Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

FTF


Wesquire

Recommended Posts

My gun didn't blow up, but since the extreme 165's are longer than the BBI's they have an increased pressure in order to be at that 1.135. They feel a lot more snappy in the gun, and I like it a lot more.

Thats with the same amount of powder.

WJM

Edited by WJM
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 113
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Same weight of bullet for both of them, same powder charge.

I was expecting a very similar snap to them, but the only thing I can think of is seating them deeper?

WJM

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am shooting .40 Minor out of my Stock 2, so 165gr Extremes actually are pretty light compared to running 180 gr's out of it.

The 180's felt so light it was almost sluggish. I mean they were soft and very light, but too soft. Once I changed it my splits started to go faster, and honestly the gun just felt all around better.

WJM

Edited by WJM
Link to comment
Share on other sites

OHHHH, sorry, I totally missed you were shooting .40. That makes a lot more sense! You could always try 155's or 140's :goof: I've shot some .40 minor loads with 180's, they are incredible soft, but just feel straight up weird, lol.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The weird thing with 180 gr's is I couldn't for the life of me get faster than a .23 split out of it. It was almost like the slide was slower than my trigger finger. (I know how crazy this sounds but thats how it felt). Anyways when I would do Bill Drills or blake drills or anything like that I would end up being slower than I was with my Glock before I switched guns.

When I switched to 165's they helped with snap, and once I added that pressure (I assume thats what caused this) it gave it just enough kick to have the slide go as fast as I can pull the trigger. Now I can consistently get into the .18's and even a few .16's.

Overall very happy with Nealio's advice to move to Extremes. Even happier that a few of my friends in Utah who are sponsored by Extreme have 5% off discounts that make those bullets that much cheaper.

WJM

Link to comment
Share on other sites

FWIW....124 grain Xtreme Round Nose would fail to feed last round. 1.125" OAL

147 grain Leather Heads Truncated Nose would feel last round. 1.125" OAL

Even rotated last round to first round and it would feed. TN has more surface contact feeding on the tip?

11182133_10205426195910939_7203665424976

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I took my Stock III to range Saturday only for a little bit before the rain came and I'm shooting 147 bayous. I had a reduction in FTF's compared to previous trips and when they did FTF, I was able to tap the back of the slide and they went into battery. Any FTF issues is not good but being that they are reducing to me seems that I just need to get it broken in with another 500+ rounds hopefully. I added a little more crimp as well which may have helped. I'm ready for this thing to run 100% so I can start shooting matches. I'm hoping to have my backup Stock III done this week as far as new hammer and trigger job and test it and see if it does the same thing or it runs without any FTF from the get go

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I didn't read all of the posts in this thread, but I was wondering if you guys are actually tuning the depth of the extractor? Some of the pictures also show a fairly square bottom portion of the extractor hook. When I was shooting EAA/Tanfo blasters I always had to tune the extractor depth and the leading edge of the hook. I would set the extractor depth to just barely hold the brass against the side of the breach face. Then I would round the bottom portion of the extractor hook to promote the rim of the case getting under the extractor hook with the least possible friction.

If the extractor is tuned properly you should be able to hand rack rounds through the gun slowly and have ZERO "clunk" feeling or resistance as the rim of the brass slides up the breach face and under the extractor hook.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thought I had this issue solved. Took the gun to a match yesterday and it went through 4 stages clean no issues (that weren't my fault completely)

Got to stage 5, had 4 malfunctions on the one stage. Took my mags apart, cleaned them, checked the gun for issues I thought all was well.

Next stage I had 6 malfunctions, all with different mags, and one of them locked the gun up and almost wouldn't allow me to eject the bullet. I am past the point of sanity with this gun I just want to know what to do.

I put in a new extractor thinking this would help, it ran a few rounds in dry fire without an issue then the same issue happened again. Then I decided to make some bullets shorter, so I made some rounds at 1.115 OAL and they still had an issue.

I honestly don't know what the issue is, but if anyone knows a solution I would be forever in their debt.

Thanks,

WJM

Link to comment
Share on other sites

CHA-LEE- How did you set the extractor depth? I mean were you bending the extractor or filing on it?

You file on the nub that bottoms out on the pocket in the slide to increase the extractor depth. You can also file on the tip of the extractor hook to reduce the extractor depth.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thought I had this issue solved. Took the gun to a match yesterday and it went through 4 stages clean no issues (that weren't my fault completely)

Got to stage 5, had 4 malfunctions on the one stage. Took my mags apart, cleaned them, checked the gun for issues I thought all was well.

Next stage I had 6 malfunctions, all with different mags, and one of them locked the gun up and almost wouldn't allow me to eject the bullet. I am past the point of sanity with this gun I just want to know what to do.

I put in a new extractor thinking this would help, it ran a few rounds in dry fire without an issue then the same issue happened again. Then I decided to make some bullets shorter, so I made some rounds at 1.115 OAL and they still had an issue.

I honestly don't know what the issue is, but if anyone knows a solution I would be forever in their debt.

Thanks,

WJM

Try shooting factory ammo to see if the jams continue. If they don't then you know you have an issue with your reloads.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a new theory regarding this issue.

My thoughts are this, in my .40 it seems to get very very dirty and hard carbon build up on the feed ramp that is very difficult to remove. If I shoot more than around 100 rounds the carbon build up starts to happen. After looking down the magwell of the gun during one of these issues I realized that the edge of the brass wasn't touching the extractor or anywhere near the breach face as I had had originally thought. I think now that the extra carbon build up on the area between the feed ramp and the barrel, (the edge of the feed ramp? Don't know the name) was getting just enough build up to causing the round to get pushed up at too much of an angle.

Thoughts?

WJM

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have you tried using a round nose bullet? Sounds like an oversimplification, but I would try using a factory round nose load. I had a conversation today with another Tanfoglio shooter that had feeding problems disappear completely when he switched from a hollow point bullet to a round nose.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What crimp die and how much crimp are you running?

I wouldn't think a dirty feed ramp would cause issues. This is a 9mm though. Like i've mentioned this thing gets ridiculously dirty and still runs like a top.

20150504_231505.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well I stayed after our local USPSA Match Sunday and shot a little out of my new Stock III's. I shot my Stock II for the match which my OAL was 1.125 and I had a few feeding issues still in my primary Stock III. Still only about 400 rounds thru it so I would say it's not broken in.

I had some rounds that I shortened to 1.115 just for my Stock III's and I ran a few mags of them and no feeding issues. Also shot the first rounds of my backup Stock III which is the same setup except it's got a Titan hammer and not a single issue. Crazy thing is in this one I haven't polished the feed ramp or barrel hood like my first one. On another note I have the EG "Light" hammer spring with a coil cut and the Light FP spring with 2 coils cut and the Gen4 Henning FP and I've not had a single light strike in any of the roughly 500 rounds shot total in both pistols. I'm optimistic that using this combo will be reliable and the Delta/Titan hammers and Gen4 firing pin have counterbalanced the lighter springs. These springs with a coil cut are definitely the lightest and smoothest DA trigger pull I've gotten on any of my DA/SA Tanfos.

Also the new grips are AWESOME!!! I love the width and will definitely be getting another pair:-)

post-47835-143143161413_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1.125 has reliably fed thousands of rounds in my Stock II's. I figured it'd be good for my III's but going down just a little to the 1.110-1.115 range may work. I say may cuz I need to shoot more rounds before I say yes but so far that length seems to be ok but will come back after another 500+ rounds thru them with no FTF before I will say it's good to go:-)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



×
×
  • Create New...