that the rubber tube on the back of the primer slide bar is undamaged and hasn't elongated at all which will create a little drag.

2. Make sure that the primer slide bar is going back far enough for the primer to drop into it. There is a stop held in with an allen screw that you can make adjustments with.

3. Check the primer tube's plastic funnel tip for wear/damage.

4. Pull the primer tube and push a q-tip through it with the plastic rod. It'll probably come out a little dirty and that can cause a little drag.

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I have heard mention of the "rubber tube" you referenced in several threads. I have a fairly new (3 months) super 1050 and I don't have the rubber tube. There is a brass bushing on the post in the back of the primer slide and I'm wondering of the rubber tube has been replaced by that bushing? I have looked all over the primer assembly and can't find a rubber tube anywhere.

Thanks

rch

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I have heard mention of the "rubber tube" you referenced in several threads. I have a fairly new (3 months) super 1050 and I don't have the rubber tube. There is a brass bushing on the post in the back of the primer slide and I'm wondering of the rubber tube has been replaced by that bushing? I have looked all over the primer assembly and can't find a rubber tube anywhere.

Thanks

rch

You have the newer style primer slider. The older style had rubber tubing instead of the bronze bearing.

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I have heard mention of the "rubber tube" you referenced in several threads. I have a fairly new (3 months) super 1050 and I don't have the rubber tube. There is a brass bushing on the post in the back of the primer slide and I'm wondering of the rubber tube has been replaced by that bushing? I have looked all over the primer assembly and can't find a rubber tube anywhere.

My newest 1050 is about 1.5 years old and it came with the rubber tube. I like the idea of the brass bushing, though. I'll ask about getting a few with my next dillon order.

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I have a newer 1050 with the brass bushing. When I can cranking ammo to fast in my opinion I seem to miss some primers. My opinion of to fast is 1 bullet per second maybe faster. At those speeds I will some primers. A couple of weekends back I loaded 3000 9mm, while gauging them I found 5 bullets without primers. Underneath the press I found 5 crushed primers. All Federal primers.

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For loading handgun cartridges, a recommended operating speed of about one cycle in 3 seconds gets you 1200 rounds per hour. For rifle cartridges, this needs to slow to about one cycle in 4 seconds.

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My problem with this was an incorrectly set up swaging station.

A cut-away case (use a dremel or even a hacksaw) makes this easier - remove half of the case head of a piece of brass with a crimped primer pocket.

Adjust the swage backup rod until it is eased fully in the case.

Adjust the swage depth until the primp is removed and there is enough bevel to allow easier and more consistent primer insertion.

Test a few crimped cases. This will help with ALL cases, not just crimped cases.

The last 2 steps are easier with a cut-away case.

If not already, adjust the plastic piece at the primer seating station so that there is enough space to allow the case to center itself over the primer/primer ram.

Getting the swaging right is what [finally] allowed me to load 1000 x 9mm in 30 minutes...not that I recommend running at this speed but it is possible with a properly adjusted 1050.

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I have heard mention of the "rubber tube" you referenced in several threads. I have a fairly new (3 months) super 1050 and I don't have the rubber tube. There is a brass bushing on the post in the back of the primer slide and I'm wondering of the rubber tube has been replaced by that bushing? I have looked all over the primer assembly and can't find a rubber tube anywhere.

Thanks

rch

When did you get your 1050? Mine is only a few months old and I have the rubber piece. I must have gotten one of the last ones.
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My problem with this was an incorrectly set up swaging station.

A cut-away case (use a dremel or even a hacksaw) makes this easier - remove half of the case head of a piece of brass with a crimped primer pocket.

Adjust the swage backup rod until it is eased fully in the case.

Adjust the swage depth until the primp is removed and there is enough bevel to allow easier and more consistent primer insertion.

Test a few crimped cases. This will help with ALL cases, not just crimped cases.

The last 2 steps are easier with a cut-away case.

If not already, adjust the plastic piece at the primer seating station so that there is enough space to allow the case to center itself over the primer/primer ram.

Getting the swaging right is what [finally] allowed me to load 1000 x 9mm in 30 minutes...not that I recommend running at this speed but it is possible with a properly adjusted 1050.

I have gone over most everything mentioned from the rubber piece to the sliding freely and such. I had initially did the case cut in half to get it set up initially but I believe I will go back and revisit this area again. Thanks.
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I am having this same issue with the 1050 and 38 supercomp. I am getting @ 10 crushed primers per 100 rounds lately. Very frustrating and very messy. Rubber sleeve is there and in great shape and the 1/2 moon is positioned correctly. It is not specific to any one brand of primers either, does it with them all. Help/suggestions please. Weird thing is it'll run 3-5 hundred just fine, then it suddenly starts doing this

Edited by lvipscshooter
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Have you tried this:

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=775&p=47424

Benos:

Posted 08 August 2002 - 08:10 PM

I'm guessing Dillon should have covered this, but just in case... I remember The Greatest Ever, Arnt Mhyre, telling me about a very thin shim that sometimes needs to be installed between the "cylinder shaped bushing with a flat ring around it that stops the rearward movement of the primer slide," and the part that it bolts to. (Sorry, I'm not near my machine at the moment.) This aligns the position of the hole in the slide to the hole in the tube, perfectly, when the slide is at rest. Does your machine have this shim? It may only be a few-thousandths thick.
To test to see if the shim is needed, (meaning if the slide hole aligns perfectly with the tube when it's in its rearward position), drop a single primer down the tube and then hand cycle the slide and and see if the primer comes out perfectly in the slide - every time. Do this test 20 or more times. If it doesn't drop in the slide perfectly every time, you will have problems.
be
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  • 1 month later...

my press seems to be effected by this when the air temp is lower and it is maddening having a 10-20 our of hundred primers falling on the bench.

Mine has the rubber tube thingy. I have done several full teardown cleanings of the press in two years and most times that little piece of rubber had dissappeared but it did not seem to effect function.

If there is a brass or bronze part I can get from dillon to fix this?

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If you remove the rubber tube and drive out the roll pin from the primer slide, replace it with two of these bearings from McMaster Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/121/1182/=z617e0) on a short piece of this rod from McMaster Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/121/3729/=z618su), and lightly stake both ends, you've got a really good replacement for the rubber sleeve.

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For 3 months after my 1050s arrival I had multiple problems with primers. I removed the rubber tube from the primer slide and readjusted the primer system. No problems since then in 8 or 9 years. Later I got a large primer conversion for 308, removed the rubber tube on the large primer slide, no problems...

Remove the rubber tube...

jmho

jj

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I had some replacement plastic fuel line from a weedwhacker laying around. I used a small piece to replace the rubber and no failures yet. I load many 1000's but not many 10's of thousands of rounds.

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I replaced the primer slide that uses the rubber tube with the new primer slide from Dillon with the brass bushing. Expensive, but worth it IMHO. Have not had a missed one since

Do you happen to have a part number? I have heard of this new slide, and haven't been able to find it.

I did a couple weeks ago put some new vacuum hose on, that seemed to help. Between that and adjusting everything again it seem to be running better. But I am about to switch over to 5.56 for a while and hope i don't run in to problems again.

Thanks!

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