Nealio Posted April 12, 2015 Share Posted April 12, 2015 Does the slide feel smooth when you rack it compared to your Stock II? One thing I've been forgetting to mention on some of these "what should I polish"'threads is that I polish the face of the hammer all the way around the radius at the top. This helps reduce drag on the side when going back into battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bayougump Posted April 12, 2015 Share Posted April 12, 2015 Does the slide feel smooth when you rack it compared to your Stock II? One thing I've been forgetting to mention on some of these "what should I polish"'threads is that I polish the face of the hammer all the way around the radius at the top. This helps reduce drag on the side when going back into battery. No, it's much tighter than my Stock II. My first II and Limited feel like they're on ball bearings. They both are silky smooth but I do remember when I first got my Limited it was almost a pain to rack but I figured just shooting major loads broke it in good. My II has prolly 10K rounds give or take. I've only polished the sides of the hammer. I'm gonna try that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgil275 Posted April 12, 2015 Share Posted April 12, 2015 (edited) Gump, curious if you are running the standard slide or long slide recoil springs?Come to find out I did have a short recoil spring in my III, not a long slide one. I was having these FTF before changing the spring but thanks for pointing that out as at least now I got a proper one installedGood to hear. Call it a lucky guess on my part. I did the same once . I also agree with Nealio, needs some more breaking in. The finish on the stock III isn't very good at friction reduction. Add in the longer slide and 9mm minor ammo, things just slow down. Keep running it well lubed and dirty, letting the carbon lap everything smooth. Edited April 12, 2015 by kgil275 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bayougump Posted April 12, 2015 Share Posted April 12, 2015 Yea, I'm hoping to see the feeding issue decrease as I shoot it more and stop in another 500 rounds. Yesterday wasn't quite as bad as the week before but still no way I'd shoot a match with it right now. I took it apart today and hit a few points I didn't the first time polishing and changed the interruptor. So we'll see and no worries until another 400-500 rounds;-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nealio Posted April 12, 2015 Share Posted April 12, 2015 Yeah I wouldn't take a gun to a match unless it had 1500 rounds minimum on it. Also make sure the rib on the bottom side of the slide is nice and slick too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 Maybe the corner from top of feed ramp into chamber is too sharp. If so, a little rounding over might help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wesquire Posted April 13, 2015 Author Share Posted April 13, 2015 Maybe the corner from top of feed ramp into chamber is too sharp. If so, a little rounding over might help. I did that. It doesn't seem to happen in live fire or when I crimp it good now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bayougump Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 Maybe the corner from top of feed ramp into chamber is too sharp. If so, a little rounding over might help. Yea, when I had it out today I polished up that part to smooth it out and I made sure feed ramp was smooth, also polished extractor and the end of the rib on slide. It was a rainout match today so good excuse to hit some points that other members have suggested. I think when I go next Saturday to practice that it'll run smoother.....fingers crossed, lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WJM Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 By now I have shot approximately 3000 rounds through my Tanfo Stock 2, and shot ~1500 this weekend. I had this issue happen maybe 5-6 times, and it seemed to only happen when the gun got really dirty. I didn't shoot any extreme hollow points that would be plated and should shoot cleaner and be more smooth on the edge. I think this issue for my is primarily caused by the gun just getting dirty after those Blacks Bullets shoot through it. I picked up a cartridge that had this issue and it seemed like it was rubbing near the neck of the case where the extractor would extract the round (cant think of the name of it). Makes me think that MAYBE my brass isn't as clean down there as it should be, which could cause enough friction on it. Any thoughts on this? Thanks,WJM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bayougump Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 I have shot Bayous except for my open gun exclusively in my Tanfos and I have shot my Stock II a few times with prolly 1500-2500 rounds thru it between cleaning and it's never had a feeding issue. Maybe it's just my Stock II but that thing runs no matter how dirty it is. I don't know about if your brass being dirty enough to cause enough friction to have feeding issues. What OAL are you running? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WJM Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 1.135. WJM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bayougump Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 When I started USPSA I shot a G34 and OAL was 1.135 and I tried shooting out my Stock II and they wouldn't. I went down to 1.125 and never had problem. That's just me though but I remember that length was too long for mine and I wanted a load to shoot out both my 34 and stock II Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EngineerEli Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 I think I was experiencing the same issue as you with my new Stock III. I haven't had the change to get back to the range yet but I'm pretty sure I figured it out. When the slide is coming forward the rib on the bottom of the slide catches the top round and pushes it forward into the chamber, but as soon as that round moves in front of the magazine lips, it pops up and the next round crashes up into the bottom of the rib. On my gun, the corner of the front of the rib was razor sharp, and was digging into the next round under the one being chambered. On many occasions stopping the slide. For proof, if I dropped the magazine the slide would immediately slam