Stock 2 not going into battery?

[WJM]

Alright I am completely stumped.

The first thing I did was ask my dad if he had this issue in live fire. Thats affirmative but it only happened in the load and make ready. This makes me think that the recoil spring may be the culprit in that department. But wait theres more.

When I got home I immediately tried to get them to load normally and they would get stuck in the same position every time.

This is that position.

So once I realized this I cleaned out the breach face (I believe that is what it is called), because well I figured maybe there is just too much friction there that would be causing the sides of the case to have friction possibly causing this.

That helped for a second but this problem is so damn inconsistent that I was unable to point it to this. (Plus if it is the only real option would be to polish that and I ain't taking any metal way from that).

[WJM]

Part 2

That helped for a second but this problem is so damn inconsistent that I was unable to point it to this. (Plus if it is the only real option would be to polish that and I ain't taking any metal way from that).

The next thing I tried was different bullets. But those were loaded to seperate lengths and had more issues I don't want to get into here.

Next I pulled out my hair.

The next thing I tried was to crimp the bullets more. This.. Seemed to solve it. I haven't tried it in live fire but this seemed to cause less of an issue. In dry fire (with live bullets but only to see if they feed) the overcrimped ones didn't seem to have an issue when compared to the uncrimped ones.

However on the ones that weren't crimped this happened.

I know its rather hard to see but basically the gun is shaving off some of the moly on the sides of the bullet. Im wondering what is causing this now?

I just want my gun to run smooth. If anyone, I repeat anyone has any idea on this I would be indebted.

Thanks,

​Wyatt

Edited March 26, 2015 by WJM

[Prov1x]

some guns just don't like certain type of bullet. I would change to a different type of bullet a plated or either a Montana gold bullet and go from there.

Of your crimp is tight and you are getting those marks from going into the chamber then your recoil spring is either too light, worn out or the profile of the bullet does not like the barrel.

I use a 9 pound recoil spring in my stock 2 but it is a nine millimeter. For 40 minor I would think that a 9 pound or even an 8 pound spring would be good but you may try a 10 pound just to be sure.

Edited March 26, 2015 by Prov1x

[jrp52179]

I thought .40 major, most peoole run 10 and 12# springs at least in 2011s? If you don't know exactly what you're doing like filing, polishing, etc. don't listen to random people on the web or forums and let a qualified gunsmith look at your gun.

[jrp52179]

I'd try a round nose bullet and see how they feed first. Then you can start to check the other stuff

[aceinyerface]

Does it only fail with reloads, or is it with factory ammo too?

What kind of lube are you using on the slide rails?

[cslafrain]

This is about as high of quality as my iPhone camera will take.

This is what my BBI's look like as of right now. I will try more of a crimp if this is too little of one.

Thanks for all the incoming advice I appreciate it!

WJM

With the shape of the .40 bullet, I would suspect that a soft bullet like those may have more drag, than a pointy bullet like in 9mm. The .40 is a little more finicky when loading from slide lock.

IMHO you don't save any money and get and inferior bullet with moly or black bullets. Also Berry's bullets are garbage, I wouldn't run them ever again. They are the softest plated bullet by far and are probably why plated bullets get a bad rap. Rainier are a little harder and are excellent, then Xtremes are even harder (and my personal preference). If you buy bulk from Xtreme you can get the cost down. .40 RNFP are like $87/k delivered when you buy in bulk.

I wouldn't go any heavier of a spring than a 9lb on a .40 minor gun, or you start to lose that nice "flat shooting" feel of the Tanfoglios.

Oh and like others have said, on a straight case round like the .40, having enough crimp is very critical to good feeding.

I tend to disagree with your assessment. The lead that BBI uses is certified 92/6/2 lead with a BHN of 18. This is actually harder than the plated manufacturers use. Lead will always be more accurate than plated....always.

WJM - give me a call and we can help you thru some of your issues

[BeckA11416]

i'm no gunsmith but looking at the pics t i would look at the extractor/spring and recoil spring. there is either not enough force from the recoil spring to force the case head under the extractor or the extractor may have a bur, or maybe need a reduced power extractor spring.

Edited March 26, 2015 by BeckA11416

[Nealio]

I tend to disagree with your assessment. The lead that BBI uses is certified 92/6/2 lead with a BHN of 18. This is actually harder than the plated manufacturers use. Lead will always be more accurate than plated....always.

