TANFARM Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 Been cleaning firearms for 50+ years and have some questions/observations of my fellow readers ?? I started out with the Hoppes solvent / Remoil lubricant syndrome. As time progressed and I thought the quality and composition of cleaner- lubricants improved greatly I switched over to the CLP mentality....clean, lubricate and protect in one easy step. After years of applying various products to my weapons.....I kept noticing my bore pads and rags, q- tips etc were really dirty......after cleaning, lubricating and protecting. I have tried switching back to my original cleaning procedure......which has become Gunscrubber and FS10 oil. I am now somewhat convinced that this CLPtheory of doing everything at once did nothing well !!........I'm not a scientist , and am not qualified to comment on any magical coating left on parts from CLP? However....I'm am now of the thought that I clean all the items completely , Gunscrubber, and then lubricate as needed, SP10' I'm ahead of the game. I'm specifically using an STI Edge as an example, the SP10 was referred by Dawson's . I like the stuff a lot...?.As suggested if I'm doing a lot of shooting, just add some more lubricant at the range, barrel , slide, etc. and keep on a shooting. Seems to be working very well. I know with the thousands of products available for cleaning it can be overwhelming with all the claims. My thoughts for the day ...comments welcome.......never to old to learn from others. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve RA Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 I recommend a synthetic motor oil as none of the people selling "gun lubricants" have a refinery - except Lucas - or the lubrication specialists like the oil companies. I use Shell Rotella T - Full Synth and a lot of people use Mobil 1. I like the Shell better because it is a diesel lube and has zinc in it which the car lubes have mostly gone away from or reduced the amount. I'm sure most of the people/companies selling gun lube get it in drums and repackage it or buy it already prepackaged from an oil supplier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hi-Power Jack Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 I like the "red stuff" that Brian Enos sells - does great job of lubricating my TruBor, and NO oil splash on my C-More. It doesn't clean (Hoppes), but it sure lubricates. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stuey Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 Synthetic Motor oil or Lucas. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Youngeyes Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 Here's the info on Brian's Slide Glide that Jack uses. From Brian's store.....http://brianenos.com/pages/slide-glide.html Search turned up some things that might give some more info. To quote an old favorite, " The search function is your friend." http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=212614&hl=lubrication http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=212693&hl=%2Bcleaning+%2Band+%2Blubing+%2Bgun#entry2365576 http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=98737&hl=cleaning%20and%20lubing%20gun Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgreen Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 Gunzilla Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biglou13 Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 i ve tried the high tech stuff it works ive tried the basic stuff it works ive tried dry lubes they work ive tried aerosols expensive solvents i broke my teeth on break free/ clp it works most of us here are probably shoot in and for comptitive situations, relatively clean enviroments a good scrubbing with ________ (fill in the blank) wipe and swab, repeat until swabs are clean, i like to brush bore with brass brush with (fill in the blank) mop, repeat until clean. coat all contact surfaces, moving parts lightly with ______ ( same fill in the blank) wipe of any excess currently my fill in thre blank is: sythetic mobil one, and mp7 (was given to me) i keep remmington dry lube in the bag just in case and it doesnt leak... dont over think it, shoot more, and keep it clean i dont clean after every range session..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob DuBois Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 Mobil 1 5w20 on my forth quart Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racinready300ex Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 I'm running Weapon Shield, great stuff. Check out some of the video's on youtube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TANFARM Posted July 29, 2015 Author Share Posted July 29, 2015 Thanks for the replies...I got enough of Brian's Slide Lube to last me the rest of my life...lol....I do shoot competitively and what I consider a fair amount, 2-3 k 9mm a month. The essence of my original question, which I'm sure, was not phrased properly....Is there any advantage to totally cleaning your material and then lubricating as a separate operation? I know how much cumulative wisdom is here and was just wondering if you guys buy into the CLP theory.....or if it really doesn't make any difference one way or the other.....I appreciate the feedback !