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issues with 4# striker spring on Glock 35


evilbeef54

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Hey guys, totally new to custom guns. Trying to soak up all the info possible. Here is my current issue.

I have a new gen 3 Glock 35 (less than 1k rounds) with the ghost evo elite 3.5 trigger, polished connector and associated parts, reduced power safety plunger spring, polished safety plunger, 6lb trigger spring, lone wolf ss polished guide rod w/13# spring, and stock striker

I tried dropping in the 4# striker spring since this will be a uspsa only gun and i will be using federal match primers.

The issue is with the 4# spring the trigger reset is terrible. If i dryfire and go slow on the reset it will not fully reset, to the point where the trigger safety will not reset allowing the trigger to move rearward and the gun to fire with out contact with the trigger safety.

I know others are running this spring, any thoughts on what is up, EDIT** IT IS NOT the reduced power plunger spring, Something else?

Going back to the stock trigger spring didnt help either

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First thing I've seen happen, are you sure the trigger spring is hooked on the trigger bar properly? When twisting the trigger bar to get the cruciform back into the trigger housing, the end of the trigger spring will sometimes move to the side, and spring gets pinched between the housing and trigger bar.

Second, check the connector angle in relationship to the housing.

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The trigger spring appears to be in correctly and not pinching. Also i think the angle on the connector is fine, i checked it with a piece of paper like the instructions said. I can try to tweak it in a touch and see if it helps.

It is really close to fully reseting and re-engaging the trigger safety but not quite there. Maybe something in the slide assembly?

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Make sure there is no pinching/slipping of the spring and it getting sandwiched between housing and trigger bar....double check, make sure! Is trigger spring installed correctly, it should make an "S" when looking from the right side of housing (google image if you don't know what I'm referring to).

Does this happen with the factory connector?

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S shape, checked, and checked again. The spring rides nice and square in the pocket with no binding. When moving the assembly manually while out of the gun the only area of binding tension is where the housing makes that step up toward the front half. I triple checked the connector angle using a piece of paper as per the ghost instructions. When i reassemble the gun there is a slight bit of tension where the bump in the connector meets the back cap of the slide. All of this may be normal, but i am always looking for areas that can be smoothed out. I have been working on custom build competition paintball guns since the early 90s so i am used to respringing and eliminating tiny burrs to get things running smooth.

How much friction should there be on the striker assembly, specificity the plastic sleeve when installing it into the slide. I may be able to take another degree or of the connector, but since i am shooting a match on sat i will wait on that. i am trying to check the slide assembly as well to see if there are any issues there. Honestly i am kinda disappointed at how the top end slides on. When reassembling i get the back of the slide to about the mag well before the slide shifts to the right a few degrees, then it comes back with a little help when it gets to the aft rails.... binds again when the connector enters the slide. when taking it apart there are a few more trigger pulls and shaking/jerking required than normal but it does come apart

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Does it bind with factory connector? I'm not huge fan of ghost products. When you put slide back on, it should be very easy, slides straight back. You should not have to wiggle side to side or navigate slide in order for upper verticle extension of connector to guide through the back plate.

The striker assembly goes into slide with little resistance. Most of resistance should be the initial inserting of the assembly into slide....the striker spring straightens out a bit in striker channel, causing resistance.

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ok, sorry that took a while to get back to you, work was a bit crazy, and finally got to shoot a match today. I just had the 5.5# stock spring in to make sure nothing went wrong

so i tried swapping back to the stock connector just now. It still wont fully reset the trigger to the point of re-engaging the trigger safey if i go slow on the reset with the 4# striker spring. Basically the exact same thing with the stock or the ghost evo 3.5, it resets 99.999% of the way there but needs a little push forward to fully reset, i have taken out and cleaned the assembly numberous times. wiped down the striker and spring, got into the striker chamber with q-tips, even tried the ghost maratime spring cups (figured less surface area might be the trick. When i go to insert the striker it feels like there is some tension when the assembly starts to enter the chamber, it goes it with out issue, just doesnt feel as smooth as it should/maybe could. It doesnt really take any real force, but it sure doesnt seem to go smoothly either, starting here:

20150425_232305.jpg

that is with the stock cups and 4# spring it just feels a little gritty going in. That makes me think it is part of the issue, This sounds like the area you are talking about, i just dont know why i would be having troubles with the reset if this is normal?

Both the stock and 3.5 ghost evo connector failed to fully reset the trigger

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huh, ok so to add to things, i tried the maritime cups with the stock spring, they seemed even tighter trying to get the stiker into the gun, an i got the same results with the stock srtiker spring, stock connector, and just the maritime cups. This is leading me to thing there is something with the striker spring chamber?!?!?!

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Tried the stock return spring w/ the ghost connector, tried the stock connector with the ghost spring. The only combo i havent tried it stock everything with the 4# striker spring. However, i dont think i should have to do that. It should be able to work with everything.... i think

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Tried the stock return spring w/ the ghost connector, tried the stock connector with the ghost spring. The only combo i havent tried it stock everything with the 4# striker spring. However, i dont think i should have to do that. It should be able to work with everything.... i think

Or try stock striker spring (i know,i know) with the Ghost everything else. Worth a try.

