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Quality of 2011 trigger jobs


MNshooter

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I'm a striker-fired, production shooter curious about limited and the 2011-style guns. I've read the forums and it's easy to find opinions on builders by perceived reliability, service, cosmetics, etc. What I missed is a discussion on triggers.

I'm not very familiar with the 1911/2011 platform. Is the quality of trigger job a consideration or are all triggers (aside from break weight) essentially the same? If not, what builders have a reputation for the best triggers?

As a follow-up, how much (if at all) do trigger/ignition parts matter? It seems that each builder favors a different brand.

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I am no where near the level of some of the folks here, but there are a couple of things I have found to be good rules of thumb:

  • 2.5# trigger is doable with most quality parts and if done properly, can be reliable always.
  • I have heard very few if any negative things about EGW, and have used their ignition parts in all my builds. They sell a "kit" with a Koenig hammer that I particularly like.
  • Using parts from that kit I have a 2.5-3# pull "out of the box".
  • http://www.shootersconnectionstore.com/KoenigEGW-Ultimate-Trigger-Kit-P1606.aspx
  • I think the main thing is that the sear, disconnector, and hammer all be made out of good quality tool-steel.
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Bluesman is correct, quality parts/material will last a lot longer.

1911 triggers can be light but mushy and/or gritty, a good trigger job will be very crisp and smooth with no extra over travel. I run mine at 3.5#, it is what I'm use to and I don't personally need another pound taken off the pull weight.

Correct sear/hammer geometry will provide a safe trigger, as well as very clean.

It is best left for someone who knows what they are doing, I set my hammer hooks to .02, then about 40% of the sear is cut away for the relief, leaving around .012 (about 4 pieces of paper thick) of sear engagement.

I have been using Wilson hammers and Sears with great results.

Edited by Nickb45
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Don't be stuck on #'s alone. You can have 2 guns (functioning safely) that both measure the same weight, yet you would swear one was lighter. The one that feels lighter is one that has better engagement.

People prefer different parts. I like the EGW hammer and STI sear, then I cut the sear using a TR (True Radius) sear jig. On my latest build, I had the trigger down to 1lb 2oz (10 pull average) with no issues.

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Infinity pistols have the smoothest, lightest triggers of all the guns. When they put them in. All others are compared to this. It takes a lot of work and time to get a reliable 24-28oz tiger that is smooth and safe. One of the reasons for their popularity. Unless you are really good at triggers, have all the right tools, and a complete understanding of the trigger, you won't get there on your own. There are other gunsmiths that can get you a similar trigger-the knowledge is out there. Warranty, cost, etc. increase as you get better and better triggers.

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Having a trigger pull that light hasn't been a problem? It seems 1lb2oz is awful light. Ever have any AD when you draw and prep the trigger as you aim toward the target?

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Having a trigger pull that light hasn't been a problem? It seems 1lb2oz is awful light. Ever have any AD when you draw and prep the trigger as you aim toward the target?

Never had a problem. Gun passes all safety checks.

Playing around I got it down to 12oz, which is where the hammer would start to drop due to trigger bounce while doing safety checks.

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I also run my triggers fairly light. My current STI is at 1lb 8ozs. I like a little pre-travel to get me on the trigger safely, but once I'm there, prep and break are pretty natural. I've never AD'd with it.

My competition 1911 is 2lbs. My carry 1911 is 3lbs.

I do all my own trigger jobs and I'm anal about smooth and crisp. With the right tools, a good understanding of the mechanism, and a little practice, I think anyone can do it.

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Cool. I bought two para 9mm just so I can work on the trigger on one, that and I use one as practice and one for comp. I will report back on my first trigger job. Hopefully i won't screw it up.

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Don't be stuck on #'s alone. You can have 2 guns (functioning safely) that both measure the same weight, yet you would swear one was lighter. The one that feels lighter is one that has better engagement.

People prefer different parts. I like the EGW hammer and STI sear, then I cut the sear using a TR (True Radius) sear jig. On my latest build, I had the trigger down to 1lb 2oz (10 pull average) with no issues.

You know, you're the second person to recommend that recipe. The other one was a bullseye shooter who was teaching me some gunsmithing tricks. He SWEARS by the True-radius, he was trying to explain a "roll" trigger to me, as opposed to a classic "breaks like glass". You can only talk about it so long before you just have to feel it. So he showed me an example of a roll-trigger set to my usual 2.5#. Not to wax poetic or anything, but it was a bit of a religious experience. Some people call them mushy, but they are consistent and you always know RIGHT where it will break.I think I will be setting up at least one gun with this system in the future.

So, since I'm not going to work on a trigger myself, what builders have the best reputation for quality trigger work?

I don't know that I'd jump straight to that. There are a number of kits out there that are "drop-in" or as drop-in as anything can be on a 1911/2011, that give pretty darned good results right from the start. Take a look at the EGW ignition kit mentioned above, Brazos has a kit too. Both are very nice and have the correct geometry already setup.

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I found that changing the relief angle (on the TR), I was able to take the mushy feel out and reduce the roll, while getting a lighter pull weight over a traditional trigger job.

Edited by Quack
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I have a FGW custom open gun and the trigger is very nice. I would guess about 2.5lbs. I held a friends brand new SVI limited gun the other day and the trigger blew my mind. I'm not saying it would make me shoot any faster, but I was VERY impressed

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Weight is only 1/3 of what makes a great trigger . How a trigger feels when you shoot, how it breaks and how it resets is far more important to me. I want a really short reset ( 0.015"- 0.030") with a forward bias in the trigger. I use free hanging weights to test and set all my triggers. The following are my setups:

· Limited 5” .40 is at 2LB

· Limited 6” is 1.75LB

· Limited 5” 9mm is 1.75LB

· Open guns are over 1.5LB but under 1.75LB

Parts selection also plays a part in this, I only us the Clark 4 finger sear spring this allows greater latitude to adjust the disconnect reset function and forward trigger bias.I only use SVI or Extreme engineering Hammer, sear and disconectors.

Out.

2011BLDR

Edited by 2011BLDR
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my gun has and SVi trigger group in it, nothing was done to it and it is pretty damn nice.

A friend has a brazo's kit in his gun with no changes, just dropped in and it is astonishing to me that a drop in can be that good, as good as any SV factory trigger I have ever pulled...

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  • 1 month later...

You know, you're the second person to recommend that recipe. The other one was a bullseye shooter who was teaching me some gunsmithing tricks. He SWEARS by the True-radius, he was trying to explain a "roll" trigger to me, as opposed to a classic "breaks like glass". You can only talk about it so long before you just have to feel it.

Brian (our host) used to run a rolling trigger. I wonder if the "true radius" jig/sear is similar?

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I've been using a Power Custom hammer/sear fixture I purchased from John Nowlin for close to 20 years. It's still the best tool on the market for the job. Plus you can get adapters to do other firearms. As for parts (hammer, sear, disco), EGW or SV have proven to be the best in terms of quality, consistency, and longevity. For springs, I use Wolff 20-23 lb mainspring and either Wolff or SV titanium sear spring.

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