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1911 barrel timing


TBF

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I have read Schueman's take on this, and think I understand the " timing test " he uses.

But splain this to me just to make sure ...

The lower barrel lugs should make contact , and the bottom of the barrel should NEVER make contact with the frame ? Ever ? Not even just a little ?

Any help in understanding the whole timing issue would be appreciated.

Especially wear pattern evaluation and alternate tests.

I just installed a Briley barrel that just barely contacts the frame bridge and shows full contact of the lower lugs when fired . I used Dykem to check the wear pattern.

Thanks in advance.

Travis F.

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Guest Larry Cazes

On ALL(4) of my custom built 1911s, I can see slight wear marks on the slide stop from the lower barrel lugs and the upper lugs show some wear but are still crisp and sharp at the edges. To me, this shows that the barrel is correctly contacting the slide stop on the lowers and there is plenty of clearance on the uppers when it is unlocked. By the way, NONE of my factory 1911s show any wear from the lower lugs on the stop.

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  • 9 years later...

On ALL(4) of my custom built 1911s, I can see slight wear marks on the slide stop from the lower barrel lugs and the upper lugs show some wear but are still crisp and sharp at the edges. To me, this shows that the barrel is correctly contacting the slide stop on the lowers and there is plenty of clearance on the uppers when it is unlocked. By the way, NONE of my factory 1911s show any wear from the lower lugs on the stop.

Same here. My STI's show the "polishing" of the slide stop cross pin and along the faces of the lower lugs. Toplugs are sharp after 20 years of use.

My "factory" Para barrel stands up on the link and is about .040" between the lower lugs and slide stop pin in lockup. Hardly close enough to yell howdy...... I suspect most mass made guns are up on the link because fitting it correctly takes a gunsmith plus time and they have neither.

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Hi Bountyhunter,

I have a thread on barrel fitting here in this forum. As a professional gs for more than 20 years, here is my take:

Schuemann's instructions on the bottom of the ramp not touching the frame is absolutely wrong. His instructions on cutting the frame to a depth of 0.315 in. is wrong.

The bottom of the ramp, ideally, should make contact on the horizontal surface, aka HIS.

STI and others cut the frame to a depth of 0.295 in. so that there is contact.

On a Colt/G.I. pistol, the bottom of the barrel contacts the barrel bed. Why should a ramped barrel be any different???

On pistols that have the horizontal surface cut too deep, the barrel will then contact the remains of the barrel bed, which will eventually get battered. This could lead to a condition where the barrel will then drag on the slide on the 4 and 8 o'clock positions and cause cycling problems.

Schuemann's timing tests on the VIS, however, is right on. I follow the timing tests wholeheartedly.

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