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Tac Sport throat reaming!?


jayjay1

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Who did it?

How huge is the benefit?

Well, all CZ´s which I´ve loaded for (a handfull Shadows and one TS in .40) had very short throats.

So I guess, this is somehow a CZ thingy, not knowing why.

But this rather limits the opportunities of a reloader.

With my Tac Sport in .40 I wanted to try 200 and 220gr. bullets, but had to end the trials because of pressure signs (primers and brass).

So I stuck with 180grainers, which have a short OAL, and I can´t use a wide variety of powders too.

We have Major PF of 170 over here, so I have to load ´em 175+.

I´m thinking about reaming the chamber, back and forth, for a pretty while now.

It is restricted by law, to do this on your own over here, a gunsmith has to do this.

After modifiyng the barrel, it must be officially proofed by the department (overpressure shots).

This whole story, including weapon shipment and so on, will cost me some bucks.

So I want to ask you guys, who have reamed the throats of your Tac Sport, about the benefit.

What did it effect?

Would you do it again?

Begging for infos,

Jay

:cheers:

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Your bullet will determine the max oal the chamber will hold, there is also a limit to what the magazine will reliably feed. I understand that 1.145 is about the magazine max, but I keep mine at 1.135 inches. YMMV if you are only loading 10 maybe you can run them longer. Anyway, for the bullets I shoot there is no need for reaming.

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IMO, reaming or throating is waste of time and money. You are constrained by the mag length. I load 180s short with no pressure signs what-so-ever.

I've loaded 200gn at 1.145-50. You have to take into consideration powder and bullet design. A round nose seated to OAL of 1.145 is going to sit deeper in the case(higher pressure) than a FP at 1.145.

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The throat on my CZs have been the limiting factor in OAL. Buy a Manson standard reamer from Brownells (~$70) and some Oatey Dark Thread Cutting Oil for $7 in the plumbing aisle at Home Depot. Optionally buy Manson go, no-go gages to verify headspace (~$30 for both). Buy a tap handle if you don't already own one. Don't use a wrench as a substitute for a tap handle. My amateur process: Shove a cotton ball in the barrel just below the depth of the reamer to catch the metal shavings and oil. Put the barrel in a vice, chamber facing up. Generously oil the reamer and the chamber. Insert the reamer and turn the clockwise, don't push downward more than slight pressure, let the weight of the tool do the work and turn the tap handle with both hands so there isn't a side load on the cutter. Turn the handle until it turns free and smooth. This should take about 30 seconds (or less) of turning the reamer. If you stop once the reamer turns free you won't change headspace. Push the cotton ball back through the chamber and clean as the barrel to remove any remaining metal chips.

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For my TS, I load to an ipsc power factor of 176 using 200 grain frontier cmj bullets, at a length of 28.8 mm (1.134 inches). No problems at all with pressure. I've also used cheaper bullets with a different profile - again with no issues.

Are you sure about the pressure problem? The signs can sometimes be deceptive in a pistol if your primers are on the soft side.

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I may be wrong but I believe you can just use a Manson throating reamer and you won't have to worry about changing headspace. Dave Manson is a very helpful guy. Give him a call.

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The OP is in Germany, any modification to the barrel must be followed by a re-proof at the proofhouse. Only gunsmiths (actual licensed title) and manufacturers may submit guns to the proof house. No gunsmith is likely to submit another's work to the proofhouse. Repairs and modifications can get quite expensive.

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