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I no like the flat FSS trigger (Partial rant)


Flash74

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Maybe it is just me, but I dont like the flat trigger. I had a polymer FSS trigger in my 40 pro and never had an issue. I swapped in the flat trigger over the winter and it certainly felt different but dry fired the same as the polymer trigger. I went to the range a week before my first USPSA match this year and sighted in a new scope on my 3gun rifle and put 50 rounds through my 40 pro. It ran fine as it always had. I get to my first match and on the very first stage I drew and clicked. Tap rack and bang went the next round and the rest of the stage was a series of clicks and remedial action drills. I switched the 13lb spring for a 15lb and the gun ran OK for the rest of the day. My next match the 15lb spring was not enough and had to switch to the factory spring. WHAT IS GOING ON? My previously perfect pro 40 is causing me grief. My only change since last year is the flat trigger addition. Not the whole kit, only the trigger, I already had the kit in the gun and it ran flawlessly.

I switched the gun back to the polymer trigger and it has run flawlessly. I put the 13lb spring back in it and I am a happy camper. A weekend of 400 rounds without a malfunction gave me trust in my 40. I love my 40 pro again. Curse you flat trigger, I tried to like you but you stabbed me in my back. Its off to the classifieds for you. Maybe I dont know how to adjust the candy cane or my pistol has a wacky tolerance, but I can't get it to run well in my 40. I guess I don't get to be one of the cool kids .

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This is NOT authored by me. Someone else deserves the credit but it solved my problems:

>>>Trigger Bar adjustment.

There are a few different things that can cause light strikes with the M&P's. Usually when someone does a trigger job they don't account for the difference in timing when the trigger bar pushes up the striker block plunger verses when the sear drops the striker. The easiest way to test if you have a sear drop v.s. striker block timing issue is to take the striker out and use a sharpie marker to fully black out the striker block leg on the striker. Then put the striker back in and dry fire the gun at least 10 - 15 times. Then pull the striker back out and look at the striker block leg where you marked it to see if any of the marker has been rubbed off. If it has then the striker block leg is catching on the striker block plunger as it is coming forward to strike the primer. When it does this it will take a lot of striking force out of the forward motion of the striker and you end up with a light strike. You can fix this timing issue by changing the height of the striker block leg were it engages the striker block plunger. The goal is to have the striker block leg totally clearing the striker block plunger when the striker comes forward.

Since every pistol is a little different and everyone likes a different depth of trigger pull there isn't a universal depth to cut the striker block leg on the striker. This needs to be precision tuned for each pistol when doing a proper trigger job. If you don't feel up to the task of doing this properly yourself, let a competent gunsmith do it for you. <<<
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in full disclosure, I recently switched from my M&P 9mm to and STI Edge.

That being said, I put a flat trigger in my M&P. It did take a bit to get it adjusted, especially the trigger bar. That said, Apex was very helpful in getting it up to speed. Did take a bit more than I was hoping for. But it is certainly dialed in now.

But once adjusted, it is awesome. A measured 2.5 lb trigger pull that is clean and crisp.. Just like a 1911 trigger. Well, as close as you can get it. I really like the trigger and if you are a 1911 shooter trying to shoot the M&P, I am pretty sure you will like it once adjusted.

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I had some issues with my FFT at first, but Apex was great in working with me to get it right. Works like a charm now. I too, have an Edge, but prefer shooting my M&P 40 Pro for limited. Shooting the Edge is like dancing with a fat girl, compared to shooting my M&P!!!

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