Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

1050 Primer Problems - Rubber Band Mod


Recommended Posts

d78486a76dccc14b60914cc80869f369.jpgI have read about everything I have come across on adjusting the primer system. I cant seem to get a consistent adjustment that will allow the slide bar to go all the way underneath the shell plate. After pulling it in the rest of the way manually for a number of rounds I had a rubber band laying around and came up with this. Ive adjusted all I know how to adjust. Is it possible the springs on the system arent strong enough to make full motion? Any advice is appreciated, I would hate for the rubber band to be permanent. Thanks!

Firerarms, Parts and Accessories

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have a look at the bolt that holds the ratchet in place - part number 12486, page 27 of the manual - this activates the primer lever.

I had to replace 4 of mine, they were all grooved from wear.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I hold that world cup for the most primer problems on a Dillon S1050.

Between Dillon and I we got this fixed.

Dillon now has a new Small Primer slide bar. Instead of the little rubber vacuum hose that would not stay on the replaced it with a brass roller bearing. This is a beautiful thing. No rubbing, doubt if you can wear it out. Then here is another things I did,

The primer slide bar that the arm moved forward and back has to glide like glass, very smooth. Also the channel this slides in should be polished tool marks removed and making a slick smooth surface. Making sure also that the primer 12386 bar is ok. That done has fixed my problem. Now we need someone to come forward and take the cup..... How about you.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am happy to report the 1050 ran smoothly tonight on a 100 or so rounds without the Rubber Band Mod. The last rounds I loaded a couple days ago I felt like everything was running smooth but I left the rubber band on. Tonight I had to clear out a primer jam and I took toolhead off, primer tube, and slidebar. Removed crunched primer, reassembled everything but didnt put rubber band back on. Everything went smooth on the few rounds I needed to finish up on. Maybe Im through the break in phase.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

Have a look at the bolt that holds the ratchet in place - part number 12486, page 27 of the manual - this activates the primer lever.

I had to replace 4 of mine, they were all grooved from wear.

Resurrecring this thread. I tore primer system down 3 times this morning to clean everything out. I may have to go back to my rubber band!

I am on my 2nd 12486. Its getting a pretty good groove in it. Should these see this much wear? At this rate I need to order them by the pound.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the primer slide from a 650 now has the brass roll pin sleeve. they are $90 if you buy one. i have replaced the rubber sleeve dillon sells for the primer slide roll pin with a much sturdier silicone tubing that you get at an rc car store. $1 a foot and waaaayyy stronger than the rubber piece from dillon.

also check the primer feed tube orifice. if yours is messed up, worn, loose, squashed you will have incessant primer problems on a 1050. again, in newer machines this is replaced with brass instead of plastic. it also no longer has an index tab on the brass orifice so you can just drop it in and not line it up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What kind of silicone rubber is stronger than neoprene? You sure it's silicone? Silicone is NOT a strong material.

Now, a nice UHDPE tube would be good.

I live in the world where I want to solve the problem, but I would keep the rubber band around.

I have had few primer problems on my 1050s, and most of those were more my fault.

If a part shows wear, replace it.

I thought Dillon included the springs (13936 and 13844) in the spare parts kit?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I broke the bolt being discussed a couple posts above, replaced it with ah stainless bolt with a shoulder on it (cut the head off) until the replacement showed up. It's sole function seems to be to get the primer slide in one of it's two index points, forward enough that the index rod on the toolhead can grab it and line it up properly with the shell plate or rearward enough to get the next primer. Before mine broke it was grooved quite deeply and still managed to work just fine. I think there must be something else at play here to be causing the slide to not go far enough forward.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the rubber primer slide roll pin thingy from dillon lasts months, i seem to chew through one every 3 or 4. i am using whatever i bought at the rc car store in that size. it feels considerably more robust, it is fuel line.

i also replaced the springs that go on the primer slide actuation arm, the ones on the cotter pin.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What kind of silicone rubber is stronger than neoprene? You sure it's silicone? Silicone is NOT a strong material.

Now, a nice UHDPE tube would be good.

I live in the world where I want to solve the problem, but I would keep the rubber band around.

I have had few primer problems on my 1050s, and most of those were more my fault.

If a part shows wear, replace it.

I thought Dillon included the springs (13936 and 13844) in the spare parts kit?

Im not sure which number it is, but it looks like the longer spring is included in the parts kit. The short one may be as well, but I didn't open it up and get everything out to look. I may play with the cotter pin before I replace the springs. Seems to me its length could vary from being installed.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...