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GunBandit

Just ordered a CZ SP01!

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Hey all. I finally took the plunge. I shot a G17 all last year but after shooting a friends CZ75 I knew I had to get one and wanted the SP01. Well after looking for quite a while to find one and find the best deal I ordered one from Damascus Gun Shop. Michael is great to deal with and very responsive. Give them a look. Anyway I should have it by Friday and can't wait. I'll probably get some parts from CGW and do a few upgrades following Kneelingatlas' guide. Any recommendations.

Their short reset kit looks like a pretty good place to start. Now I need to get mags and a holster.

Enough rambling I'm just excited to finally have one coming.

Edited by GunBandit

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Yeah, I'm just as excited as you. Got my SP-01 Accu Shadow on Friday and shot some steel on Saturday.

Very accurate, very nice trigger.

A couple things will be different; letting the hammer down before holstering and DA first shot. I can't wait for that to become second nature.

Right now it's not!

Edited by zzw26n

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Yeah lowering the hammer at the start and the DA will be different for sure.

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Get the CGW parts, follow KneelingAtlas tutorial, and you will have an SP01 that's going to be as good as any much higher cost Production gun.

Edited by JGus

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Get the CGW hammer with the short reset system - worth every penny.

If he's planning on shooting Production, wouldn't the hammer be illegal? Edited by Quack

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Here is how I lower the hammer. Pinch the tang of the hammer with the thumb and forefinger of your weak hand. If right handed, you reach across the back strap with your thumb closest to your body and your forefinger away from your body. Back of left hand pointing toward the muzzle. Pinch the hammer firmly and pull the trigger lowering the hammer. I've tried the thumb roll method but pinching works best for me.

An extended mag release is also helpful, as well as, better sights.

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Depends on which hammer you get. They have production legal hammers. But you are correct I believe the race hammer is against production rules and maybe one of the others.

Edited by GunBandit

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I ordered one from there about a week ago. Got it in last Saturday. CGW parts are going in it as we speak!

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Here's how I lower the hammer all the way down, which IMO is the safest way.

1. Put your weak hand thumb between the hammer and firing pin.

2. Cock the hammer back with your strong hand thumb so it takes all the spring pressure and pull the trigger.

3. Lower the hammer onto your weak hand thumb and release the trigger, now the firing pin block is engaged if you slip.

4. Lower the hammer onto half-cock with your strong hand thumb as you retract your weak hand thumb.

5. Pull back on the slide slightly until the slide contacts the hammer, but not so far back that it cocks it again, and pull the trigger.

6. If you have the slide back the right amount, the sear should release and the hammer should gently follow the slide down to fully decocked.

7. As a final step, I pull back slightly on the hammer again so that the FPB can engage again. It won't "click" in with the hammer pressure pushing the FP forward. This means the gun is now drop safe should it come out of your holster or you really screw up the draw.

It sounds complicated, but it's really not and after you do it a couple times, it's very quick and easy. It's a lot more stress free IMO, as there's virtually no way the gun can go off if you slip at any point.

Edited by reshp1

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Yes get all the parts. You may not want to take it apart a second time. Those safety detents and springs drove me crazy. Of course I tried to be careful and still lost one of them and had to order a replacement.

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Depends on which hammer you get. They have production legal hammers. But you are correct I believe the race hammer is against production rules and maybe one of the others.

The race hammer will prevent your SP01 from meeting the SSP rules in IDPA which means you cannot play in ESP either. The only division you will be able to play in is IPSC/USPSA limited minor.

The same goes for folks who install the Single Action triggers onto their SP01's.

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Here's how I lower the hammer all the way down, which IMO is the safest way.

1. Put your weak hand thumb between the hammer and firing pin.

2. Cock the hammer back with your strong hand thumb so it takes all the spring pressure and pull the trigger.

3. Lower the hammer onto your weak hand thumb and release the trigger, now the firing pin block is engaged if you slip.

4. Lower the hammer onto half-cock with your strong hand thumb as you retract your weak hand thumb.

5. Pull back on the slide slightly until the slide contacts the hammer, but not so far back that it cocks it again, and pull the trigger.

6. If you have the slide back the right amount, the sear should release and the hammer should gently follow the slide down to fully decocked.

7. As a final step, I pull back slightly on the hammer again so that the FPB can engage again. It won't "click" in with the hammer pressure pushing the FP forward. This means the gun is now drop safe should it come out of your holster or you really screw up the draw.

It sounds complicated, but it's really not and after you do it a couple times, it's very quick and easy. It's a lot more stress free IMO, as there's virtually no way the gun can go off if you slip at any point.

Thank you ... how are your video skills? Would I like to see this on video. It makes sense and sounds safe.

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Depends on which hammer you get. They have production legal hammers. But you are correct I believe the race hammer is against production rules and maybe one of the others.

The race hammer will prevent your SP01 from meeting the SSP rules in IDPA which means you cannot play in ESP either. The only division you will be able to play in is IPSC/USPSA limited minor.

