Sear Spring question

[bountyhunter]

True, but I also get a lot of use from the pull gauge using the weigand extractor tension gauges. I end up fixing a bunch of people's 1911's and my pull gauge gets a lot of use.

They're little brass pieces you slide under the extractor (slide removed) and then pull out with a pull gauge to see how much extractor tension there is.

+1 Definitely worth the money.

[bountyhunter]

Get a trigger pull gauge on your order so you can go in small increments (testing along the way).

or make your own by duct-taping a ziploc bag to a plastic coat hanger. I just keep putting bullets in the bag until the trigger breaks, repeat a couple times, then weight the whole mess (coat hangar included). It gets repeatable accurate results on the cheap for folks that only do this sort of thing once or twice.

Or use a luggage scale with a hook if you got one handy. My luggage scale was accurate enough to measure the 6 lb pull on my stock Rock Island .45 and the lightened 4.25 lb pull after I installed the C&S drop-in kit.

From what I read on the S&W E-Series, it was supposed to have a stock 4 lb trigger pull. What happened to the OP's E-series gun?

Way back in the day, I calibrated a plastic milk jug with lines showing pound and half pound increments where I added water until the trigger broke. You can use dental floss for a "loop" to put around the trigger.

[ArrDave]

Get a trigger pull gauge on your order so you can go in small increments (testing along the way).

or make your own by duct-taping a ziploc bag to a plastic coat hanger. I just keep putting bullets in the bag until the trigger breaks, repeat a couple times, then weight the whole mess (coat hangar included). It gets repeatable accurate results on the cheap for folks that only do this sort of thing once or twice.

Or use a luggage scale with a hook if you got one handy. My luggage scale was accurate enough to measure the 6 lb pull on my stock Rock Island .45 and the lightened 4.25 lb pull after I installed the C&S drop-in kit.

From what I read on the S&W E-Series, it was supposed to have a stock 4 lb trigger pull. What happened to the OP's E-series gun?

I'm supposed to receive my spings tomorrow. Between the C&S sear spring and a hammer spring kit I can hopefully bring it down into the 4's.

[ArrDave]

I put the new C&S light pull sear spring in it (the left two leaves of the spring have a weird relief cut into them) and a 19# mainspring. Trigger pull I'm betting now is just under 4#. Nowhere near as nice a trigger pull as my Valor still, but a much better facsimile for it than it was in the stock configuration.

If I had to bet, it was all in the sear spring. The grip safety was exceptionally stiff with the stock spring installed and the angle on the safety leaf did not look much different from the C&S spring that went in. Now, the grip safety feels nearly identical to my Valor where it depresses easier. Previously the beavertail had to be engaged just so to reliably get the hammer to fall, and once every 50 or so dry draws I would flub my grip to the point I'd need to re position slightly. Hopefully I can go test it today.

All in all $20 well spent (got the 3 pack of wolff mainsprings since the 19# mainspring was out of stock everywhere)

Edited April 22, 2015 by ArrDave

[ArrDave]

UPDATE: Tested it at the range and it didn't go full auto, cycled fine, touched off all of my CCI primers I asked it to. All is good.

Used the trigger pull gauge at the range (Lyman digital) and it ranged from a low of 3#10 to a high of 4#00.5 with most falling between 3#12 and 3#14

[OPENB]

I dropped an Extreme Engineering hammer, sear, disconnector ultralight kit (same as the Cylinder & Slide), 17# mainspring, and an EGW sear spring into my Para Pro Comp couple days ago. 3# pull. The EE 3 piece kit is cheaper than C&S, & in stock at Shooters Connection. Cheaper than paying for a trigger job & no wait.

[magpulled]

I dropped an Extreme Engineering hammer, sear, disconnector ultralight kit (same as the Cylinder & Slide), 17# mainspring, and an EGW sear spring into my Para Pro Comp couple days ago. 3# pull. The EE 3 piece kit is cheaper than C&S, & in stock at Shooters Connection. Cheaper than paying for a trigger job & no wait.

^^^^ this is what I did and s little fluffing on the seat and hammer hooks and its averaging 2.5 lbs

Brazos has a link about how it all works too and it helped me a lot. I'll try to dig it up and post it.

[magpulled]

http://www.brazoscustom.com/magart/0407.htm

[ArrDave]

http://www.brazoscustom.com/magart/0407.htm

Thanks for that. That will help me on my way to being a total hack pistolsmith!

I dropped an Extreme Engineering hammer, sear, disconnector ultralight kit (same as the Cylinder & Slide), 17# mainspring, and an EGW sear spring into my Para Pro Comp couple days ago. 3# pull. The EE 3 piece kit is cheaper than C&S, & in stock at Shooters Connection. Cheaper than paying for a trigger job & no wait.

I'll check that out.

[Slide4949]

I replaced the hammer, sear,sear spring and disconnector ( EGW ignition kit) on a infinity open gun but now the spring will just barely touch the sear and after working it a few time falls of the sear and hammer will not stay back. I have bent the spring fork that rest on sear forward and back but does not make any difference. Any idea what might be wrong?

Edited February 17, 2018 by Slide4949

[OrondoShooter]

Brownell's has a great guide, but requires their tools. If your looking for an evening hobby to pick up. Download both of the Jerry Kuhnhausen 1911 shop PDFs and Google our polishing and stoning options. 

[zzt]

S, not all manufacturers follow the same specs.  The EGW kit comes with a standard Colt sear spring.  Match it against your old SVI spring.  More than likely, the sear leg of the SVI is longer, so you may have to use an SVI spring.