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recoil spring feel?


jbultman

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I'm thinking about lightening the recoil spring in my Gen 4 34. Don't really know what weight to go with, thinking 13# or 15#. But what do those feel like as compared to the stock 17#?

thanks

Edited by jbultman
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I went to a 13 in my Gen 3 34 and it was really noticeable and felt great. I believe with the Gen 4's you will want to go to the adapter thingy to use a single spring like the older guns. I recommend uncaptured with steel rod.

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Jaeger makes one where you don't need an adapter. However... What difference was there? What did it feel like? What did you like about it?

First thing I noticed was less movement of the gun since a lot of the "felt" recoil of the gun comes from the slide slamming closed under a heavy spring. So the sights came back quicker.

Then it became easier to run weak competition loads since the ejection was better with the increased slide speed.

And it was much easier to rack. :)

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Thanks Sarge! That's exactly what I was looking for... I think I'm going to pull the trigger (no pun intended) and purchase some springs and recoil rod. I think I'm going to go with #13 and #15. Don't know which one I will like, do you concur with the weights?

Sarge I live right by KI, been shooting idpa for a little while. Just getting into uspsa. You planning on having your match still this Month with all the wet weather, I'm thinking about coming down? Also what other uspsa clubs are around this area that aren't too far of a drive?

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10# would be for me.

10 pounds in a glock? They barely run on 11's.

Yes, 10# spring will run. It's the same for a 9mm full size 1911. Both have similar barrel length. And yes, I'm running it in my Glock.

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10# would be for me.

10 pounds in a glock? They barely run on 11's.
Yes, 10# spring will run. It's the same for a 9mm full size 1911. Both have similar barrel length. And yes, I'm running it in my Glock.
first I have heard of that. Interesting
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10# would be for me.

10 pounds in a glock? They barely run on 11's.
Yes, 10# spring will run. It's the same for a 9mm full size 1911. Both have similar barrel length. And yes, I'm running it in my Glock.
first I have heard of that. Interesting
Same here. I usually hear of people running 13 or 15 lb springs.
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10# would be for me.

10 pounds in a glock? They barely run on 11's.

Yes, 10# spring will run. It's the same for a 9mm full size 1911. Both have similar barrel length. And yes, I'm running it in my Glock.

But a glock only has a recoil spring. A 1911 has a recoil spring and mainspring.

None of these comments here can help you if nobody has asked about your load. If you want the correct spring you need to match it to your gun and your load. Best to order a few, shoot bill drills and see where your hits are. 11, 13 and 15 would be good to try.

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I'm running freedom munitions 124 gr remanufactured. I ordered 13# and 17#. I have a buddy who is going to lend me his 13# and 15# to see what I like the best.... I am planning on going to the range when I get them to figure out which I like the best!

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I ended up getting the springs and recoil rod in on Saturday morning. I put the 13# spring in and went to shoot a steel match. The first stage I was more concerned about making sure the gun functioned properly, but after that... WOW! That thing flew; it was smooth, no malfunctions. My follow up shots were faster, I could track the sights easier, the recoil was softer and I ended up finishing 9th in stock auto out of 80ish. I was pretty happy with that performance considering it was my first steel match and i was working with a new spring and recoil rod.... Thanks fur the help all!!

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The reason why most folks don't run 10# springs has nothing to do with the gun "not running", per se, in the "feeding/chambering/ejection/extraction" sense.

The issue that most run into with super-light springs is that the slide will push back when the trigger is pulled because the Firing Pin Spring is stronger than the light recoil spring. When that happens, the quality of the trigger job goes straight to hell (assuming that it will even drop the Firing Pin). In extreme cases, it'll push back so far that when the trigger bar cams down off the connector, it'll just let the slide close again and the Firing Pin will not be cocked far enough and it won't light a primer.

I have gotten a gun to run on an 11, but 13# was more reliable, so I use that as my "go-to" now....

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I'm sure the guy knows what he is talking about, but I wouldn't be running a 10 lb spring in my Gen 4 34. I'm running a 13 ISMI spring on a captured Jager steel guide rod with ammo loaded to 130-133 PF. It works well and a new Glock 17 lb spring does not reliably cycle with this load. It will when used a good bit.

I would not run the 13 lb spring with factory ammo that is higher PF, most of it over 140. You can beat your gun to death and screw up the timing extraction/ejection/insertion cycle. It is important to remember (or know) that recoil spring force is not an independent variable. It has to work with the striker spring force and mag spring force to properly time the cycle that occurs at breakneck speed. It also is the force resisting pulling the gun out of battery when pulling the trigger. Personally I like the OEM striker spring so I have to be careful with reduced recoil springs.

My concern now is how much leeway I have for spring force loss over time. Not much I expect. So I am experimenting with the 15 lb spring to give me a little extra security on maintaining battery. Don';t exactly know results yet.

Bottom line I wouldn't be messing with the RSA unless I knew for sure I was using low PF ammo and that the change worked with the other springs in the gun. You can really mess up something you do not understand.

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