Beastly Posted November 28, 2015 Share Posted November 28, 2015 Cross referenced: http://www.doodieproject.com/index.php?/topic/4259-mark-7-hotness/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ano Posted December 19, 2015 Share Posted December 19, 2015 Put new firmware on mine, I had to go into settings, and enable unsigned apps, then it ran. New firmware seems cool, they just sent me a noise filter for case feeder.. AND the decap sensor :D :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beastly Posted December 19, 2015 Share Posted December 19, 2015 I had to do the same with enabling signed apps. New firmware is all goodness. Waiting for my decap sensor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JatCarver Posted December 22, 2015 Author Share Posted December 22, 2015 Anyone have any experience doing 223 case prep with there Mark 7? Mostly wondering what clutch level your using. I was using 2-3 during setup of the dies but I was applying imperial sizing wax to each case. After everything was dialing in I lubed a couple hundred cased with what I thought was a generous amount of Dillon case lube but I'm having to run the clutch at 15-20 do keep it from "stalling out" Just wondering if this is normal or if I should be using more lube. The cases don't seem to to be sticking so I'm thinking it's fine but curious what others might be doing. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigels1911 Posted December 22, 2015 Share Posted December 22, 2015 Jat - that clutch level sounds pretty high. Can you try a different lube and let us know how that works ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maximis228 Posted December 22, 2015 Share Posted December 22, 2015 Anyone have any experience doing 223 case prep with there Mark 7? Mostly wondering what clutch level your using. I was using 2-3 during setup of the dies but I was applying imperial sizing wax to each case. After everything was dialing in I lubed a couple hundred cased with what I thought was a generous amount of Dillon case lube but I'm having to run the clutch at 15-20 do keep it from "stalling out" Just wondering if this is normal or if I should be using more lube. The cases don't seem to to be sticking so I'm thinking it's fine but curious what others might be doing. Thanks! Some great information on .223 processing and loading - http://www.doodieproject.com/index.php?/topic/4259-mark-7-hotness/page-5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beastly Posted December 22, 2015 Share Posted December 22, 2015 (edited) I run 223 brass processing at Clutch = 0 or maybe 1. On startup sometimes I have to hit the run button a bunch until things get warmed / lubed up. I don't think I've ever run it at more than clutch = 3-4. Troubleshooting - I assume either under-lubed or one or more stations need to be adjusted. Time to get methodical. Will the machine run empty at Clutch = 0? Put in a single case. What station(s) does it stop at? Hand-lube that case. Try again. Have you ever taken the machine down and cleaned/lubed all the moving parts? It's not so intimidating if taken on piecemeal. Edited December 22, 2015 by Beastly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JatCarver Posted December 23, 2015 Author Share Posted December 23, 2015 Anyone have any experience doing 223 case prep with there Mark 7? Mostly wondering what clutch level your using. I was using 2-3 during setup of the dies but I was applying imperial sizing wax to each case. After everything was dialing in I lubed a couple hundred cased with what I thought was a generous amount of Dillon case lube but I'm having to run the clutch at 15-20 do keep it from "stalling out" Just wondering if this is normal or if I should be using more lube. The cases don't seem to to be sticking so I'm thinking it's fine but curious what others might be doing. Thanks! Some great information on .223 processing and loading - http://www.doodieproject.com/index.php?/topic/4259-mark-7-hotness/page-5 Sweet great thread, I'll read it all the way through when I have a few minutes, thanks again I run 223 brass processing at Clutch = 0 or maybe 1. On startup sometimes I have to hit the run button a bunch until things get warmed / lubed up. I don't think I've ever run it at more than clutch = 3-4. Troubleshooting - I assume either under-lubed or one or more stations need to be adjusted. Time to get methodical. Will the machine run empty at Clutch = 0? Put in a single case. What station(s) does it stop at? Hand-lube that case. Try again. Have you ever taken the machine down and cleaned/lubed all the moving parts? It's not so intimidating if taken on piecemeal. Just tore the machine completely, cleaned and lubed everything before starting the 223 prep. I played with more/different lubes and can run it at 5 now. Much better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcracco Posted December 28, 2015 Share Posted December 28, 2015 Got my Mark7 in today. Will be running lots of 223/300 BO with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
safeactionjackson Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 ^mcracco=beastmode When you coming to K33 for IDPA? ~g Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcracco Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 Soon. This brass thing has been keeping me so busy I have been missing a lot of matches. I'm hoping the Mark7 will allow me to build some inventory so I don't feel guilty about going out to play. