entropic Posted May 10, 2015 Share Posted May 10, 2015 (edited) I will post my projects here as they are completed. Right now I have have some basic tools that will do quality work. I'm Mostly working on my own blasters but have starting doing some free work for friends. Here is a slide I did some cuts on. I will get to fine tune the process and cut out a lot of the setup time when I do it again. Here is after bead blasting. There was some slight oxidation after blasting, so I will need an air dryer before I can start playing with phosphate finishes. The rear serrations were recessed from .025" down to .002" with the front and rear edges radiused and "dehorned" to reduce thumb drag malfunctions. The front serrations were extended with a taper and fade in depth. Also tri-topped, with a slightly different chamfer next to the rear sight. Weight was also taken out under the rear sight. I call these the "Gnyra" cuts. Stay tuned, I have lots more stuff in the works, Dave Edited May 11, 2015 by entropic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DagoRed Posted May 11, 2015 Share Posted May 11, 2015 Looks good. I like seeing gunsmithing work, I keep a mental list of things I like and want later Red Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
515CUSTOMS Posted May 11, 2015 Share Posted May 11, 2015 Looks good, cant wait to see more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsa Posted May 11, 2015 Share Posted May 11, 2015 Original and unique, looks good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ltdmstr Posted May 12, 2015 Share Posted May 12, 2015 Very cool idea with the front serrations. Also like how you left some material on the sides for the rear sight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
entropic Posted May 12, 2015 Author Share Posted May 12, 2015 Very cool idea with the front serrations. Also like how you left some material on the sides for the rear sight. Thanks. I never liked how the rear sights hang off the side on a tri-topped slide. I also never liked how the front serrations do not come back far enough. Here is how the rear sight fits up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ltdmstr Posted May 14, 2015 Share Posted May 14, 2015 Same here. I hate it when the sight hangs over the edge like on most tri tops. What size diameter cutter did you use for the serrations? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
entropic Posted May 14, 2015 Author Share Posted May 14, 2015 The factory serrations are 1/8". I extend them with the same spacing. Here is another one I did last night with some new carbide tools... I will never use HSS Cutters again if I don't have to: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
entropic Posted May 15, 2015 Author Share Posted May 15, 2015 Here is part of my shop. Hopefully the bike will be replaced with a lathe in the near future. Just finished a friends edge: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hangin Posted May 17, 2015 Share Posted May 17, 2015 Looks good man. Doing all of your work on a manual mill? No cnc or DRO? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KSwift Posted May 17, 2015 Share Posted May 17, 2015 The pill Gynra cuts are interesting, didn't realize there was that much dead weight in that area, thought it would have reached internals by then... Excellent call on stopping the tri-top short of the rear sight and the front serration extensions. When I see things like this, I wonder why it wasn't blatantly obvious to the people who did 90% of what your product ended up at... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FULLMETAL Posted May 17, 2015 Share Posted May 17, 2015 I really like the front serrations Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
entropic Posted May 24, 2015 Author Share Posted May 24, 2015 Looks good man. Doing all of your work on a manual mill? No cnc or DRO? I do everything without a DRO. I will need one for some of the more intricate projects I have planned. I will end up replacing the whole machine since the Burke mill is tough to retrofit. Overheard clearnace is the only reason I didn't get a bridgeport in the first place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
entropic Posted May 24, 2015 Author Share Posted May 24, 2015 I'm done doing these cuts for a while. I've done it 3 times with minor variations. The first time took me 12 hours for just the cuts. The last took about 8 with setup, cleanup, and finishing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
818-DVC Posted May 27, 2015 Share Posted May 27, 2015 (edited) Reminds me of my serrations. I like! Edited May 27, 2015 by 818-DVC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
515CUSTOMS Posted May 27, 2015 Share Posted May 27, 2015 I wish I had a mill, off to craiglist i go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrWallace Posted July 3, 2015 Share Posted July 3, 2015 How long did it take you to cut the tri-top if you don't mind me asking? I'm looking for someone to do the exact thing you've done here (in a decent time frame I should add) and have struck out so far Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tochnost Posted July 6, 2015 Share Posted July 6, 2015 I want a mill so bad right now.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
entropic Posted July 16, 2015 Author Share Posted July 16, 2015 How long did it take you to cut the tri-top if you don't mind me asking? I'm looking for someone to do the exact thing you've done here (in a decent time frame I should add) and have struck out so far Tri-top is pretty straight forward. Would probably take 2 or 3 hours. Does Cheely still do quick turn around work on slides? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrWallace Posted July 17, 2015 Share Posted July 17, 2015 He currently isn't doing slide work, just full gun builds Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steviesterno Posted July 18, 2015 Share Posted July 18, 2015 hey when are you taking slide work from not your friends? or could I be your friends if I mail you beer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
open17 Posted July 18, 2015 Share Posted July 18, 2015 Put the DRO right up at the top of your "I WANT" list. I do a lot of manual mill work. Ran without a DRO for a year or so---then MSC had a heck of a sale on Mitutoyo DRO's. Worth every penny, and it's paid for itself a dozen times over in the past few years. XY with the separate little 5" on the quill---nothing on the knee. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted July 18, 2015 Share Posted July 18, 2015 A DRO is the most valuable milling tool in the last 100 years. It takes away all the guesswork, aggrivation, and features on the workpiece that are just enough off location to ruin the work. All you need is the 2 axis X and Y, then the separate one on the quill if you want like open 17 said. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmiller Posted July 18, 2015 Share Posted July 18, 2015 I bought my first mill last year. Played around with it for an hour or 2 without a DRO, an ordered a set. I would not want to run it without them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
entropic Posted July 19, 2015 Author Share Posted July 19, 2015 It will have a DRO soon enough. I'm glad I've ran it without one for a while though... it has really taught me to pay attention to a lot of little things at once. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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