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Xtreme 'Titan' hammer


joakim

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  • 3 weeks later...
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I Installed the Titan Hammer and the light hammer and firing pin spring from EG. On the back of the hammer is now a spot where the black finish is gone. See picture. On the beavertail there is corresponding dull spot. Is it normal behaviour that the hammer touches the beaver tail when firing.

Do I have to worry about it? Springs that are too light?

post-57136-0-06601300-1446378673_thumb.j

Edited by HeavyD7042
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I Installed the Titan Hammer and the light hammer and firing pin spring from EG. On the back of the hammer is now a spot where the black finish is gone. See picture. On the beavertail there is corresponding dull spot. Is it normal behaviour that the hammer touches the beaver tail when firing.

Do I have to worry about it? Springs that are too light?

I have that on mine also, and I think it only happens when you are hand-cocking it.. if you rack the slide back, does the hammer make contact like that?

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When I rack the slide the hammer does not contact the beavertail. With the slide back and the slide stop engaged there is 5/32 inch between the hammer and the beavertail.

But I can imagine that when firing the slide gets thrown back with a lot more force and the hammer goes further then when racking manually?

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Ok, so this is normal with these guns? And with a lighter hammer spring it will hit the beavertail some more I presume.

I have some other guns with a large beavertail and with that gun the hammer can't go so far that it can hit the beavertail.

Edited by HeavyD7042
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  • 2 weeks later...

This has been a very useful thread, chock full of useful info, so thanks to all who contributed. Initial trigger work on my new Stock II included the following:

Polished everything, then polished some more, with:

8# recoil spring

Henning guide rod

Henning FP spring

Henning Gen4 FP

#18 plunger spring

Dawson f.o. front sight

The trigger felt nice and smooth, and got the DA to 7.5 or so, SA to 3.5, but only with Federal primers, zero ignition with CCI (my primers are well seated). And, as so well covered in this thread, the FPB failed to block the Gen4 FP.

So, round two (because I'd like it to ignite all primers and I'd like the trigger a bit lighter if possible) included:

Titan Hammer

Xtreme sear (original was 2 piece)

Xtreme FPB

same springs above

Henning Gen3 FP

more polishing

I still have to get to the range, and I'm hoping that CCI primers will run through it reliably. The Gen3 FP functions properly now with the extended FPB (but didn't with the stock short FPB) and the SA dropped a bit further to 3# or so, crisp, not bad at all. However, the DA is still 7.5 and even seems to stack a bit more with this hammer. Was disappointed. I have a CGW rp trs which i tried initially in round 1 and it didn't seem to make much difference, so i took it out. I was debating trying it again as well but haven't yet. Assuming reliable ignition, what else can I do to drop the DA a bit more? A couple turns off the 13# hammer spring?

Thanks

Robbie

Edited by rchaas
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Install EG light firing pin return spring and hammer spring.

I was getting your result, went back into polish mode. Actually like 3 times.

Polish the firing pin and the hole in the frame the pin goes in. Remove the extractor before polishing the hole.

Polish the plunger strut and head ESPECIALLY the hole the strut goes in. Shouldn't feel and thing moving the head up and down.

Polish the hammer spring strut and the hole it goes in.

Polish the hammer and strut pin holes so they swing effortlessly.

Polish the FPB and it's hole. now polish the firing pin hole again. Well, mine was extra nasty full of machining marks and needed 2 goes to smooth it out.

Weaker sear spring and weaker trigger spring.

I got 6 and a quarter da but after 1000 rounds, it started to have light strikes, so it got the wolff 13#. Since repolished holes and FP and FPB and now after 4-5000 triggerings (dry and live combined) it's about 6 1/2da and under 3 sa.

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Use the EG light hammer spring. I use a CGW CZ FPS for my plunger springs. CCI no problem although they weren't in the beginning until I got my ammo loading squared away better.

Just so i'm understanding you correctly, "I use a CGW CZ FPS for my plunger springs" you are talking about cutting them down and using them on the trigger bar plunger correct? Right now I have a Click Pen spring installed and every so often on a DA pull it will not catch until I let the trigger come forward with a little momentum. I am assuming my plunger spring is too weak to lift my trigger bar to catch the disco. Or my TRS is weak, My reset does not make much of a click anymore I have noticed.