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkS_A18138 Posted February 7, 2016 Share Posted February 7, 2016 SO guys I have had my Mark 7 since Nov, and it has been awesome. I have been loading tons of 38 comp and I can tell you it's a pain in the ass at 1500 phr unless you tighten the damn shell plate down hard! I still get a touch of spilled powder, well not anymore. I have also been loading 223 and came across this small company called fast and friendly brass. This guy is in the brass prep'ing business but also make some cool items like very close tolerance shell plates #3 and #5 for Dillon 1050. I liked it because the 223 brass didn't move around a lot loading at 1200 phr. Well I had to load some more Comp and I thought I would give the new plate a try. Holy crap 1800 PHR not a darn thing was spilling and the plate was tighten down like the book says and not cranked down. Here is crappy video I made..https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RfcC_X4xAyE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeerBaron Posted February 7, 2016 Share Posted February 7, 2016 Nice. Looks like 10gn+ of 3n38 in there. I had a look on the ffb site. I'm keen to try their lee decapping rod that uses the rcbs tips. Thanks for the info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkS_A18138 Posted February 8, 2016 Share Posted February 8, 2016 bought the lee pin it's great piece also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkS_A18138 Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 just saw on FB that Fast and Friendly Brass has the shell plates in stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunslingerDK Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 I'm curious and have a few questions 1. When changing calibers how does one go about determining the tightness of the shell plate? I always cycle the press slowly and if I feel too much resistance I loosen the nut. What is the procedure for this with the Mark 7 installed? 2. Do the new ones ship with the EMI filter for the casefeeder or does that have to be ordered separately? 3. Do you guys use the DAA powder funnel? I don't because I do not like the "thump" feeling when the case slips off the funnel. I hardly do not have a bullet that does not tumble during indexing, so I figure I will have to use the DAA funnel. I do not see it mentioned in connection with the Mark 7, so I am curious to know if people are using it or doing something else to keep bullets from toppling over. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ano Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 1) turn off sytem, pull it down manually to where shellplate can be spun by your fingers, thats how you do it, shouldnt really use handle 2) pretty sure they all do? 3) On a super 1050 you dont use the DAA powder funnel, station 3 (expander) takes care of business and belling/expanding it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beastly Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 I got my Mark 7 last year, and received/installed a filter AFTER I experienced an intermittent EMI/tablet reset problem. Not everyone has an isse, as I understand it. My problem is resolved. I'm definitely using the MBF powder funnel. My swage backup rod (Ano, what I think you mean by Station 3) is set for swaging, I don't give a thought to anything else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ano Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 station 3 is on the bottom, swager, on top its an expander, and counterhold for the swager, it has the same form as mrbf funnel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DWFAN Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 It doesn't expand enough to prevent tipped bullets for me. I use the MBF Powder through expander, and just deal with the clunking. Now that it's not my arm feeling it, it's not a big deal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Speedmonger Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 The clunking that i think you are referring to is a function of no case lube in the case mouth. I lube in a half cardboard box with 1.5" sides - holds about 1,000 cases at a time. couple of sprays across all the cases, jiggle em around do another spray across all the cases. Then I jiggle the box to stand up the cases and get about 80% of them stood up. spray the lube across them. you can repeat the last step if you want but the idea is that the loading operation is butter - nothing sticks or clunks coming off the powder die as this can lead to other issues. The entire lube operation takes 20 seconds/1,000 rounds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
echotango Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 (edited) I no longer use the MBF die per Rick(MBF). I use a Lyman M die in station 2 and a regular dillon powder die. Got rid of all the clunking/sticking. I also do not use any case lube. Edited March 28, 2016 by echotango Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beastly Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 I no longer use the MBF die per Rick(MBF). I use a Lyman M die in station 2 and a regular dillon powder die. Got rid of all the clunking/sticking. I also do not use any case lube. That's interesting. I'm not loading alll pre-processed brass (size/decap, swaged, u-die resized) and just pulled the decapping stem from Station 2 as it wasn't doing anything other than breaking pins if I got an upside down or toppled case. An M-die seems like a better plan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ano Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 station 1= brass is inserted station 2= sizeing station 3= expand on top, swage below. just so everyone is on the same page. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beastly Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 Station 3 - (1) hold case in place, (2) expand if you have the right swage backup rod installed. I don't use it for (2). I just went to the press and checked a sized case and a cut-away 9mm case I use to adjust the swage backup rod. The swage backup rod is set deep enough to support the case against the upward pressure from the swage rod and I can't see setting it any deeper. Yes, the swage backup rod is roughly 9mm diameter at the top, and it easily slides into the case mouth. I see the expanded area, maybe 0.356" (hard to measure without removing the backup rod). No, it didn't expand the case mouth enough for me to manually insert a 9mm 135 grain polymer coated Bayou Bullet (0.356"). Maybe it would work with 0.355" or jacketed bullets. So I still think you need a M-die, Dillon or MBF powder funnel to properly expand the case mouth. Am I missing something? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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