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New CZ Tactical Sport 9 owner, trigger reset question


mk77

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I just got a new 9mm CZ Tactical Sport. I've only had a chance to put a few rounds through it, but so far has been great. Awesome trigger, accurate (although I think I want a fiber front eventually), can't wait for a match.

So, I've been shooting a 1911 for a while now, and I'm used to that trigger.

What I have noticed is that the trigger reset on my 1911 is shorter than the TS. I have found that trying to do faster follow up shots with the TS, I sometimes don't let the trigger go far enough forward to reset. When that happens I think it is a reflex to take a quick glance to see if there is a problem with the gun, and then I realize I just need to let the trigger go forward just a bit more. I guess just habits from shooting something different for a long time?

I'm sure after enough rounds through the new gun I'll get used to it. I was wondering if the trigger reset can be shortened on the TS, or is that not possible due to the light trigger on it? Does the metal trigger have the same movement as the factory plastic one? It looks a little different.

Is the difference in reset just the nature of the "hinged" CZ trigger vs the straight-back 1911?

Thanks

Mike

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Have you adjusted the trigger with the set screws yet? Won't physically lessen the actual reset but if you limit over travel you won't have to lift your finger as far to get there.

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The metal trigger is adjustable for take up and over travel. It will not help with the reset. I think there must be some variation in the guns, because my reset is shorter than on my 1911.

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I agree with zzt get the metal trigger with overtravel screw to limit movement of trigger. I also recommend getting CGW competition hammer, TRS, adjustable sear and Type 3 "hand fit" disconnector. Same concept as the overtravel screw. The disconnector won't change the reset point but will eliminate almost all of the pre-travel. You want to leave a little pre-travel for reliability. All these changes are very simple to do. David at CGW is very helpful and will get you squared away. If you want to send him you pistol he might be able to change the reset point around 1.5mm vs 2-2.5mm. My recommendation is not worry about getting that last .5mm-1mm reset. Get the other parts and install them yourself, if you are comfortable, and dryfire/practice. Couple of session and your muscle memoir will learn the new reset point.

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Like Garmil said,

While the overtravel screw adjustment does not shorten "reset" it does shorten how far forward the trigger has to swing forward to start the reset process.... so make sure you have it adjusted for very little overtravel. It may end up feeling like shorter reset.

If its not that, yes its the nature of the beast on a factory CZ and some tuning may be in order to max it out. It can be made VERY short.

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brisix, you are not thinking about Tactical Sports. It is SA only. Plastic trigger has also overtravel screw. Aluminium trigger is better because it flexes less and there is different models for different lenght of pull.

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The Czechmate hammer is the best I've tried for a light pull and short reset:

Before:

IMG_20130505_211009_284_zps08304186.jpg

IMG_20130920_200539_675-1_zps6b238dbc.jp

After. Both are with a ~18# hammer spring, I have the occasional light strike with the 15# spring, CCI SRP and stock firing pin, I have a 24# spring on order from Wolff just to try...

IMG_20130920_203619_591-1_zpsb588095d.jp

IMG_20130920_203651_347-1_zps31dd3f4f.jp

IMG_20130920_203700_312-1_zps16060ab4.jp

Before I install a hammer, I hit the sides and the hooks with 3000 grit sand paper, then roll up a little piece of 1000 grit and pull it through the pin hole.

IMG_20130920_201053_325-1_zpsa53d75fc.jp

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I moved them a little. I will try again, I didn't have instructions or a guide at the time, so I was a bit conservative in messing with them. I found a quick writeup about them, I will try later and see what happens. After reading this, I think my issue will be helped some if the overtravel gets adjusted.

Thanks!

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Here's what you need to do when adjusting overtravel: with the trigger all the way back against the stop, thumb the hammer back and forth, if you can feel it touch the sear, back the screw out; it'll give you reliable operation and save your sear from premature wear.

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Thank you for the help. It is definitely better now, it didn't take much to improve. Not quite the same as my 1911, but closer now! Some more trigger time and I'm sure I'll get used to it. Right out of the box this new TS is really good, and I'm not good enough with it yet to justify having anything else done to it....

Since I moved the screws from their factory setting, what is the best way to keep them there? I've read a bunch of stuff about them backing out, I was just going to use a small dab of removable locktite. Also, of the 2 screws, which one has the tendency to work loose first?

Thanks

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  • 1 month later...

The Czechmate hammer is the best I've tried for a light pull and short reset:

Before:

IMG_20130505_211009_284_zps08304186.jpg

IMG_20130920_200539_675-1_zps6b238dbc.jp

After. Both are with a ~18# hammer spring, I have the occasional light strike with the 15# spring, CCI SRP and stock firing pin, I have a 24# spring on order from Wolff just to try...

IMG_20130920_203619_591-1_zpsb588095d.jp

IMG_20130920_203651_347-1_zps31dd3f4f.jp

IMG_20130920_203700_312-1_zps16060ab4.jp

Before I install a hammer, I hit the sides and the hooks with 3000 grit sand paper, then roll up a little piece of 1000 grit and pull it through the pin hole.

IMG_20130920_201053_325-1_zpsa53d75fc.jp

What is the factory TS hammer spring weight? I have searched but I can't find a definite answer.
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