BoyGlock Posted September 28, 2015 Share Posted September 28, 2015 So far the engine oils Ive used have one thing in common. After 100 rnds more or less, most of the lubes are NOT on the areas they were applied on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bountyhunter Posted September 28, 2015 Share Posted September 28, 2015 So far the engine oils Ive used have one thing in common. After 100 rnds more or less, most of the lubes are NOT on the areas they were applied on. Gravity always wins......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoyGlock Posted September 29, 2015 Share Posted September 29, 2015 So far the engine oils Ive used have one thing in common. After 100 rnds more or less, most of the lubes are NOT on the areas they were applied on.Gravity always wins......... There also ones that defy gravity. Gun Butter is one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nibbles Posted October 5, 2015 Share Posted October 5, 2015 I've recently started using high viscosity synthetic oil with syncolon (ptfe) from Super Lube, and so far I've been very impressed with it. All my guns ran fine on motor oil and atf before, but this seems to stay better and the guns feel a bit smoother when racking manually. The biggest pluses for me though is non-staining and USDA/NSF listed H-1 for incidental food contact. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chills1994 Posted October 5, 2015 Share Posted October 5, 2015 I've recently started using high viscosity synthetic oil with syncolon (ptfe) from Super Lube, and so far I've been very impressed with it. All my guns ran fine on motor oil and atf before, but this seems to stay better and the guns feel a bit smoother when racking manually. The biggest pluses for me though is non-staining and USDA/NSF listed H-1 for incidental food contact. In that case about food contact, make sure it is all certified Kosher/Pareve by the Chicago rabbinical council. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nibbles Posted October 5, 2015 Share Posted October 5, 2015 I guess that's a joke, right? Sorry, I'm not a native English speaker. I'm not Jewish either, so I'm not really worried about my gun oil being Kosher or not. While I won't use my gun to make sandwiches, I assume the fact that it's ok for occasional food contact means it's not one of the most toxic substances around, and that's always appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Solvability Posted October 5, 2015 Share Posted October 5, 2015 I have recently switched to Canola oil and ATF - smells pretty good and cleans carbon well. I would not eat it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hi-Power Jack Posted October 5, 2015 Share Posted October 5, 2015 Slide Glide .... :bow: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Can Posted October 6, 2015 Share Posted October 6, 2015 I'm a commercial pilot, so I use airplane oil AeroShell it's what all the race pilots use. So it should be good for race guns? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chills1994 Posted October 8, 2015 Share Posted October 8, 2015 I guess that's a joke, right? Sorry, I'm not a native English speaker. I'm not Jewish either, so I'm not really worried about my gun oil being Kosher or not. While I won't use my gun to make sandwiches, I assume the fact that it's ok for occasional food contact means it's not one of the most toxic substances around, and that's always appreciated. Yeah, it is a joke. At my work, we use a chemical to treat water. Its safety sheet is attached to the side of the tank. The chemical goes by a trade name, but if I recall correctly, it was just sodium hydroxide, also known as lye. I started reading the bottom of the safety sheet and it said it was Kosher and approved by the Chicago Rabbinical Council. That gave me a good laugh. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chills1994 Posted October 8, 2015 Share Posted October 8, 2015 I have used Lucas Oil's Red-n-Tacky automotive grease on a few of my slides. The guns ran just fine. What was interesting was the stringy or web like nature of the grease. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nibbles Posted October 8, 2015 Share Posted October 8, 2015 Ok, that's pretty funny. Kosher lye. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MissionaryMike Posted October 8, 2015 Share Posted October 8, 2015 I recommend a synthetic motor oil as none of the people selling "gun lubricants" have a refinery - except Lucas - or the lubrication specialists like the oil companies. I use Shell Rotella T - Full Synth and a lot of people use Mobil 1. I like the Shell better because it is a diesel lube and has zinc in it which the car lubes have mostly gone away from or reduced the amount. I'm sure most of the people/companies selling gun lube get it in drums and repackage it or buy it already prepackaged from an oil supplier. I just read that Shell revised their t6 formula and reduced their zinc levels as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve RA Posted October 8, 2015 Share Posted October 8, 2015 Well, back to the drawing board. Although I've got two quarts which should last for the next 75 years or so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Can Posted October 8, 2015 Share Posted October 8, 2015 i think it's important to note when referring to oil, the zinc that is referred to is not the element zinc, but rather: zinc dialkyldithiophosphate, a compound invented by Castrol for use in mineral-based oils or zinc di-thiophosphate (ZDTP) which is normally used in synthetic oils. Both have been used as an anti-wear ingredient in engine oil for many years. The zinc and phosphorus ingredients appear to be most effective when they are used together. ZDDP/ZDTP is one of many additives that are put into conventional motor oil to improve its lubrication qualities. Other ingredients such as boron and molybdenum are also added as lubricant enhancers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
choppe Posted October 9, 2015 Share Posted October 9, 2015 I've always clean/scrubed with a gun carbon cleaner like M-pro7. I'll scrub the barrel with this to remove any fouling. If there is bad copper fouling i'll uses a copper remover like Butches. After everything is all clean and shiny, re-apply some Breakfree CLP. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MissionaryMike Posted October 9, 2015 Share Posted October 9, 2015 Has anyone given any of the Lucas Oil gun products a try? Thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sn0wflake Posted October 9, 2015 Share Posted October 9, 2015 (edited) What about moly based lubes such as molykote? I use this on pretty much anything that needs lubing, bearings, wires, sliding things, bolts, nuts, you name it. It appears to stay put for a long long time too and prevent rust on bolts. Also what about slick 50 and all other teflon lubes. My father has good experience with this, he simply boils machine parts in slick 50 for several hours and all the sudden they last like 3x longer. (no joke) Is it overkill for guns?? Edited October 9, 2015 by sn0wflake Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MissionaryMike Posted October 9, 2015 Share Posted October 9, 2015 Sounds like your dad seasons his guns like I season new grill grates. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frankly Posted November 18, 2015 Share Posted November 18, 2015 Ballistol but I'm sick of the smell, just using up the foolish purchase. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunBugBit Posted November 18, 2015 Share Posted November 18, 2015 Transmission fluid is my CLP. I keep a bag of patches soaked in it at home. I also keep a small bottle of synthetic motor oil in my range bag and if I didn't clean my gun, I'll put a wee bit on the barrel hood and barrel end. I might also wipe the feed ramp clean. Good to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunBugBit Posted November 18, 2015 Share Posted November 18, 2015 So far the engine oils Ive used have one thing in common. After 100 rnds more or less, most of the lubes are NOT on the areas they were applied on. Only possible lube-related issue I've had is when I had some double (interia) feeds years ago. I noticed that the top of my magazine had oil on it. I think it was helping the second-from-the-top rounds pop up from the magazine's feed lips as the top round fed into the chamber. I had been using oil too liberally. I backed off on that and haven't had the issue for a long time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigtimelarry Posted November 19, 2015 Share Posted November 19, 2015 TW25B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beastly Posted November 20, 2015 Share Posted November 20, 2015 Anyone using Crisco... :roflol:Emm Fireclean Mostly 99% isopropyl alcohol and occcasionally brake cleaner and FireClean. Works well, carbon cleans up easy. Just like they said. Is it better than any other option? I dunno about that. Probably go back to SLIP2000 EWL when FreClean runs out but it does go a long way. 5% high presure Moly grease when I need to use a grease, which is rare. Eezox for a preservative / dry lube for blued steel, etc. Interesting Aromatics. One Shot gun cleaner for dies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scduckman03 Posted November 22, 2015 Share Posted November 22, 2015 Slide glide liteon my sti 2011.. Works great Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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