The same goes for folks who install the Single Action triggers onto their SP01's.

Yeah that's true. I don't shoot IDPA because there aren't close clubs, that I know of. When I get a hammer I'm going to go with one of the production legal versions. Probably won't change the trigger any time soon. I'm either going to start with the ultra-lite/sd or the 1485/T2 with the SRS-2

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Forgot to say that my pistol is supposed to get here tomorrow. Can't wait to put some rounds down range.

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I agree on getting the correct for intended purpose parts all at once and doing the job one time.

My stock Sp01 .40 tactical is used for IDPA and Uspsa only and I want a great trigger.

Was thinking the ring hammer, 1485/T2, SRS-2, hammer pins and install kit.

Am I forgeting anything or is this to much.

Love everything about the sp01 except the stock trigger

Thanks for input

Ron

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CGW has assorted tools i.e. punches etc that are worth getting as well. That's the route I went, when I ordered the second batch of parts, and have not regretted it. Might as well get them with the first order.

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Here is everything i did to mine, just finished getting the timing correct about a hour ago. Its running like a beast. Crisp, short reset, very light SA/DA, lovin it. Here are the parts i used and what i needed in case you decide to go the CGW route.

Here are the CGW parts i used for mine:

  1. Competition Hammer Kit-10040
  2. Disconnector Type 2-1485/T2 (comes with a hammer pin)
  3. Short Reset System-Deluxe- SRS-2
  4. Trigger Return Spring- RP-TRS
  5. Hammer Pin (only need one if you get the disconnector)
  6. Floating Trigger Pin- TR-PIN
  7. Starter Punch (you can find these at Home depot)
  8. Sight Set F&R- E-ZD-9/40

What i needed,

Punch Set (1/16,3/32,1/8)

Starter Punch

Pick set

Red Heavy Duty Loctite

A solvent to degrease the adjustable sear

Lube

A vice or good clamps for removing the hammer pins

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Here is everything i did to mine, just finished getting the timing correct about a hour ago. Its running like a beast. Crisp, short reset, very light SA/DA, lovin it. Here are the parts i used and what i needed in case you decide to go the CGW route.

Here are the CGW parts i used for mine:

  1. Competition Hammer Kit-10040
  2. Disconnector Type 2-1485/T2 (comes with a hammer pin)
  3. Short Reset System-Deluxe- SRS-2
  4. Trigger Return Spring- RP-TRS
  5. Hammer Pin (only need one if you get the disconnector)
  6. Floating Trigger Pin- TR-PIN
  7. Starter Punch (you can find these at Home depot)
  8. Sight Set F&R- E-ZD-9/40

What i needed,

Punch Set (1/16,3/32,1/8)

Starter Punch

Pick set

Red Heavy Duty Loctite

A solvent to degrease the adjustable sear

Lube

A vice or good clamps for removing the hammer pins

I believe you need to buy one more additional Hammer H-Pin. The kit only comes with one. You need one for the disconnector and the other for the Hammer.

Some other cosmetic stuff to add too....

  • 22 - Hmr Spring Plug, Flat
  • This gets rid of the Hammer Spring Plug with the retention loop.
  • cz-sp-01-main-spring-plug.jpg
  • 24 - Mag Guide, full size, hvy-duty.comp.
  • More Robust Mag Guide - Pic is of the CZ stainless one.

CZSolidMagBreak.gif

Edited by praetorian97

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Here is everything i did to mine, just finished getting the timing correct about a hour ago. Its running like a beast. Crisp, short reset, very light SA/DA, lovin it. Here are the parts i used and what i needed in case you decide to go the CGW route.

Here are the CGW parts i used for mine:

  • Competition Hammer Kit-10040
  • Disconnector Type 2-1485/T2 (comes with a hammer pin)
  • Short Reset System-Deluxe- SRS-2
  • Trigger Return Spring- RP-TRS
  • Hammer Pin (only need one if you get the disconnector)
  • Floating Trigger Pin- TR-PIN
  • Starter Punch (you can find these at Home depot)
  • Sight Set F&R- E-ZD-9/40
What i needed,

Punch Set (1/16,3/32,1/8)

Starter Punch

Pick set

Red Heavy Duty Loctite

A solvent to degrease the adjustable sear

Lube

A vice or good clamps for removing the hammer pins

I believe you need to buy one more additional Hammer H-Pin. The kit only comes with one. You need one for the disconnector and the other for the Hammer.

Some other cosmetic stuff to add too....

  • 22 - Hmr Spring Plug, Flat
  • This gets rid of the Hammer Spring Plug with the retention loop.
  • cz-sp-01-main-spring-plug.jpg
  • 24 - Mag Guide, full size, hvy-duty.comp.
  • More Robust Mag Guide - Pic is of the CZ stainless one.
CZSolidMagBreak.gif

If you order the T2 disco, that comes with one. And you will need to get one extra hammer pin. I ordered two extras but only needed the one.

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