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TANFARM Posted July 29, 2015 Author Share Posted July 29, 2015 Youngeyes....Thanks for the search results.....just read the first 4 pages of the gun cleaning post and more confused than ever......this thing ran the gammet from I clean my pistol every time I go to the range to my Les Bear has 100k rounds through it and I cleaned the barrel once in 1976.......Fascinating how different the experiences and responses are from shooters based on multiple backgrounds...lol....John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClaytonWelch Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 I think the cleaning and lubrication should be separate steps. I clean with brake parts cleaner (cheaper option gunscrubber) then lubricate with motor oil on a toothbrush. I mixed up some Ed's Red and have been experimenting with it. If you do, I suggest leaving the acetone out. I think with that it is suitable to clean and lube in almost one step. I let the parts soak in it for a few hours, then brush them, then rinse them with it. The ATF is a good enough lube. I'm anal and clean every gun every range trip. Some people think that's too much work but mine don't jam from crud buildup like theirs do... I believe if you take care of your equipment it will take care of you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biglou13 Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 i had a tuned ish springfield armory that would go 2 to 3 K between cleanings never a failure. i now shoot at stroked colt much tighter, wont make 1k before cleaning i don't own a custom super high speed gun but imagine having lower tolerances would necessitate more frequent cleanings...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bountyhunter Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 Clean with cleaners and lube with lubricants. If you like Gunscrubber, buy non-chlorinated brake cleaner spray for about 1/5 the cost. As for lube: Slide Glide mixed with FP-10 as needed to adjust viscosity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zen_grasshopper Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 High Temp bearing grease from Wal-mart. If I need to thin it for the winter months, I mix in the leftover oil from my trucks last oil change, Motorcraft 5w-20. I clean the gun about twice a season, or if I have to replace a part like the trigger return spring and I pull it apart, then I just hose it down with brake cleaner and re-lube it. Works just fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfaith Posted July 30, 2015 Share Posted July 30, 2015 I havent tried one that didnt work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Service Desk Posted July 31, 2015 Share Posted July 31, 2015 I am still very fond of Breakfree on my revolvers as a lube, but for cleaning my home-brewed Ed's Red works just fine. On any of the auto's I use whatever is in arms reach at the time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racinready300ex Posted July 31, 2015 Share Posted July 31, 2015 Like I said I'm using weapon shield, CLP. I clean the gun first and wipe everything down. Then I just apply more CLP in the places that need lube when I reassemble. That's how I do it anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
echotango Posted July 31, 2015 Share Posted July 31, 2015 What bounthunter said. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RippinSVT Posted August 4, 2015 Share Posted August 4, 2015 Depends a lot on the gun. The Glock 34 I shot in Production at Bianchi Cup rarely got cleaned and lubed, just a dab of whatever lube on the slide grooves every 1000 rounds or so maybe. My Caspian Bianchi Open gun on the other hand gets cleaned and lubed every 100-200 rounds, as does a VERY tightly fitted Wilson/Kimber .45 I have. On a 1911 I am adamant about a drop of lube or grease in all the normal spots, and laying it on heavy on the rails and bushing/barrel. The aforementioned 1911's are so ragged-edge accurate and fitted that it is imperative for function and continued accuracy. My favorite stuff that I just ran out of was a gunshow special I bought called StrikeHold. That stuff was awesome. Used in on guns and reloading presses. Lasted a LONG time. I also use cheapo spray can RemOil for general wipe-downs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RangerTrace Posted August 4, 2015 Share Posted August 4, 2015 My favorite gun cleaning/lubricating routine is simple and fast. I use Cylinder and Slide's Dunk Kit Universal and a plastic bristle brush to clean the pistol, blow it dry with compressed air and lubricate with Slide Glide. I've noticed that just about anything other than Slide Glide leaks out into my safe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rooster Posted August 4, 2015 Share Posted August 4, 2015 I'm not sure I buy into the fact that you need to be a big oil company with labs and all kinds of equipment. A lot of great inventions have come out of someone's garage. You have to start somewhere. Anyway I'm sold on fire clean, maybe I've been duped, but I really like it. It's so simple to clean my g34 that I pretty much do it after every range session. I just wipe the gun down with a rag, put a little fire clean on a patch wipe down again that's it takes about 5 minutes. I never run a bore brush down my barrel, just a patch with a little fire clean. It is expensive, but I bought 5 bottles when they were on sale, so I probably have a lifetime supply. I've been on the same bottle for over a year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Smith Posted August 4, 2015 Share Posted August 4, 2015 Just so any newer shooters reading this know, Glocks and other polymer guns frequently have completely different requirements than all metal guns like the STI. They are often run nearly dry with only a drop of CLP (or other) being used. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rooster Posted August 4, 2015 Share Posted August 4, 2015 The only difference that I perceive is there is more metal to lube and protect against the elements, anything that shows signs of rubbing or contact gets lubed no matter if a polymer or metal gun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daft Posted August 5, 2015 Share Posted August 5, 2015 Yea, I clean with Hoppes first. If I use CLP to clean it takes more time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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