Looking at Lee Classic Turret for first press

[Clipper]

I started reloading in the mid 80's on a RockChucker single stage. I only loaded one caliber, .357 mag. Eventually, I upgraded my arsenal, got a couple of 9mm and a couple of .45's so single stage would not hack it! I bought a Lee Classic Turret, looked at the priming system and tossed in the trash. I de-prime and resize on the RCBS, hand prime with a couple of Lee hand primers and a RCBS hand primer in my TV time. The RCBS powder dispenser that I had with the single stage works well with the turret, I load 50 rounds at a time, check the powder level in each case with a flashlight and use the Lee dies to expand, seat and crimp, using only 3 holes in the turret. It's slow, and positive, never a miss or a mess. Last year, my kids gifted me a new Dillon 550B, I didn't need it, still don't really need it, but I use it now on .45 acp, .38/.357, 40s&w and still load 9 mm, .380 and .223 on the turret. I really like the Lee turret, it is accurate, inexpensive and reliable.. I have made a few goofs in the learning curve with the 550, hopefully, I am past that now.

Edited August 10, 2015 by Clipper

[tcoz]

sustratiotes

That's an excellent video and explains the differences in a nice concise manner. I believe the lever/hinge system on the Classic is also constructed to give more leverage which comes in handy when sizing large bottleneck rifle cases. I'd like to suggest that you post it on the Amazon page for each of the presses since a lot of people purchase their Lee reloading equipment on Amazon. Thanks for your efforts.

Edited August 10, 2015 by tcoz

[BeerBaron]

Cost saving is by far the smallest benefit of reloafing for a competitive shooter.

The benefits are:

Consistent supply (no worry about a certain ammo being out of stock once you stock up on components)

Ammo tuned to you gun

Ammo tuned to the particular comp you shoot

Ammo tuned to your preference

Control over quality

Think of a dillon 650 as parking money in a term deposit. Sure it costs say $800 now for one with a case feeder. It'll hold most of that value. No doubt prices go up. Chances are you can sell it in 10 years time for what you paid for it. Or possibly even more.

[StraightSh00ter]

Yeah, for the most part I understand that - when I made the decision to start reloading it was based on fruitless trips to Wally World with their fluctuating ammo prices, and the quality of ammo I'd be buying at $10.99/box ($210/case). Truthfully I've been happy with the Perfecta but maybe I just don't know any better. It's made by Fiocchi so I just bought a case of Fiocchi proper for the same price. Anyway I am trying to make some progress on student loan debt so I'm buying everything with cash. I will have the 650 one day, but not likely before next year's tax return.

I found an OK deal on powder and primers at the local range, so I've got that and the little bit of brass I've picked up. I'll get the rest of what I need to get started over the next day or two.

Edited August 11, 2015 by StraightSh00ter

[Sarge]

Next match I'll bring you a box of my minor ammo with 124's to try

[StraightSh00ter]

Next match I'll bring you a box of my minor ammo with 124's to try

Thanks

(this was in response to a post I changed - i was curious about coated bullets, cannelures, and roll crimping with the Lee dies. I see that not all coated bullets have the cannelures for 9mm though)

[tcoz]

The Lee seating die has a built in crimp ring which if you use it and don't dial it out will give a roll crimp. The factory crimp die gives a taper crimp and when you use it be sure to dial out the roll crimp in the seating die. If you're going to roll crimp, you need a cannelure. I don't know about roll crimping coated bullets. I seem to remember reading somewhere that they shouldn't be roll crimped because it'll cut into the coating but you'll have to research it to be sure. I'm sure the companies that sell coated bullets will have the info you need on their websites.

[StraightSh00ter]

Thanks. I seem to not want to mess with cannelures and roll crimps as I'm starting out.

[tcoz]

Taper crimp can be used with or without cannelure.

[RDA]

Next match I'll bring you a box of my minor ammo with 124's to try

Thanks

(this was in response to a post I changed - i was curious about coated bullets, cannelures, and roll crimping with the Lee dies. I see that not all coated bullets have the cannelures for 9mm though)

I think you are confusing cannelures with wax/lube grooves. Lead bullets that are coated (hi-tek, polymer, powdercoat) don't need the grooves.

Unless you are shooting a revolver, you really don't need to crimp, simply remove the bell. Sarge will help you with all of this I am certain.

[StraightSh00ter]

This thing:

[Sarge]

Next match I'll bring you a box of my minor ammo with 124's to try

Thanks

(this was in response to a post I changed - i was curious about coated bullets, cannelures, and roll crimping with the Lee dies. I see that not all coated bullets have the cannelures for 9mm though)

I think you are confusing cannelures with wax/lube grooves. Lead bullets that are coated (hi-tek, polymer, powdercoat) don't need the grooves.

