peterthefish Posted May 7, 2015 Share Posted May 7, 2015 (edited) That's a bummer - I always thought Ti cylinders were supposed to be a cure for this problem. Any other work done on the gun? Any chance you can get some pics of the peening? Or if you're shooting mini-walls in RI on 5/24 S&W may have some staff shooters there - usually some marketing and engineering folks. Having peening after just 1,500 rounds is crazy - and that's assuming you've dry fired 3-4 times as much. I did put an extra strength stop spring in mind because the cylinder never locked with authority on closing. Edited May 7, 2015 by peterthefish Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanc Posted May 7, 2015 Share Posted May 7, 2015 That's a bummer - I always thought Ti cylinders were supposed to be a cure for this problem. Any other work done on the gun? Any chance you can get some pics of the peening? Or if you're shooting mini-walls in RI on 5/24 S&W may have some staff shooters there - usually some marketing and engineering folks. Having peening after just 1,500 rounds is crazy - and that's assuming you've dry fired 3-4 times as much. I did put an extra strength stop spring in mind because the cylinder never locked with authority on closing. Its been repaired with the tap back into shape with a punch method desribed here on other threads. The gun was gone through and made workable by a competent revolver smith, action, barrel, end shake, chamber ream, etc... This gun has relatively no dry fire, the 1500 is representative, it *might* have 500 clicks of dry fire on it. The cyl stop spring is the original. Here is a pic of one of my 627 ti cylinders. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=214247&p=2384140 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterthefish Posted May 7, 2015 Share Posted May 7, 2015 So what causes that peening? Is it the cylinder hitting the stop as the stop engages and bouncing back, causing the stop to hit the lead in edge and peen there (which in turn causes the peening on the opposite edge as the stop begins to skip higher and higher)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanc Posted May 7, 2015 Share Posted May 7, 2015 So what causes that peening? Is it the cylinder hitting the stop as the stop engages and bouncing back, causing the stop to hit the lead in edge and peen there (which in turn causes the peening on the opposite edge as the stop begins to skip higher and higher)? Presumably yes, its the bounce back that cause that lead in side peen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterthefish Posted May 7, 2015 Share Posted May 7, 2015 So what causes that peening? Is it the cylinder hitting the stop as the stop engages and bouncing back, causing the stop to hit the lead in edge and peen there (which in turn causes the peening on the opposite edge as the stop begins to skip higher and higher)? Presumably yes, its the bounce back that cause that lead in side peen. So what are your splits like? Just wondering - maybe I shoot too slow for this to be an issue? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanc Posted May 7, 2015 Share Posted May 7, 2015 So what causes that peening? Is it the cylinder hitting the stop as the stop engages and bouncing back, causing the stop to hit the lead in edge and peen there (which in turn causes the peening on the opposite edge as the stop begins to skip higher and higher)? Presumably yes, its the bounce back that cause that lead in side peen. So what are your splits like? Just wondering - maybe I shoot too slow for this to be an issue? My splits are nothing remotely special. Realitically if I am actually hitting things in the middle, I run around the .28 to .32 depending on the target difficulty. I can rail on something close, like 5 yards and run around .19 but that is not representative at all of how I shoot 99% of the targets in a match or practice or dry fire for that matter, and an 19 is nothing special anyways when the really fast guys are breaking 15. Won't be at mini walls either btw, probably will be at the ICORE east regional in penn that day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted May 7, 2015 Share Posted May 7, 2015 To at least some extent, the peening problems can be prevented by handling the gun more gently. Over the years I have noticed that several of my friends who have gone through multiple cylinders happen to be the same guys who SLAM the cylinder shut really aggressively with a flat palm. Listen to Jerry on this--he says there is no reason to slam the gun open and shut, and nobody reloads faster than Jerry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanc Posted May 7, 2015 Share Posted May 7, 2015 To at least some extent, the peening problems can be prevented by handling the gun more gently. Over the years I have noticed that several of my friends who have gone through multiple cylinders happen to be the same guys who SLAM the cylinder shut really aggressively with a flat palm. Listen to Jerry on this--he says there is no reason to slam the gun open and shut, and nobody reloads faster than Jerry. I would say compared to how I see other people smash the cylinder shut, I positively baby the gun with respect to reloads, both opening and closing. I roll the cylinder open and closed, pretty much trying hard to emulate exactly what jerry does though pretty far off the mark by comparison speed wise. Dave says I am beating on the trigger which I suppose must be it, but it doesn't feel like I beat on it nor do I stage it, I just pull the thing back. I suppose this warrants more examination of how I am actually shooting, if I am aiming then rushing the pull so even though splits are nothing special, it doesn't mean I am not snatching at the trigger when the sights look good... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanc Posted May 7, 2015 Share Posted May 7, 2015 (edited) btw, just to add to be specific, the cylinders my 929 was skipping on all had ridge on the lead in, you could not see it or feel it with your finger, but with a pin or a needle, it was there. Couple passes with an extra fine cratex bit on the dremel...no more ridge, no more skips, just like that... I find it at least a little remarkable that a practically imperceptible imperfection caused the gun to fail. Talking to my gunsmith about possibly cutting a more aggressive(longer at least, and possibly ever so slight deeper) lead in. When I compare the lead in on my 929 cylinders vs one of my 627's, there is no comparison, the 929 is shallow and very short by comparison. Edited May 7, 2015 by seanc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hearthco Posted May 8, 2015 Share Posted May 8, 2015 I know this has morfed away from moonclips, but I just discovered it and have a bit of insight about the 929 clips. The dimension and tolerance for the extractor groove of the 9mm is rather generous for our purposes. The sami spec is .347 -.020. The width of the groove is .035 +.010. This is wide open compared to the very consistant dimensions we have seen in the .38 special cart, particularly Starline, R-P, and Federal brass. Ive found that my .035 thick standard .38 super clip fits Starline and Winchester brass very well. Suprisingly R-P brass is VERY loose. Perhaps R-P brass will work well with the TK .341 clips. Because of the plus tolerance on the groove width, some may find they can use .042 thick clips. If the gun has adequate clearance between case head and F pin bushing a .042 clip is possible and REALLY makes for a great fit with the cartridge. I have made .042 clips in .38 supercomp brass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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