Steel Target and Wall Stands

[lcs]

Our range bay floors are rock. Spiking stands and walls ain't happening. We use wooden target stands now and funky 2x4 wall L shaped legs. Very cumbersome and take a lot of room. Really inhibits the stage design ideas. In addition, the targets blow over easily. Sandbagging is a huge pain in the ass. They just rot and take sand, which we don't have.

I am on a mission to buy 100 target stands and 50 wall stands. I live in Centerville Ohio and will travel to neighboring states to transport said steel.

I have samples of what I need, but will have to be modified. Did I mention stakes will not work.

I know someone builds these stands not to far from here. You built Kevin stands for MRP. I will talk to anyone who builds stands and is fairly close to Ohio.

If you know of someone who built stands for you--Have them PM or email me.

Thanks

Larry

[Sarge]

I will email jay weber. He built our wall stands

[Chills1994]

At one club, what they used was a 5 gallon bucket, 3 or 4 pieces of PVC pipe cut to the same length as the bucket is tall, basically. Tape the pipes together and then cover all the open ends with duct tape. Set this grouping of pipes into the bucket vertically, pour in concrete into bucket around pipes. Let concrete cure for a couple of days.

Make the PVC pipe inside diameter equal to whatever will fit a wooden 2X2.

[Sarge]

At one club, what they used was a 5 gallon bucket, 3 or 4 pieces of PVC pipe cut to the same length as the bucket is tall, basically. Tape the pipes together and then cover all the open ends with duct tape. Set this grouping of pipes into the bucket vertically, pour in concrete into bucket around pipes. Let concrete cure for a couple of days.

Make the PVC pipe inside diameter equal to whatever will fit a wooden 2X2.

Great idea unless storage and weight are concerns! Maybe something smaller like a smaller bucket would still work? For me everything needs to stack somehow and be very compact when stored.

[toothandnail]

At one club, what they used was a 5 gallon bucket, 3 or 4 pieces of PVC pipe cut to the same length as the bucket is tall, basically. Tape the pipes together and then cover all the open ends with duct tape. Set this grouping of pipes into the bucket vertically, pour in concrete into bucket around pipes. Let concrete cure for a couple of days.

Make the PVC pipe inside diameter equal to whatever will fit a wooden 2X2.

Great idea unless storage and weight are concerns! Maybe something smaller like a smaller bucket would still work? For me everything needs to stack somehow and be very compact when stored.

We tried that, a single wall still easily blows over, 2 walls,3 buckets at an angle does fair.

We went back to driving T posts. I know that won't work for the OP.

We tried several ways - T posts work best for us.

We make all our targets as well.

[Chills1994]

OP, how deep is the rock floor on your range?

I don't know if you mean naturally occurring rock, or if you had gravel trucked in and dumped in your bays.

There is another thread from a while back where a club is using these anchors, I think normally meant for concrete, and basically screwing the wall partitions' feet to the ground. This anchor is made by the Simpson Strong Tie company.

[Sarge]

OP, how deep is the rock floor on your range?

I don't know if you mean naturally occurring rock, or if you had gravel trucked in and dumped in your bays.

There is another thread from a while back where a club is using these anchors, I think normally meant for concrete, and basically screwing the wall partitions' feet to the ground. This anchor is made by the Simpson Strong Tie company.

I shoot at the OP's range. It's bedrock under the typical gravel. The big nails we all use go through the few inches of gravel and then stop dead!

[Chills1994]

You could do like PASA park does, put up plywood walls with 2 by whatever "frames" and leave them up permanently. Hammer drill that stuff to the bedrock

[Sarge]

You could do like PASA park does, put up plywood walls with 2 by whatever "frames" and leave them up permanently. Hammer drill that stuff to the bedrock

All the matches around here are "member clubs" We all must return ALL PITS to membership use immediately after a match. I would love to be a member of a USPSA club only so we could leave things set up.

[Dr. Phil]

Apologies for the dumb question ( "you gotta go with what you're good at"), but, why not use the same "H" brackets used for steel challenge stands for wall stands? Light weight, stackable, don't tip easily, weight with sandbags if necessary... Build the walls moveable, and set in the stands, and, good to go. I use mine for steel challenge, paper targets, even put long strips between 2 and staple on stuff like for El Prez. Just a thought...

[Sarge]

Apologies for the dumb question ( "you gotta go with what you're good at"), but, why not use the same "H" brackets used for steel challenge stands for wall stands? Light weight, stackable, don't tip easily, weight with sandbags if necessary... Build the walls moveable, and set in the stands, and, good to go. I use mine for steel challenge, paper targets, even put long strips between 2 and staple on stuff like for El Prez. Just a thought...

No matter how light you build walls they are still top heavy and blow over quite easily. Sandbags would cure that but the OP has ruled out using them. Some type of weight needs to be applied in my opinion. Possibly small concrete donuts if sandbags are a no go

[lcs]

OP, how deep is the rock floor on your range?

I don't know if you mean naturally occurring rock, or if you had gravel trucked in and dumped in your bays.

There is another thread from a while back where a club is using these anchors, I think normally meant for concrete, and basically screwing the wall partitions' feet to the ground. This anchor is made by the Simpson Strong Tie company.

Our range is sitting on bedrock. You need TNT to drive anything in it.

[lcs]

Apologies for the dumb question ( "you gotta go with what you're good at"), but, why not use the same "H" brackets used for steel challenge stands for wall stands? Light weight, stackable, don't tip easily, weight with sandbags if necessary... Build the walls moveable, and set in the stands, and, good to go. I use mine for steel challenge, paper targets, even put long strips between 2 and staple on stuff like for El Prez. Just a thought...

No matter how light you build walls they are still top heavy and blow over quite easily. Sandbags would cure that but the OP has ruled out using them. Some type of weight needs to be applied in my opinion. Possibly small concrete donuts if sandbags are a no go

They will blow over in gusty conditions. I was thinking of steel shaped bricks. Small, but heavy and easily stackable. I think steel target stands and wall stands will withstand light winds. Sandbags rot quickly. I'm looking for a long term solution.

I'm looking for someone to build the stands for us. We have the $$$. I also have the samples (thanks Kevin).

[lcs]

You could do like PASA park does, put up plywood walls with 2 by whatever "frames" and leave them up permanently. Hammer drill that stuff to the bedrock

All the matches around here are "member clubs" We all must return ALL PITS to membership use immediately after a match. I would love to be a member of a USPSA club only so we could leave things set up.

Amen to that!

[Mark R]

A solution to your sandbag issue is to purchase a couple pickup truck tool boxes on Craiglist. You can usually get them for about $50-70. Get one or two and store them strategically between the bays. Store your sandbags in them. I have a set of sandbags I filled about 1.5 years ago and they are still going strong. I even picked up a large truck box to store our 4"x4" shotgun plates and stands in.

[jmorris]

I built these, use mesh to cover (like the orange or black plastic fencing stuff) so you can still see through them.

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=148153

[Mark R]

Also, purchase a couple rolls of velcro...you can use the velcro to combine/tie two walls together and if at a 45-90 degree angle, they will hold themselves up if the walls are sturdy built.

[Chills1994]

Tie wire, like what is used for rebar, works well for joining wall sections together. Even moreso if you can twist it together in a drill first. Then you use a pair of kleins (lineman's pliers) to twist a 12 inch section together to bring two wall panels tightly together.