Unless you are shooting a revolver, you really don't need to crimp, simply remove the bell. Sarge will help you with all of this I am certain.

Indeed I will. Where/when did roll crimping come into the picture?

[Sarge]

This thing:

Dude, that's a lube groove. A plain lead bullet would have lube in there but since it's coated no lube is there. If you look at different makes and models of coated bullets you will see some have the groove and some do not.

[vixty]

For some reason no matter how much I unscrew my lee bullet seater it will still put a slight roll crimp on my case which pretty much takes away the need for my FCD. Does anyone know how to make it stop putting the slight roll crimp. I've pretty much backed the die out all the way and have the bullet seating adjustment all the way down.

[Southpaw]

For some reason no matter how much I unscrew my lee bullet seater it will still put a slight roll crimp on my case which pretty much takes away the need for my FCD. Does anyone know how to make it stop putting the slight roll crimp. I've pretty much backed the die out all the way and have the bullet seating adjustment all the way down.

I noticed this too. I have mine backed out pretty far and it's still giving a bit of a crimp, but not enough to completely remove the bell. I was expanding to .384" and the seating die would do a slight crimp to .382". Still need the FCD. I don't think it's really an issue though?

[vixty]

I've been wanting a .378 crimp on my brass but its coming out of the seating die at .374

[tcoz]

I'm just speculating here but I think it's possible that what you're calling a crimp isn't a crimp at all. After seating the bullet, the die might just be slightly closing the flare, not necessarily be design but maybe just in its normal operation. If that die was actually putting on a crimp, you'd be able to recognize it. Roll crimps are very distinguishable.

Also, with the FCD it isn't necessary to actually crimp the bullet in as much as just removing the flare. Don't overdo it. The setup instructions for the FCD give you a starting point. That will give you a medium taper (crimp). Start there and it's often enough to keep the bullet from seating itself deeper during the chambering process which is what you're trying to prevent. With 9mm & 45acp using plated bullets, I found that dialing it out about 1/3 from that point was all I needed. Too much crimp not only can be dangerous if you at or near max loads but also can negatively affect accuracy.

[vixty]

currently I'm not even using my FCD since the seating die is already removing the flare to .374. I guess I will have to use a different die if I want to get a .378 case diameter.

[BeerBaron]

Sounds like you're on the right track. The lee ct will be a great first press.

Yes that's a lube groove. It's redundant in coated bullets but still there as most moulds were made back when they were making plain hard cast lead that needed to be lubed to prevent leading.

You do not crimp into that groove. Basically only factory ammo use canulures. 99% of the bullets you but for reloading won't have a canulure.

[StraightSh00ter]

I guess I should have read the lead bullet section

[Tuflehundon]

So which is better for the beginner? Lee Classic Turret or the Lee Loadmaster progressive? I'm looking to getting into reloading as well. Most for lower volume .223 match ammo.

[tcoz]

So which is better for the beginner? Lee Classic Turret or the Lee Loadmaster progressive? I'm looking to getting into reloading as well. Most for lower volume .223 match ammo.

If you read this thread from the beginning I think you'll see that a lot of people here favor the LCT. If it's between that and the Loadmaster, for a beginner and especially loading .223 it's no contest. The Classic Turret is the best.

[Tuflehundon]

So which is better for the beginner? Lee Classic Turret or the Lee Loadmaster progressive? I'm looking to getting into reloading as well. Most for lower volume .223 match ammo.

If you read this thread from the beginning I think you'll see that a lot of people here favor the LCT. If it's between that and the Loadmaster, for a beginner and especially loading .223 it's no contest. The Classic Turret is the best.

It was tough to get a read on it. Most recommending the Lee Turret, but many saying progressive. Thanks for the reply.

[firewood]

Not very many on this forum, when they refer to a progressive press are talking about a LEE progressive. The Classic Turret press by LEE is a workhorse that is easy to use. The Loadmaster is the opposite.

But for a beginner just get the classic turret. If you find that you are up to a challenge, by that time you should have all of the other goodies needed to handload plus some experience. If you think you are up to the challenge of the Loadmaster, just buy the loadmaster it's around $160.00 less the dies and powder drop.

Edited August 18, 2015 by firewood

[tcoz]

Firewood, that's very true. I read an awful lot of reloading forums and I've seen very few positive reviews of the Loadmaster. I don't have any experience with progressive presses because I've never seen the need to switch from my classic Turret, but if I did, the Loadmaster wouldn't be my choice.