WJM - give me a call and we can help you thru some of your issues

Sounds like a very objective response. Who would think the CEO of BBI would say that BBI are the best bullets??

What lead mix does Xtreme use?

[Nealio]

Part 2

That helped for a second but this problem is so damn inconsistent that I was unable to point it to this. (Plus if it is the only real option would be to polish that and I ain't taking any metal way from that).

The next thing I tried was different bullets. But those were loaded to seperate lengths and had more issues I don't want to get into here.

Next I pulled out my hair.

The next thing I tried was to crimp the bullets more. This.. Seemed to solve it. I haven't tried it in live fire but this seemed to cause less of an issue. In dry fire (with live bullets but only to see if they feed) the overcrimped ones didn't seem to have an issue when compared to the uncrimped ones.

However on the ones that weren't crimped this happened.

I know its rather hard to see but basically the gun is shaving off some of the moly on the sides of the bullet. Im wondering what is causing this now?

I just want my gun to run smooth. If anyone, I repeat anyone has any idea on this I would be indebted.

Thanks,

​Wyatt

Are you using a "U-die"? If not, then a good crimp and a U-die would probably get you fixed up.

[WJM]

Sorry my Reloading vocabulary is not the best I am fairly new to this game (only shot pistols for a year 2 days ago). So I have no idea what a U die is.

Tonight I made some bullets from Montana Gold they are JHP and they have a different shape, and are smoother. I am not unhappy with the BBI's for accuracy. In fact I am ecstatic they are fantastic bullets that are supremely accurate. However if they are whats causing my gun to not go into battery then I will be displeased.

The MG's seemed to feed better in dry fire, but I did clean the gun and to be fair the BBI's also fed just find after I loaded them in in dry fire.

I have a match tomorrow so we will see how they work then and I will post results.

Thanks,

Wyatt

[Nealio]

The u-die will undersize the base of the case, helping it feed better. Most everyone I know runs a u-die.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/687452/lee-undersized-carbide-sizing-die-40-s-and-w

Edited March 28, 2015 by Nealio

[WJM]

Yes I am using one of those on my Dillon. It isn't made by Lee though.

I am hoping that the change in bullets and crimping more solved this issue. I may try and do a couple slide lock reloads on purpose just to try it out.

Thanks,

Wyatt

[WJM]

Well I believe I solved one issue. Today I shot a match and didn't have one time where the bullet would get caught where it was getting caught before. I think it helped to use the different shape of bullet, but to me it helped more to have it cleaned a lot ( I cleaned the barrel feed ramp a lot to it was more smooth I still don't know why the gun gets so dirty so fast).

Anyways so this seemed to work with BBI's and Montana Golds. If they continue to work with BBI's I will probably shoot them for a very long time because of cost and availability and accuracy.

However now I realized that my main issue wasn't that the bullet wasn't getting caught on the feed ramp, I was over pushing the magazine into the the magwell, and was forcing it and kind of jamming it into the gun. So when the slide lock dropped it was wanting to jam on it and essentially make it so it wouldn't go forward unless I pulled the mag or jiggled the gun. I have two theories on this. 1 I am using different base pads (the production legal ones from Henning), and these are allowing more distance for it to be pushed into the gun. Basically it allows me to push it too far into the gun almost causing the jam. 2nd I slam my mags. I have always literally hammered the magazines into the gun, never had any losses to this and its never been a bad thing for me but I may need to change this.

I do have a small idea to solve this though. One idea, replace the screws on the rear of the henning magazine base pad to basically have it pushing out to the point that the magazine could only be pushed as far as I want it to. This could however make it so I need to replace those screws a lot because it would cause issues with the screws having their threads breaking.

The other option I just thought of, using a sheep castrating rubber band of sorts to be around the magazine, above the base pads. This would essentially make it so there is a little bit of a buffer to be between the base pad and the bottom of the magwell. Hmm.. Methinks this could work potentially as a viable option.

Also I am having a custom holster made for my Stock 2 and well I am stoked. I have a feeling this thing is gonna be amazing. Having it built perfect for USPSA production so it will be just how I want for a good price.

Thanks,

Wyatt

[Nealio]

Glad you got it figured out.

I just do a firm insert on the mags. Slamming them hard can cause issues.

[WJM]

Update, shot another match this weekend, and can report that the gun performed flawlessly in the regard to the previous issue of it siezing up halfway into the barrel. All I can assume is the gun is now wore in because it doesn't seem to do this anymore.

