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Stupid question from newbie in open


philproulx

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Hello

I just bought a open 686 with a gilmore lead adjustable

i don't have acces to a mover .....so i'm wondering about the adjustment

do you have to make adjustment for all distances or it's the same .....

thanks

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It is the same. Target moves at 10 ft/sec. Lead at 25 yards in inches is 9000/bullet velocity in ft/sec. So with a bullet velocity of 1000 ft/sec, the 25 yard lead is 9 inches. With that lead dialed into the Gilmore at 25 yards, all the other distances will be correct.

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If you do not have a mover just set up a static target. At ten yards face the way the target would normally come from and set timer for 5 sec. So you are shooting a static mover at reduced time. Then you repeat but start, faceing to the opposite side. Then move back to 15 yds and repeat. Keep going, do the 3 shot strings at 20 and 25 until you have done all 48 shots.You will be suprised how well it works.

Coatesy

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THE most important thing to know when setting up your mover is your bullet speed. I know this is obvious, but you said you were new so please don't take offense. When you bought the gun, did the previous owner tell you what loads he used? If so, good! If not, developing a load will be your first priority. With the 686, your most likely going to go with a 38 Special round. There's a ton of info out there on this round and a lot of options. Once you get your bullet speed, then you can calculate the lead. See the topic below for formulas and a lead chart.

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=6798&hl=%2Bmover+%2Bleads#entry80909

By looking at the chart in the topic, you see that the leads are given at the different yardages. You can sight your gun in at any of those and it will be good for the others. Think of it as a right triangle. The lines of the 90 degree angle will be your line of sight and the mover track. The other line will be your bullet path. You can mark anywhere along that line and the path will remain the same. In other words, it really doesn't matter if you sight in your mover at 10 or 25 yards, as long as you use the correct calculated distance (ex: 4" @ 10 yards), the sight will be good at the other yardages.

Good luck with your new revo! I love shooting my AP wheelgun!

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Something I learned using my Metallic mover rear sight...as you get closer to the wall you need to lag behind the X ring. I woke up saturday morning after the Cup with the "AH HA!" realization of that. A static lead grows out on the edges (close to the walls).

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Haven't seen this mentioned, so I will. Once you get to where you can practice on a real mover you MAY find that your lead is not the same going both directions. Nothing to do with ballistics or gun, just how you see, how you squeeze, and react to the target. Mine is quit different.

Good luck!

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I have had a lot of people with Stick Shifts tell me their lead is not the same for both ways. The same lead is good enough for a while until you get to the point where you can really tell a difference, usually Master or High Master scores.

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well i just shot my new-old open wheelgun and i liked it

i lost 4 points at the barricade

lost 12 points on the practical ----stupid weakhand---and i should learn to go prone at 25 (6-8points

clean the plates

and instead of the mover we do the speed load event at 10-15-20-25 , basically the same distances as the mover

lost 4 points on that weak hand at 10 again

usually i shoot metallic with a trojan 6 9mm

the best i did was 1878-143x

so i figure i can post better score in open with a little practice( shot 1900 tonight)

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Something I learned using my Metallic mover rear sight...as you get closer to the wall you need to lag behind the X ring. I woke up saturday morning after the Cup with the "AH HA!" realization of that. A static lead grows out on the edges (close to the walls).

I've never noticed that, but I have found at the practice range that sometimes the targets were shut off near to the edges (but it was a long time ago and it may have changed) which meant I was in front of where I wanted to be.

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That would make sense. I used to prefer getting the shots done before the last 10 feet or so of travel if possible.

If I ever get to shoot it again, I'll have to play around and see what happens.

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