Edited by Justinmac13
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Sounds like you need a stronger plunger spring.

I went from a click bic spring to the factory spring w 2 coils cut to get a more positive reset feel. But REALLY polished all aspects of the plunger at that time and that seems to give a nicer feel.

On the pendulum of changes, I'm now swinging towards slighty higher trigger force with dead reliable ignition. As opposed to a few oz lighter and worrying about hearing "click".

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Seems the EG light hammer and fp springs are backordered everywhere. Any suggestions on a source? My understanding is the EG light HS is 13.8# but a turn shorter or so than the Wolf spring? Meanwhile, more polishing! Thanks for suggestions.

Edited by rchaas
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Use the EG light hammer spring. I use a CGW CZ FPS for my plunger springs. CCI no problem although they weren't in the beginning until I got my ammo loading squared away better.

Just so i'm understanding you correctly, "I use a CGW CZ FPS for my plunger springs" you are talking about cutting them down and using them on the trigger bar plunger correct? Right now I have a Click Pen spring installed and every so often on a DA pull it will not catch until I let the trigger come forward with a little momentum. I am assuming my plunger spring is too weak to lift my trigger bar to catch the disco. Or my TRS is weak, My reset does not make much of a click anymore I have noticed.

yep the plunger spring being too weak does give a weak reset and leaves you without that nice positive reset feeling.

Henning does sell a bunch of various weight plunger springs. you can buy a pack of 4 or 5 different weights from memory. I found the one shipped with my henning trigger was far too light for my taste. yes I got a sub 2lb trigger but the reset felt weak and mushy to me. I like a nice positive push forward to help it reset fast. I bought a bunch of his springs and I think went up 2 weights (still lighter than factory).

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Use the EG light hammer spring. I use a CGW CZ FPS for my plunger springs. CCI no problem although they weren't in the beginning until I got my ammo loading squared away better.

Just so i'm understanding you correctly, "I use a CGW CZ FPS for my plunger springs" you are talking about cutting them down and using them on the trigger bar plunger correct? Right now I have a Click Pen spring installed and every so often on a DA pull it will not catch until I let the trigger come forward with a little momentum. I am assuming my plunger spring is too weak to lift my trigger bar to catch the disco. Or my TRS is weak, My reset does not make much of a click anymore I have noticed.

It fits without cutting. Its the same length and diameter, more or less, as the stock plunger spring. I tried the pen spring thing and that didn't last long because of the same issue you are having.

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Use the EG light hammer spring. I use a CGW CZ FPS for my plunger springs. CCI no problem although they weren't in the beginning until I got my ammo loading squared away better.

Just so i'm understanding you correctly, "I use a CGW CZ FPS for my plunger springs" you are talking about cutting them down and using them on the trigger bar plunger correct? Right now I have a Click Pen spring installed and every so often on a DA pull it will not catch until I let the trigger come forward with a little momentum. I am assuming my plunger spring is too weak to lift my trigger bar to catch the disco. Or my TRS is weak, My reset does not make much of a click anymore I have noticed.

It fits without cutting. Its the same length and diameter, more or less, as the stock plunger spring. I tried the pen spring thing and that didn't last long because of the same issue you are having.

Good to know, I have some cz parts laying around I will give this a try, I was going to order the henning plunger springs but wanted to wait till I thought I needed more parts. Paying high shipping for two small springs just seems to piss me off.

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Just installed the titan hammer and one piece sear on my stock 2. Can't tell much of a difference between the stock hammer and 2 piece sear. DA trigger pull is right at 7lbs now with the xtreme light springs and SA is 3lbs 11oz.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just installed the titan hammer and one piece sear on my stock 2. Can't tell much of a difference between the stock hammer and 2 piece sear. DA trigger pull is right at 7lbs now with the xtreme light springs and SA is 3lbs 11oz.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

That's why I have been hesitant to install them on my Elite Match. I have a sub 3 in trigger with my stock internals after some polishing.

Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk

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  • 4 months later...

besides a crisper SA ; does the Titan shorten the reset ???

I didn't notice any change in reset or pretravel. T3 fixed both... mostly. Patriot Defense is working on a better solution.

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