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M&P trigger pull reduction ideas?


superslowmo

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I have done a little bit of reading here and there in the subforum, and would like to lower the pull on my current pistols a bit more.

My 9L with nothing more than the Apex Competition Action Enhancement kit (and a very small amount of polishing) has a trigger pull that is right at 3# on my pull gauge.

I am wondering if there is anything else that would lower it to the 2# range without doing all of the work outlined by Burwell, or am I looking at about as good as it is going to get? I have a polymer action enhancement trigger inbound, mainly because I prefer the Glock feel vs the stock hinged trigger set up.

In addition to this I just picked up a new 40 Pro 5" (and my G22 set up will go to a new home when I can find someone to adopt it) that I will be setting up as a (larger) twin sibling to the 9L. It's going to be a welcome change, since the trigger pull out of the box is a really stiff 7#.

If there are any other ideas on where to go with this outside of the Burwell mods I mention above, I would appreciate hearing them. These pistols are both going to be used in comp, and I just may turn the 9L into a 9mm major piece once I get the 40 dialed in (or I will end up buying a Core + optic next).

Thanks in advance for any feedback you all can provide.

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I just finished a 9 major build, I'm sold on the Flat Faced Forward Set Sear kit from Apex. I have it on my Core as well as the new M&P, after playing with the trigger return springs (the included and some others that I had in the parts drawer). This is the trigger pull I ended up with. I think this was accomplished by using the lighter of the Apex springs. One thing I did other than the kit was to polish the striker block bore before installing the Apex striker block. Hope this is helpful.

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post-56380-0-01246200-1426860445_thumb.j

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Fully polish the sear, trigger bar loop, trigger bar cam (where it contacts the USB), striker block, striker leg, sear pivot pin, sear plunger. Free and easy, just takes a bit of time.

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I just finished a 9 major build, I'm sold on the Flat Faced Forward Set Sear kit from Apex. I have it on my Core as well as the new M&P, after playing with the trigger return springs (the included and some others that I had in the parts drawer). This is the trigger pull I ended up with. I think this was accomplished by using the lighter of the Apex springs. One thing I did other than the kit was to polish the striker block bore before installing the Apex striker block. Hope this is helpful.

What kind of groups are you getting at 25 yards?

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I just finished a 9 major build, I'm sold on the Flat Faced Forward Set Sear kit from Apex. I have it on my Core as well as the new M&P, after playing with the trigger return springs (the included and some others that I had in the parts drawer). This is the trigger pull I ended up with. I think this was accomplished by using the lighter of the Apex springs. One thing I did other than the kit was to polish the striker block bore before installing the Apex striker block. Hope this is helpful.

What kind of groups are you getting at 25 yards?

Don't know, I never measure them. I count Alphas as hits and everything else as a miss. :mellow:

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There is generally 3 approaches to improving the fire controls and most trigger jobs incorporate various degrees of all of these.

1. spring rate changes (reduces overall part-on-part forces)

2. polishing of contact parts (reduces part on part friction)

3. geometry changes (reduces part on part contact/travel)

The apex kits generally involve a lot of #1, and a bit of #3 depending on the kit (FSS clearly has more). I have had Apex kits and also currently have several pistols worked by DB and am familiar with what goes on in his competition jobs and i can tell you its a LOT of 2 & 3 with really no spring changes.

To bring your Apex kit to the next echelon, you need to identify what its missing compared to the competition and add that work in. For instance, you can do the additional polishing as was outlined above and that will smooth out your existing setup, but not provide wholesale changes as its more of a fine tuning step. What apex is lacking is the custom geometry changes which is how DB is able to get that last 10% improvement that drop in parts will never achieve. Decking the top of the sear, re-angling the front of the sear plus the corresponding angles on striker hook will get you the light, crisp, low-travel break that his work is famous for but it can really only be done reliably as a custom job due to the small tolerances involved in the work and the large tolerances involved in the guns. The apex, in comparison, is rather spongey but its a drop in and safe for the tolerance stack up of these kinds of guns.

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I have done a little bit of reading here and there in the subforum, and would like to lower the pull on my current pistols a bit more.

My 9L with nothing more than the Apex Competition Action Enhancement kit (and a very small amount of polishing) has a trigger pull that is right at 3# on my pull gauge.

I am wondering if there is anything else that would lower it to the 2# range without doing all of the work outlined by Burwell, or am I looking at about as good as it is going to get? I have a polymer action enhancement trigger inbound, mainly because I prefer the Glock feel vs the stock hinged trigger set up.

In addition to this I just picked up a new 40 Pro 5" (and my G22 set up will go to a new home when I can find someone to adopt it) that I will be setting up as a (larger) twin sibling to the 9L. It's going to be a welcome change, since the trigger pull out of the box is a really stiff 7#.

If there are any other ideas on where to go with this outside of the Burwell mods I mention above, I would appreciate hearing them. These pistols are both going to be used in comp, and I just may turn the 9L into a 9mm major piece once I get the 40 dialed in (or I will end up buying a Core + optic next).

Thanks in advance for any feedback you all can provide.

If you do the Burwell work (less the sear mods since you relaced the sear) the 3# pull will be smoother and FEEL lighter. To go much lower you risk safety (i.e., propability of ND's could go up) and reliabilty (light primer strikes forcing use of only Fed primers). In action pistol games I've not felt that the lighest possibe trigger pull was really a good goal. I've seen many failures (light strikes and NDs) due to over working trigger in plastic guns.

I have a 9 Pro with ALL stock parts and the Burwell work (less the sear) and a 40 Pro with the FSS kit using stock springs.

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  • 2 weeks later...

So I put the Apex comp springs in the gun with the FSS. I drove the cross pin on the trigger safety out and cut a coil or two off and reassembled. This was necessary because the trigger block spring was more stout than the effort required to press the trigger. Now it is a scary quick and crisp 2ish. Experienced shooters that have fired it expected more length to the trigger and were quite surprised. Good luck.

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  • 4 months later...

Not sure why you are resisting doing the Burwell mods. He outlines them very well on the web as a PowerPoint type presentation and none of it is hard to do. Just takes a little time as others have mentioned. The rewards are worth the effort and you come out with a better understanding of how things work in the M&P. A win-win in my book.

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