JaredM Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 So, my M2 currently has its 4th carrier latch in place. I drill the button from the back side cause I can't figure out how to line it up with my drill press any other way. I drill a hole the size of the button in a block of wood clamped to the press table, then push the button down into the hole to hold it in alignment and switch drill bit to proper size and drill all the way through from the back side. <<<That may be my problem. The issue I repeatedly have been running into is that the oversized release (Taran, Arredondo, etc) will start spinning. When I check the screw (which I blue loctite in) it's still tight. It's just that the button is now turning in the carrier latch. This last time I center punched the back of the button aggressively to hopefully expand the metal and tighten the fit before drilling but it's doing it again. I don't weld but has anyone had luck welding the button to the carrier latch? This seems like the ultimate solution but I imagine it would require a good bit of skill on such small pieces. Anyone found any other solutions? Someone should make a carrier latch for this joker that has the button welded in instead of just pressed in. Does GG&G weld theirs? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'll likely ruin the one I have trying to get the screw out and will be ordering my 5th and 6th latch as replacement/backup. Thanks, Jared Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike cyrwus Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 (edited) if the screws are stripping and just spinning, you are using too big of a drill, go down a size and try to get 75% thread contact at least. Edited March 22, 2015 by mike cyrwus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JaredM Posted March 22, 2015 Author Share Posted March 22, 2015 The install is fine. Its later on that the actual factory bolt button starts spinning within the carrier latch. The screw is tight in the factory button. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Headworked Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 Jared, The pin that is spinning can be welded. WHen you drill all the way thru, it reduces the factory crimp and fit between pin and stamping. It can be welded, carefully... Best option is to drill and tap from the side the release lever mounts, and stay away from breaking thru... This will mean you are blind tapping the hole, so clear the chips every couple of threads, to prevent them packing up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Headworked Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Headworked Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Headworked Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 Jared Do you have a small drill press vise? If so, take a new shell catch and squeeze it in vise lightly, with the pin going up, so as not to damage it, but snug enough so it will not move when you apply pressure with drill bit. I usually spot mine in a mill, using a center drill... Another option is to remove the checkering off the original button surface with a file, which will allow you to make a small center punch mark, which your drill will follow well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurtm Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 You could always go with the RNT rapid release tab. No drilling and tapping. I have seen many buttons break off or start spinning. I would sure look into one, that way the button remains stock, not weakened by drilling and tapping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JaredM Posted March 22, 2015 Author Share Posted March 22, 2015 I do have a vice and will try it that way if I decide to drill another one. I think I'll try and have this one welded but I'm also gonna finally give that RNT tab Kurt is talking about a try. Almost got one the last time this happened. Even if I end up not loving it I'll keep it and a spare latch in my bag as a backup. I appreciate all the help and pics. Good to know it can be done. Got a buddy who welds so I'll let him give it a try. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Sierpina Posted March 23, 2015 Share Posted March 23, 2015 Are you using a flat head screw? If so, the screw is bottoming out, against the carrier release, and not against the button. A socket head cap screw will hold the button correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bullittmcqueen Posted March 23, 2015 Share Posted March 23, 2015 I've always told you the RNT release tab is the way to go. Of course, hearing your travails with your bolt releases is half the reason I went that route in the first place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JaredM Posted March 23, 2015 Author Share Posted March 23, 2015 I've always told you the RNT release tab is the way to go. Of course, hearing your travails with your bolt releases is half the reason I went that route in the first place. Well I ordered one but the jury's still out. I'll let you know if you were right . In the meantime I removed the latch, center punched the hole to expand the button (which tightened it up pretty good) and then sanded and soldered all the way around the button. Doubt the solder did much but it seemed to bond and I put a pretty good bit of torque on the button and couldn't get it to turn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhill Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 (edited) The RNT bolt release tab is great. No drilling required. If you go with Nordic, TTI, or any screw mounted release tab, dont drill from the backside and dont drill all the way through. Ive installed more than I can count and learned early on that drilling all the way through only causes problems. Edited March 25, 2015 by dhill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JaredM Posted March 25, 2015 Author Share Posted March 25, 2015 Thanks! I definitely won't be drilling all the way through the button if I do it again. I did get a RNT tab in today and I've gotta say it's pretty darn good. I'm pretty good with the matchsaver and after installing it I did a few runs. I had to adjust my technique slightly but within a few tries I was up to the same speed and consistency. Thanks for the tips guys. I think I'm gonna like the simplicity of the RNT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dewberry Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 (edited) You could always go with the RNT rapid release tab. No drilling and tapping. I have seen many buttons break off or start spinning. I would sure look into one, that way the button remains stock, not weakened by drilling and tapping.This x100 I got the RNT tab and I love it. Bigger than most buttons and it will never break off. I reccomend some traction tape on top of the tab. Edited March 31, 2015 by Dewberry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BDUB Posted May 31, 2018 Share Posted May 31, 2018 Wish I saw this thread earlier, I have the same issue. Why do these things not come with any instructions, like "DONT DRILL ALL THE WAY THRU" even though all the youtube vids I see have them doing just that. Thanks for all the great advice I know my options now. Where is the best place to get replacement carrier latches? Benelli M1. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chriswakey Posted June 1, 2018 Share Posted June 1, 2018 Also if you have them welded it seems to change the structure of the metal and make it brittle. I had two welded after being drilled and both buttons completely broke off along with the extended buttons. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurtm Posted June 2, 2018 Share Posted June 2, 2018 And once again the RNT closer tab uses the stock lever and button. No welding, drilling, tapping, no nothing. The reason I made these is because of all the broken buttons and levers I have seen. The design goes back to the mid to late 90s, and it works! I made the first one out of a spring clip for a garage door opener, and it has worked since 1998.....oh yeah and it still has the stock cut off lever from then as well. I stamp them out of 304 stainless steel so they are tough and springy. You can get them from Brownells, CPWSP, Tac Com, Shooters Connection, and several other places.......it comes with COMPLETE instruction, and takes all of 2 minutes to install. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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