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M&P Pro 40 Trigger Adjustment


PKT1106

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I have been reading about the Apex kits and the details along with them but I had a question about the trigger bar that comes with the M&P Pro. It has the "loop" to engage the sear. Could I not just adjust that loop to reduce take-up? I have read the Burwell slides as well about polishing and some filing/stoneing.

I like the trigger, but the take-up is very long. Please let me know if I am missing something.

Thanks

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have been reading about the Apex kits and the details along with them but I had a question about the trigger bar that comes with the M&P Pro. It has the "loop" to engage the sear. Could I not just adjust that loop to reduce take-up? I have read the Burwell slides as well about polishing and some filing/stoneing.

I like the trigger, but the take-up is very long. Please let me know if I am missing something.

Thanks

without adding an overtravel stop decreasing the pretravel will increase your overtravel which is worse for accuracy because even with a perfect trigger pull the movement after the break will pull your sights off target

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And................If you adjust the loop too far, it's possible to induce light primer strikes because the sear releases the striker before the striker block is completely clear of the striker.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I and to adjust my stock, old version trigger bar when I put in an apex poly trigger and fss kit, as well as adjust the medial tension so I could get a reset in the trigger.

At one point I had adjusted too far and got the break, no reset, and no over travel. As I dialed it back I got the break, and reset, with too zero over travel. Having just watched the apex video and the guy on the vid explained you want just a tiny bit of over travel. I forget the rationale, but there was a good reason to have just a wee bit in there. So I kept adjusting until I got everything dialed in.

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Mine is still goobered. thought I had it but I'm getting light primer strikes and a rare failure to reset(dead trigger). I adjusted again last night, and it will be a work in progress, but the gun is NOT trustworthy any longer. Hopefully, I can tune it out, but if I cannot, the stock parts will be going back in. This has been a very frustrating experience and Apex needs WAYYYYY better videos and explanations in regards to the rationale on how different adjustment's of the loop effect different parts of the trigger. Giving more clarification in regards to if you adjust this too much X,Y, Z may happen etc... Very disappointed in that regard, at least for the videos I've watched etc...

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Had a few conversations with Apex on my flat trigger when I put it in. Things they mentioned.... make sure you use the spring under the sear that came in the kit. Using the competition spring can result in dead triggers. You 'may' have to close the loop slightly to make sure that the trigger 'pre travels' enough to engage the striker block fully. You will need to use the striker block that came with the kit (at least with the flat trigger) or you may have a timing issue - again because the striker block isn't activated fully by the time the sear releases.

In my case - simply cleaning things and closing the loop slightly made things run nicely. Perhaps that increased my pre-travel slightly, but my uneducated trigger finger didn't seem to notice.

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I adjusted my loop a touch more closed, maybe .003-.005. Also tried s&b primers which are softer than the Tulsa I was using. No ftf in small 50rnd test lot. I was getting one to two per mag with prior trigger loop adjustment.

I feel its a combo of issues. Obviously the timing has changed at the sear release which can if not corrected cause the drag others have described.

The old striker design seems more prone to the issue

Harder primers in reloads. Maybe some others I'm not thinking of. The tolerance stacks start getting too far away from factory at any point and the system seems to loose its balance and hence function. Very interesting though that the trigger loop can be so sensitive to change. I guess I tend to think of guns as rougher tools/machines and not intricate machines like watches. I think a more jewlers mindset when I went at my trigger loop last time may have been the ticket instead of Bruno the barbarian. I didn't think I was adjusting too much based on videos I saw and thing I read, but I guess I was, seeming to overshoot on the corrections, either increasing or decreasing the gap. At least that's my two cents trying to sum up the situation from what others have stated.

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