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Which entry level AR has best stock trigger


igolfat8

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Of the entry level ARs which one has the best trigger out of the box or are they likely all mil-spec with little difference between them? I am considering S&W Sport, Winham carbon fiber, DPMS Oracle and Pametto. Unfortunately I don't have a LGS to try them in person.

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None, assume the trigger will suck on any of those guns. If it doesn't, yay for you, but assume that it does and at the minimum add in the ALG trigger for $50 or so.

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There are lots of pretty good options out there for 150.00 for a nice trigger. I did try the Hiperfire duty trigger and its a very nice 4.5lbs. I think that they run 80.00 or so. I think that you are going to find that unless the rifle has a "match" trigger, and this is subjective, you will be at the mercy of the rifle parts that are thrown together. Standard AR triggers routinely run 8-12 lbs with lots of creep. A good trigger is one of the most cost efficient things you can do to help you get rounds on target. The other high benefit items are optic and a handguard.

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a little polishing can do impressive things.

I haven't tried it, but I've read here on BE that polishing might

remove the hardening of the fire control parts, and cause

premature failure (works great at 1st, but then wears out

quickly).

I may be wrong, but that's my recollection of previous postings. :cheers:

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AR fire control parts from most all of the MFGs are case hardened. If and when you start cutting through this your trigger pull will not last long. Years ago, in 1994-1995 when the AR-15 was first legal as a service rifle and we did away with the .30 rule, there were not match triggers for the AR. Many many people tired to recut the geometry of the triggers and polish them up. This worked for a few hundred rounds and then the triggers god mushey and started to fail. The set screw up through the grip hole helped a little. On other guns we drilled a hole in the bottom of the receiver and installed a set screw. Accuracy Speaks Derrik Martin, Frank White and some other AR pioneers started experimenting with triggers. They started milling off the interface portions of the hammer and trigger and welding on material that they could then machine. This worked and still works today. Soon there after many others got into the trigger game and the noted service rifle game changer, the Maliazzo-Krieger trigger. Soon there after Armalite made a copy, there was a lawsuit and they redesigned their triggers.

So now well armed with a history lesson in AR triggers DO NOT start attempting to modify the standard trigger by polishing or re-cutting it. I personally don't think that the set screw and light springs will give you what you want. I would save your money. I also shot a factory COLT trigger in NRA competition, 9.5 LBS and won many a matches with it, so it can be done.

Cheers.

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AR fire control parts from most all of the MFGs are case hardened. If and when you start cutting through this your trigger pull will not last long. Years ago, in 1994-1995 when the AR-15 was first legal as a service rifle and we did away with the .30 rule, there were not match triggers for the AR. Many many people tired to recut the geometry of the triggers and polish them up. This worked for a few hundred rounds and then the triggers god mushey and started to fail. The set screw up through the grip hole helped a little. On other guns we drilled a hole in the bottom of the receiver and installed a set screw. Accuracy Speaks Derrik Martin, Frank White and some other AR pioneers started experimenting with triggers. They started milling off the interface portions of the hammer and trigger and welding on material that they could then machine. This worked and still works today. Soon there after many others got into the trigger game and the noted service rifle game changer, the Maliazzo-Krieger trigger. Soon there after Armalite made a copy, there was a lawsuit and they redesigned their triggers.

So now well armed with a history lesson in AR triggers DO NOT start attempting to modify the standard trigger by polishing or re-cutting it. I personally don't think that the set screw and light springs will give you what you want. I would save your money. I also shot a factory COLT trigger in NRA competition, 9.5 LBS and won many a matches with it, so it can be done.

Cheers.

I'm talking about a couple light swipes on a really fine stone to remove any grittiness, not taking material off the sear engagement surfaces to remove pre-travel/creep. That's what the set screw is for. I've got one in a .22 training rifle that I didn't want to spend the money for another JP trigger on. Breaks right at 3lbs and has so for several thousand rounds. It's still not as nice as my JP triggers, but it's been reliable, is waaay better than a Mil-spec trigger and cost $13.

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It is true that a decent trigger can be had for not a lot of money, and is probably where you can get the most bang for the buck in improvements. However, when I first started, I put yellow JP springs on a stock Colt trigger, polished the surface with a buffing wheel and jewelers rouge and cut the tail off of the stock hammer. That trigger setup is still in a rifle that gets used for hoser practice and stays out of the safe in my house today. It has had several thousand rounds through it. It is not near as nice as a decent drop in and really makes you appreciate a JP installed by JP, but it has served me well and feels much better than it did in stock form.

Hurley

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AGI makes a very good video about doing ar triggers. I thought it was worth the 30 bucks to learn about the mechanics. I know the triggers aren't rocket science, but it really helps to see the cutaway views and how the actual process goes. One of the most Important parts is at the very first, where they show improper trigger sear relationships, and why they are bad. I like knowing how stuff works, and I enjoyed learning how stuff works. That being said, I have one CMC, two JP's and two home done triggers. My home done triggers are a step behind the JP's, but not bad, especially for the cost. Most people like them pretty good except for the really good shooters who have been spoiled by a great trigger. That is the problem with a great trigger, once you get used to one, it sucks to go back. The CMC is great by the way, have it in a precision ar.

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OP, as others have said, there is a difference between polishing with a polishing compound on a cotton wheel vs stoning. Stoning will remove significant material which can lead to parts failure. Compound on cotton should not. Results may or may not be satisfactory with compound on cotton, depends on machining and geometry of hammer and trigger, but has worked well on 1 carbine, not well enough on another, in my limited experience. No harm trying, as long its done using common sense.

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http://www.joeboboutfitters.com/ALG_Defense_Quality_Mil_Spec_Trigger_QMS_p/alg-qms.htm

http://www.joeboboutfitters.com/JP_AR_15_REDUCED_POWER_SPRING_KIT_p/jp-jps3.5.htm

http://www.joeboboutfitters.com/JoeBob_s_Trigger_Adjuster_p/jb-triggeradjuster.htm

QMS Trigger, cut the tail off the hammer to become a speed hammer. Add JP springs and a trigger adjuster screw to remove the pretravel and you have a pretty good trigger without spending a ton. For less, use the factory trigger and do the same thing and possibly a very light polish your not out a ton and its much better than stock

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DoubleStar 3Gun AR comes with the CMC trigger and the Armalite comes with the Timney trigger. Both are decent triggers that very few people would have a quarrel with their performance.

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