home, and if I looked at the top round in the mag, there was a big gouge in the top of the case often with an entire 'chip' of brass removed or rolled back. After that range trip I sanded that edge with 220, 320, 600 and 1400 grit sand paper, then hit it with a cotton swab in a drill with some polish for good measure. It cycles snap caps better but haven't been able to live fire test it again yet. BTW, at the time my feel ramp was already polished but the extractor was not. It has since been though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EngineerEli Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 When I started USPSA I shot a G34 and OAL was 1.135 and I tried shooting out my Stock II and they wouldn't. I went down to 1.125 and never had problem. That's just me though but I remember that length was too long for mine and I wanted a load to shoot out both my 34 and stock II If you like 124's you can get the older style with the lube groove and recessed nose. I know at least Bayou sells these. You can load those to almost any length you want because most of what sticks out of the case is a smaller diameter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WJM Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 Like this? WJM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EngineerEli Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 Yup that's the spot. I didn't take as much materiel off, I just broke the edge, it was VERY sharp out of the box. The edge at the other end of the rib was very sharp too, so I gave it the same treatment, but I don't think that would have caused any problems if I hadn't. If anyone does this though, make sure you tape off the rails and whatever you don't want to take the finish off while you are getting in there with the sand paper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WJM Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 I did that the second or third day I had this gun. This didn't fix this issue at all. WJM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EngineerEli Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 Bummer, I guess I have to get back to the range and see if mine runs any more reliably or not... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WJM Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 It does however fix the issue of having a magazine not fall without pulling down on it. Without breaking the edge of this it pulls the bullet in the mag forward and causes the mag to not fall freely. WJM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbarker13 Posted April 17, 2015 Share Posted April 17, 2015 Took my self-polished Stock III (9mm) to the range yesterday to test it out. Kind of mixed results. My rounds would only fire a couple of times before an FTF. These are 147gr SnS flat points (coated). OAL 1.14. However, when I borrowed some ammo from a friend, the gun ran without issue. His were 124 gr bayous round nose. Not sure of OAL, but definitely shorter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nealio Posted April 18, 2015 Share Posted April 18, 2015 (edited) If you run flat points you need to load them so the ogive is in the same place as a round nose. My flat points measure 1.045. Like I've mentioned several times before, I never change my seating die between 100 to 147gr, flat points, hollow points, or round nose. Edited April 18, 2015 by Nealio Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bayougump Posted April 18, 2015 Share Posted April 18, 2015 I think I was experiencing the same issue as you with my new Stock III. I haven't had the change to get back to the range yet but I'm pretty sure I figured it out. When the slide is coming forward the rib on the bottom of the slide catches the top round and pushes it forward into the chamber, but as soon as that round moves in front of the magazine lips, it pops up and the next round crashes up into the bottom of the rib. On my gun, the corner of the front of the rib was razor sharp, and was digging into the next round under the one being chambered. On many occasions stopping the slide. For proof, if I dropped the magazine the slide would immediately slam home, and if I looked at the top round in the mag, there was a big gouge in the top of the case often with an entire 'chip' of brass removed or rolled back. After that range trip I sanded that edge with 220, 320, 600 and 1400 grit sand paper, then hit it with a cotton swab in a drill with some polish for good measure. It cycles snap caps better but haven't been able to live fire test it again yet. BTW, at the time my feel ramp was already polished but the extractor was not. It has since been though. Did the top bullets in the mag your referring to look like this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WJM Posted April 18, 2015 Share Posted April 18, 2015 Just about had a meltdown today at a classifier match. Lost 2 GM classifiers because of this damn issue. Almost threw my gun away right then and there. I still have no idea what is causing this. Does it with extremes and also with BBI's. Wondering if it just needs to be broke in more than 4k rounds or so? I know that this is still the break in period but seriously this is getting ridiculous. WJM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prov1x Posted April 18, 2015 Share Posted April 18, 2015 Just about had a meltdown today at a classifier match. Lost 2 GM classifiers because of this damn issue. Almost threw my gun away right then and there. I still have no idea what is causing this. Does it with extremes and also with BBI's. Wondering if it just needs to be broke in more than 4k rounds or so? I know that this is still the break in period but seriously this is getting ridiculous. WJM Did you shorten the rounds as described above? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wesquire Posted April 19, 2015 Author Share Posted April 19, 2015 If you run flat points you need to load them so the ogive is in the same place as a round nose. My flat points measure 1.045. Like I've mentioned several times before, I never change my seating die between 100 to 147gr, flat points, hollow points, or round nose. Unless the profiles are the exact same, your ogive is still going to be different when you do that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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