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So how did I do on my first bolt gun purchase.


Nuke531

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Just picked up a Remington 700 SPS tactical AAC in 308 with H & S stock, millet 4x16x56 and a AAC muzzle brake. 600 brass dies and 600 bullets, all the brass is once fired and all the bullets are a combination of 168 grain and 175 grain ballistic tip match grade. I have been reloading pistol for many years, and just started reloading rifle. So how did I do I got it all for $ 1200 and any ideas on any mods or add on I might need. He gave me what he had left of his hand loads I was able to print 1 1/2 inch at 200. This purchase was just for punching paper and having fun and my safe was lacking a bolt gun.

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No expert here, but sounds like a fair price.

I have been reloading pistol for many years, and just started reloading rifle.

I took a little mental R&R from handgunning & switched to rifle last year - and experienced a bit of "reloading culture shock". Completely different animal. :surprise:

And all my handgun gear for matches could fit in a single range bag. Now, it takes several trips to pack all my rifle crap...I mean gear...into my car. :surprise:

Enjoy your rifle! :cheers:

Edited by GrandBoule
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I thought all the case prep that goes into rifle reloading would not make it a fun process, but I found like really like going through all the steps and trying to produce a good quality round. Right now I am reloading on a Dillon 550 but not progressively completing each step separately. Does anyone progressively reload and what kind of accuracy can be achieved by doing so.

I know what you mean when I shoot USPSA its one bag now I back the car up to the range.

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You have a perfect entry level bolt gun bolt gun and scope. I say you got a fair value. A steal would've been for $1K. Should work well out to 500/600 yards with that scope. I guess you got load data w/ the brass and bullets?

Is the trigger stock or worked over? What do you have for rings/bases? Did you get a bipod with it? Did he skim bed the stock? Any aftermarket upgrades like a muzzle brake or oversize bolt knob?

Pics would help.

For upgrades, perhaps a triad or eagle stock pack to get your check weld eye level with the scope, tune the trigger if stock (or a timney 510-U), check out the APA Gen II little bastard brake ... I think the rifle is threaded 5/8x24. Definitely get a 6-9 notched leg harris bipod if you don't have one.

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The mods on the rifle as I got it are as follows, H & S Precision stock (PSS001) I think all the there stocks are aluminum bedded. Rings are Millet high mount not sure of the base I will have to check when I get home. AAC muzzle break. I will post his load data he has on his hand loads. From what I can remember they are 180 gr Hornady SST, I can't remember the powder off hand but I do remember it was 32 gr. charge He told me they are slow only around 2000 fps he set them up with the hornaday lock and load length guage and recommended to me to purchase one for myself. The trigger is the X-Mark Pro. This Rifle has the 20 inch barrel 1/10 twist. No bipod as of yet and no stock pack yet. I plan on having a friend of mine that has a lot of precision rifle experience see what it can do in the hands of a proper shooter. Thanks for all the input I will start shopping around for a bipod and stock pack.

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I wouldn't even bother.

Start here instead: http://www.sniperforums.com/forum/reloading/43364-308-reloading-data-only.html

The loads from Dan Newberry are tried and true. Perhaps you need to tweak them a tad, but many can just load them up and go. Maybe there are better loads available, but these definitely work.

If you want to mimic the FGMM load, look here: http://optimalchargeweight.embarqspace.com/#/ocw-load-recipes/4533485759

With a bolt gun, you can use the higher nodes ... don't try them in a 308 style AR.

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Dan Newberry is Gtg. If western Va isn't too far for you, his lessons are well worth the money. Very laid back, no pressure, just good instruction and good data. If you have a friend go, the price comes down a little per person, and you can split gas and stuff. His stuff is listed under a website for Bangsteel.com

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Sounds like you picked up a nice rifle! I would look into bedding the stock, although the HS Precision stocks have an aluminum block that the action sits on they still benefit from a proper bedding. Other than that you should be good to go. Look into a good rest, avoid the lead sled type and get a Sinclair or similar. If nobody in your group owns a spotting scope they make life a whole lot easier.

Also a good tip, when you are using the hornady OAL comparator get a wooden dowel to use some opposing force on the tip of the bullet as you press it into the chamber. By using one hand on the tool and one hand on the dowel it is far easier to get a consistent measurement.

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Thanks again for all this tips. The dies I got in the deal are Redding dies with a Full length resizing die. I know the bolt guns fire form the casing , so I'm thinking I should only use the full length die when its fresh brass or once fired from another rifle does this sound about right.

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Sounds like you did just fine.

The once fired brass, is it match brass? That is my only concern. A friend of mine bought once fired brass, and turned out it was machine gun fired brass and had a lot of really stretched out brass.

Enjoy your shooting!

Wally

Cascade Precision Rifleworks

www.facebook.com/kleinrifleworks

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Thanks again for all this tips. The dies I got in the deal are Redding dies with a Full length resizing die. I know the bolt guns fire form the casing , so I'm thinking I should only use the full length die when its fresh brass or once fired from another rifle does this sound about right.

No, you should use the full length sizing die every time you reload a case. Redding makes one of the best dies out there. The key here is to have as much consistency as possible. I would recommend you pick up a head space gauge (hornady makes a good one) and bump the shoulder back .002. This will decrease the stress on the back and make chambering the round much easier. Here is some info to better explain.

http://riflemansjournal.blogspot.com/2009/08/reloading-headspace.html

http://riflemansjournal.blogspot.com/2010/06/basics-resizing-case-dimension-changes.html

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Just picked up a Remington 700 SPS tactical AAC in 308 with H & S stock, millet 4x16x56 and a AAC muzzle brake. 600 brass dies and 600 bullets, all the brass is once fired and all the bullets are a combination of 168 grain and 175 grain ballistic tip match grade. I have been reloading pistol for many years, and just started reloading rifle. So how did I do I got it all for $ 1200 and any ideas on any mods or add on I might need. He gave me what he had left of his hand loads I was able to print 1 1/2 inch at 200. This purchase was just for punching paper and having fun and my safe was lacking a bolt gun.

1.5 inch at 200yd is about 0.75 MOA which is pretty decent, given that you are new to that rifle and group size depends a lot on the shooter.

The rifle is a really decent starter rifle and does quite well with 175gr and 178gr HPBT and AMAX bullets. The 168's are OK for practice and up to about 600yd shooting.

If you are looking to get started reloading, then read some of the past threads on long gun loading and keep it as simple as possible to start with. If that's Federal brass, then you are only going to get a couple loads out of it before it starts giving you problems.

The scope is OK to start with, but you will outgrow it fairly quickly. Used price on that rifle without scope and stuff is about $700 so $1200 for the kit is OK, but not staggeringly great. I wouldn't change a single thing right now except to possibly get a cheek pad, like a Tac-Ops - gives your head a bit better a position.

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