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yup, that is how i have been running it for the last 1.5 months stock 5.5 striker spring with ghost everthing else. It works, i just cant figure out why the 4# spring wont..... also on a side note, anyone else had trouble with the maratime cups, i figured less surface area= less resistance, so hopefully sucess... but no, they were even tighter than the stock cups and would bind up the stock striker spring, so that was a step backwards...

but yes, 5.5# striker and lighter everything else works, i just know i can/should be able to get that 4# working as it is supposed to, kinda frusterating

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I dont have a magwell yet, ordering one in the next few days, i just moved to L-10 yesterday.

it could be the trigger is tight in there, any thoughts on what to do about that?

i have already polished the bar and all other metal on metal connections, i could maybe polish the inside of the locking block?

ok i could just say screw it and live with the 5.5# striker spring... but that just isnt in my nature, i want things to work correctly... honestly i am fine with the 5.5 if i have to BUT i am not fine with the fact that it wont work with the 4# when it should. Too OCD for that, lol

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Do not say screw it and try to live with the 5.5 lb spring haha, we'll figure it out eventually.

With the slide off, pushing the trigger forward and backwards, is it smooth? Is it pivoting well/smoothly on the trigger pin? Is the trigger pin bent? Slide catch installed properly to not effect trigger pin?

Installed, when you pull back on striker lug, is it smooth? The spring cups installed correctly so the end of spring isn't on the end/edge of cup?

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Do not say screw it and try to live with the 5.5 lb spring haha, we'll figure it out eventually.

With the slide off, pushing the trigger forward and backwards, is it smooth? Is it pivoting well/smoothly on the trigger pin? Is the trigger pin bent? Slide catch installed properly to not effect trigger pin?

Installed, when you pull back on striker lug, is it smooth? The spring cups installed correctly so the end of spring isn't on the end/edge of cup?

LOL, i dont think i would be able to leave it alone it i wanted to i would probably have a stroke ok here we go:

trigger feels smooth moving back and forth, it pivots and goes to full motion with no rough spots, grinding, gritty, or warped feeling. Trigger pin does not appear to be bent, and the gun in new (less than 1k rounds)

i have dissassembled and reassembled it numerous times, so i dont think the slide catch is the issue unless i installed it incorrect every time, but i dont think i did, everything seems to function well.

when the top end is assembled the striker cycles smooth by hand. it i hold the slide vertically with the barrel down, i can push the safety plunger and the striker will fall into firing position on it's own. i can move it back to retract the striker till it seats with no pressure, i can cycle it through its full range of motion smoothly with no rough spots felt

checked and rechecked the spring placement on the cups the end of the spring is not on the joints

Have you checked the channel liner?

i'm not sure how else to check it besides getting in there with a q-tip and clean the best i can, what else should i be checking

^^^^^EDIT

i MAY have had a small positive gain, i polished the inside of the locking block a bit last night, that seems to have helped a LITTLE, i am now down to about a 12-20% failure to fully re-engage the trigger safety on a slow reset, i will get in there and polish a bit more and see if that helps, but PLEASE by all means, anything else you think will help please let me know, i want to get this running as good and as SAFE as possible

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Nevermind that edit.... tried a lil more polish, back to 100% fail rate, not sure the trigger is the issue, or at least that part of it

It is so close to being there, like less then a hair movement, the slightest touch on the back of the trigger resets it, something is just not quite there YET

***edit #8,746

I THINK possibly, i may be able to say with a small level of certainty victory. I tried several more different angle bends on the connector feeling how that changed it, still was damn close but just not quite there, i went back to the stock trigger spring AGAIN, and now it it seems to be working. I just had about 20 times in a row of manually cycling and dry firing and it fully engaged. I am still a bit concerned on how close to the edge of the line functioning it is, i am concerned that once i dirty it up shooting it i may run into issues, i have a few more days of practice before my next match so we shall see.

again if anyone has any other ideas on what to check/adjust/improve i would love to hear it, it is still a little too close to the line for my comfort

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Highly doubt channel liner is issue. If it was scratched/gouged/damaged, the striker wouldn't be sliding smooth as it is currently.

You say you have been toying around with connector angle....is this with factory or the ghost?

When trigger immediately resets, is it very tactile and audible, it should be.

Have you tried using a different trigger bar?

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Highly doubt channel liner is issue. If it was scratched/gouged/damaged, the striker wouldn't be sliding smooth as it is currently.

You say you have been toying around with connector angle....is this with factory or the ghost?

When trigger immediately resets, is it very tactile and audible, it should be.

Have you tried using a different trigger bar?

I was trying very tiny changes in the angle on the ghost connector

yes with the stock trigger spring in it is a very solid and audible reset, even if i go slow, with the ghost 6# trigger spring and the 4# striker spring it is not as solid, especially when i go slow

EDIT

actually i guess that is not quite correct, with the 6# trigger spring it is still a solid and audible reset but after the click it just doesnt have the strength to get the rest of that tinny lil .001mm to fully reset the trigger safety. the trigger safety pokes about 1/2 way out but wont click into place so you could fire again with just touching the side of the trigger

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With the trigger all the way out, is there a small gap between trigger safety and frame? There should be, if not it's out of spec and that could be problem. I would not use the ghost trigger spring. Use factory or different brand heavier trigger spring if you must have heavier spring. Many use factory trigger spring....much more reliable and the heavier trigger spring only decreases pull marginally.

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Ok thanks, i will check that out when i get home tonight. It seems to be working with the stock spring right now. It wasn't before, but now it is. It seems to be reliable, it resets firm, it still is just a tad bit weak on re-engagement of the trigger safety, it does it now, just wouldn't mind it reseting a little more solid.

I will check for that gap, should i look internal or external for that?

Again, i appreciate the help

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