I also have solved another problem. On slide lock reloads I thought that I was over inserting the mags caused by my "Slamming" the mags into the gun but now I realize this wasn't the issue. The Henning base pads I am using are built so the top of the basepad is too short, and allows for even accidental over insertion into the gun. As well as having their rear pins that are easily stripped and not built to last. I like the shape and feel of the basepads but once I removed them I haven't had a single issue with slide lock reloads or any reloads whatsoever (can't say the same about the Henning base pads). I know this is not a quality control issue because in my experience Henning makes fantastic products, these basepads just are not for me.

I also know this wasn't an issue from slamming the mags like I previously thought, because even when slowly inserting the mags they can be accidentally over inserted.

I am now on the lookout for another basepad. I will be selling the Henning one if someone would want these. They are lightly used. Has anyone had any experience with the Shockbottle basepads from Stoeger? Do they sieze up like the Henning ones have? I know I asked Gump about it and he hasn't had the issue I have. If neither of these work I will just get used to the stock basepad it isn't that big of a deal.

Thanks,

WJM

Edited April 6, 2015 by WJM

[bayougump]

Update, shot another match this weekend, and can report that the gun performed flawlessly in the regard to the previous issue of it siezing up halfway into the barrel. All I can assume is the gun is now wore in because it doesn't seem to do this anymore.

I also have solved another problem. On slide lock reloads I thought that I was over inserting the mags caused by my "Slamming" the mags into the gun but now I realize this wasn't the issue. The Henning base pads I am using are built so the top of the basepad is too short, and allows for even accidental over insertion into the gun. As well as having their rear pins that are easily stripped and not built to last. I like the shape and feel of the basepads but once I removed them I haven't had a single issue with slide lock reloads or any reloads whatsoever (can't say the same about the Henning base pads). I know this is not a quality control issue because in my experience Henning makes fantastic products, these basepads just are not for me.

I also know this wasn't an issue from slamming the mags like I previously thought, because even when slowly inserting the mags they can be accidentally over inserted.

I am now on the lookout for another basepad. I will be selling the Henning one if someone would want these. They are lightly used. Has anyone had any experience with the Shockbottle basepads from Stoeger? Do they sieze up like the Henning ones have? I know I asked Gump about it and he hasn't had the issue I have. If neither of these work I will just get used to the stock basepad it isn't that big of a deal.

Thanks,

WJM

Are you shooting this in Production? Limited? The Stoeger are really only for production and they won't fit a Tanfo with a magwell or least not mine.

[WJM]

Gump,

Yes it will only be used for production unless I shoot an occasional USPSA classifier with the gun with a .40 major load.

Just frustrating when I counted up all the time that was lost due to magazine malfunctions that were out of my control and it ended up being over 10 seconds just for one stage.

Thanks,

WJM

Edited April 6, 2015 by WJM

[bayougump]

Gump,

Yes it will only be used for production unless I shoot an occasional USPSA classifier with the gun with a .40 major load.

Just frustrating when I counted up all the time that was lost due to magazine malfunctions that were out of my control and it ended up being over 10 seconds just for one stage.

Thanks,

WJM

Ok, I guess I was thinking of the extended Henning basepads. Yea the Shockbottle Stoegers are the way to go, awesomeness

[WJM]

Figured I would update this as I had an issue 2 weeks ago at a match, and this last weekend it has all seemed to disappear so I am hoping this can help other people.

First I took apart the top end of my gun. At first I thought it could be a mag issue, but that turned out to be a different malfunction, the one described originally in this post that looks like the picture below was solved using these methods.

Anyways I took apart the slide and all the components of the slide. Removed the extractor and all that jazz and decided to see if there were any burrs in either the extractor or near that.

After a slight polish.

After this I noticed that my slide also had a burr on it that I theorized could possibly be catching on the casing as it nears the entrance to the chamber. Once I smoothed this out and leveled it to the rest of the near bottom end of slide rail it seemed to smooth everything up.

Can see right beneath the extractor that slight burr that could be causing this.

Anyways I went to a match this weekend, and whether it was from cleaning the feed ramp after every couple stages (just used a q tip to smooth it up a little bit) or what I did here, but either way it hasn't had that issue. This issue used to happen on the load and make ready portion of the stage, and then once happened when I was shooting a stage. This seems to have disappeared all while using the lighter recoil spring.

Once I get home I will update this post with updated polish pictures they will explain where I smoothed out a little more hopefully.

Thanks,

WJM

Edited April 8, 2015 by WJM