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650 aftermarket upgrades?


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Never being able to leave well enough alone

I skipped right over that part originally. I generally don't change anything if it is already doing what I want. In any case if your getting a new 650 I would use it stock for awhile. If you decide down the road you want to make changes, make them one at a time so you can see and feel how the change effects the operation of the press.

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Quick question, is there a way to stop the primer disc from spinning at any giving time? Or does it always have to spin and just drop any live primer in that tray?

^^Found the answer to that in the tips & tricks thread.


When I finish my loading session and run out of primers, I usually size and deprime a couple of extra pieces of brass and put them under my strong mount. I use these when I have a misfeed from the case feeder and the shellplate had advanced. There is a primer ready to use with no brass to put it in. I take one of the pre-sized and deprimed brass from under the press and place it in the primer station, correct my feed problem and keep reloading.

What I do when I have a primer waiting is to lift the primer advancing arm during the down stroke. That way, the primer does not advance.

I find it real easy to just remove the primer cam. Remove one hex head screw, and you can cycle your press as often as you want and the primer disk won't advance.

When you start a reloading session, you cycle the press to get a case in station one, put the primer cam back, and you're back to priming cases!

Edited by Henny
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When you start a reloading session, you cycle the press to get a case in station one, put the primer cam back, and you're back to priming cases!

If the primer wheel is empty with a case in station 1, you won't have primers for a number of strokes (8 IIRC, or is that how many left after the low primer alarm?).

In any case, you can cycle the primer indexing arm with you finger with the ram at the bottom of it's stroke and watch them come around, one at a time. It was by doing this that I realized that all I needed to to was to find a way to hold it back to stop indexing while cycling the ram up and down, thus the ziptie.

Edited by jmorris
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I just ordered a 650 last week from Brian, besides this forum are there some other good ones to gather information from? The anticipation is going to get me this week...

In a word, No. I've found that other handloading forums seem to be populated by people who constantly try to prove that their choice of another brand was correct by knocking Dillon and the people that use them. Apparently anyone who uses a Dillon likes wasting money. (according to the aforementioned naysayers) I think handloading is like shooting, it's the Indian, not the arrow, it's just easier with better arrows. :roflol:

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When you start a reloading session, you cycle the press to get a case in station one, put the primer cam back, and you're back to priming cases!

If the primer wheel is empty with a case in station 1, you won't have primers for a number of strokes (8 IIRC, or is that how many left after the low primer alarm?).

In any case, you can cycle the primer indexing arm with you finger with the ram at the bottom of it's stroke and watch them come around, one at a time. It was by doing this that I realized that all I needed to to was to find a way to hold it back to stop indexing while cycling the ram up and down, thus the ziptie.

Yeah I think it's 6 or 8 on the 650 before you have a primer sitting there. Actually I think it's 8. I usually fill primers, have cases fed. cycle press once (case now in S1), cycle again (Case is deprimed and moved to S2). I then pull it out from S2 and I tihnk I cycle the little bar by hand 6 times and there is now a primer there, replace the case PRIME IT. then start loading. :)

Jmorris has all the good idea. :) the zip tie to stop primers feeding is just another in a long line...

Edited by BeerBaron
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I just ordered a 650 last week from Brian, besides this forum are there some other good ones to gather information from? The anticipation is going to get me this week...

Basically been reading this site and watching youtube videos. I was in your shoes last week. Ordered mine from Brian and it is being delivered today. Most other sites do get into a blue vs red vs green debate at some point. My wife asked if she was going to see me at all this week...maybe if she comes down to the reloading room :devil:

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I just ordered a 650 last week from Brian, besides this forum are there some other good ones to gather information from? The anticipation is going to get me this week...

Basically been reading this site and watching youtube videos. I was in your shoes last week. Ordered mine from Brian and it is being delivered today. Most other sites do get into a blue vs red vs green debate at some point. My wife asked if she was going to see me at all this week...maybe if she comes down to the reloading room :devil:

I enjoy the reloading as much as the shooting. It's my one chance to completely forget about work and do something productive :)

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The O ring fix has made the biggest difference on my 650 loading 9mm.

A word of caution - you may need to adjust the depth of the groove the ring sits in to get perfect operation. Too tight a squeeze between the shell case and the pin can cause miss alignment and affect in my case , primer seating.

I'm telling all my colleagues to try it as it is worth it.

Thanks for putting it on here.

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I just ordered a 650 last week from Brian, besides this forum are there some other good ones to gather information from? The anticipation is going to get me this week...

Basically been reading this site and watching youtube videos. I was in your shoes last week. Ordered mine from Brian and it is being delivered today. Most other sites do get into a blue vs red vs green debate at some point. My wife asked if she was going to see me at all this week...maybe if she comes down to the reloading room :devil:

I just got my press a few months ago and that's what I did before I bought it. Talk to my buddy and read/lurk here. There is an overwhelming amount of knowledge on this forum.

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Well back to the original subject....I know you guys haven't slept since I ordered the fix 'em up kit for the 650.

Well it arrived via Amazon last week and was installed yesterday. This particular kit consists of a new phenolic ?? detent ball and an apparently lighter spring and the rod fitted with a roller on the end as opposed to the bevel used from the factory?

Installation......shell plate work a snap....how many times have I removed the shell plate ..a couple.

The rod......was a bit of a pain , but made perfect sense when it was installed...I measured the distance of the original rod prior to replacement...brilliant...for once.

Results..........my goal was to reduce or eliminate the plate snap which caused powder spilling. I was also trying to minimize the binding effect I was experiencing when the shell was actuall introduced into the shell plate. Much to my suprised after running about 12 loads throughout the unit..?.The darn thing is smoother..........and I seem to have greatly reduced the binding on the first stage.

I'll see how this holds up this weekend when another 2000 go down.

This is just my experience with the product...I have no idea how it will assist ant one else.....thanks

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I use this bearing between the bolt head and shell plate, never had a need to do anything else.bearing.jpg

I installed one of these, but it caused problems because it changed the angle of the ejector wire. The cases would hang up on the ejector gumming up the works. Any ideas on this?

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post-43781-142908909778_thumb.jpg

Just loaded a few more rounds and its just like having a shock absorber on the shell plate.

Zero bounce ! I'm wondering if another will help or hinder at the last station.

Edited by 400driver
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Agree with 400driver about case alignment and found #2 locator pin with Danco #5 o-ring in station 3 was best combination

Tried it with almost full 9mm cases of WSF and didn't lose a granual

Thanks for putting up that o-ring number. I'm gonna snag a set from the Depot.

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Meyer23

I found I had to use a #2 locator pin.

The #3 with the o rings I had was too tight and bound up against the shell plate causing the o ring to

slip off the locator pin

The Danco o ring set for under $10 at the Depot gives you all the o rings you will ever need and sizes from 5 - 21

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Meyer-

I had this problem and just filed the groove deeper until the friction was perfect for the plate.

I was just wizzing a loaded case around all the stations to see how fast I could do it.

Worked great till I missed it on the final spin and shot powder all over the bench- doh!

Edited by 400driver
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Meyer23

I found I had to use a #2 locator pin.

The #3 with the o rings I had was too tight and bound up against the shell plate causing the o ring to

slip off the locator pin

The Danco o ring set for under $10 at the Depot gives you all the o rings you will ever need and sizes from 5 - 21

What caliber were you loading? 9mm? If one is loading 45 ACP, I wonder what combination of locater pin and o-ring works the best. Anyone have experience with that combo?

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Truborshooter/400, thank you both. What #2 locator pins are you talking about? Mine has 3 #3 which is what came with it, did you guys order #2s or did they come with the press and I overlooked them? Or do they come with the larger caliber conversion kits? I'm still pretty new to reloading & essentially this is the only modification I want to make until I get more comfortable.

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