haiedras Posted June 16, 2015 Share Posted June 16, 2015 Potato, Potatoe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EngineerEli Posted June 16, 2015 Share Posted June 16, 2015 Of course, the problem is that we don't know really know which part of that sear is "long." Wow, this went south quickly, lol But in response, that is my concern exactly, I have no idea what dimension is longer. If you wanted to buy one just to find out, I'd love to hear your results, but a quick email to Eric Grauffel, may be the best way. I've heard he is pretty accessible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haiedras Posted June 16, 2015 Share Posted June 16, 2015 (edited) Hey, sometimes levity helps to break up a difficult challenge. I took a picture of the one piece sear in my stock 3 along with a brand new sear from EG. AFAIK, I'd assume the longer dimensions are on the leg with the hump pushing up against the FPB. I do know when himurax13 and I were working on it last night, he had to do some creative shaping on the underside of the right sear leg to get the angles just right and engage the safety. Iphone hates me, so I'll post the pics now and figure out putting bright red circles and arrows on it later. Edited June 16, 2015 by haiedras Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EngineerEli Posted June 16, 2015 Share Posted June 16, 2015 Wait, are you saying the one in your hand, or the one in the gun is the 'Long' sear? Or are you just hypothesizing? If that was the part that was longer, or taller, that would solve our issues! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haiedras Posted June 16, 2015 Share Posted June 16, 2015 Looking at them, I think they're both the standard 1 piece sears. I reused the original sear when we put the Titan hammer in. Had to fit the sear to the safety since the geometry changed. We did test the FPB and it still worked. Then again, I have a EG extended firing pin, not any of the henning new stuff since my tanfos are small frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EngineerEli Posted June 16, 2015 Share Posted June 16, 2015 OK, that makes sense. There are two things working in your favor, the fact that you started stock with the 1 piece sear, probably means you have the extended FPB to start with. Also, the lock up dimensions of the Xtreme FP are identical to the factory FP, or so I'm led to believe. I have tested my factory FP and it works fine. I think the problem is just with the splined Gen 4 Henning FP at this point. (As long you have the currently offered extended FPB [.508"]) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calvinc78 Posted June 16, 2015 Share Posted June 16, 2015 Anyone know where you can buy a extended FPB? I know last round sells them it there back ordered and can't find anyone else selling them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
praetorian97 Posted June 16, 2015 Share Posted June 16, 2015 Id email Eric's Shop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgil275 Posted June 16, 2015 Share Posted June 16, 2015 Anyone know where you can buy a extended FPB? I know last round sells them it there back ordered and can't find anyone else selling them Before the extended FPB was introduced, I would have a welding bead added to the FPB, then hand fitted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C-Money Posted June 17, 2015 Share Posted June 17, 2015 I've used the EG firing pin with the Titan hammer to get reliable FP block engagement. Neither the Gen 3 or Gen 4 Henning pins worked. I use the extended FP block with no material removed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeerBaron Posted June 17, 2015 Share Posted June 17, 2015 It's the blade that's longer on the long sear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bayougump Posted June 17, 2015 Share Posted June 17, 2015 It's the blade that's longer on the long sear. How would having a longer blade on the sear be beneficial compared to the old style sear or length sear? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waktasz Posted June 17, 2015 Share Posted June 17, 2015 The hammer is back further when cocked. More powah! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EngineerEli Posted June 17, 2015 Share Posted June 17, 2015 It's the blade that's longer on the long sear. Makes sense, It allows you to fit it perfectly to your hammer especially if you are messing a lot with the hooks. If that is the case though, we can eliminate the 'long' sear as a possible solution to our problem... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
praetorian97 Posted June 17, 2015 Share Posted June 17, 2015 (edited) Plus my testing shows that its not required. I'm running a standard one piece sear with a light hammer spring. The Titan is igniting reliably. If I were to do this over again on a new SIII, I would specifically seek out the long sear though. More fail safes are better. Edited June 17, 2015 by praetorian97 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EngineerEli Posted June 17, 2015 Share Posted June 17, 2015 I'd be careful. If you think about it if the blade is longer, and catches the hammer hooks further back the geometry would be wrong, it would either need considerable fitting on the hammer and hooks, or you would just shorten the blade until you achieved reliable function, which is where you started. Personally I'll stick with the standard one... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbarker13 Posted June 27, 2015 Share Posted June 27, 2015 So I talked with Henning tonight about the issue some of us are having with the Gen 4 firing pins. He said he'll look further into it. Said he might even end up making his own firing pin block. Also said he may talk with Eric about the length of the extended FP block. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nhjeffs Posted June 27, 2015 Share Posted June 27, 2015 When I first installed the one piece sear and an Extreme firing pin , the original firing pin block worked fine. The last few times that I have checked it, the pin would pass the block. Tonight the original firing pin block measured .494". The extended firing pin block measured .508" and is stopping the pin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zsavage81 Posted July 2, 2015 Share Posted July 2, 2015 Heads up about the Titan. I know Eric's site says they are drop in, but I've found 2 that catch the sear on the half cock notch and required a little fitting. As with everything on these guns, it seems there is never a "one size fits all" solution. Just keep an eye out for it. I've been talking to Eric a lot about this issue, and my boy Brandon and I have also been trying to work through it. Unfortunately I don't have anything significant to report yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EngineerEli Posted July 2, 2015 Share Posted July 2, 2015 That to me would sound like you just need to loosen your over travel screw... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeerBaron Posted July 3, 2015 Share Posted July 3, 2015 (edited) The hammer is back further when cocked. More powah! word! the blade on my henning sear was so long my hammer (also henning/egw) has dug out little marks in the beavertail! doh. it was also so long that there is only just enough rear movement induced by the slide to allow the hammer hooks to catch. sometimes if racked by hand without any 'authority' the hammer will fail to catch the sear. I have some spare sears on the way. there is at least one long and one regular in there. I'll get some pics and measurements up for you tanfo fiends... Edited July 3, 2015 by BeerBaron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeerBaron Posted July 3, 2015 Share Posted July 3, 2015 Heads up about the Titan. I know Eric's site says they are drop in, but I've found 2 that catch the sear on the half cock notch and required a little fitting. As with everything on these guns, it seems there is never a "one size fits all" solution. Just keep an eye out for it. I've been talking to Eric a lot about this issue, and my boy Brandon and I have also been trying to work through it. Unfortunately I don't have anything significant to report yet. the thing is if you want as little overtravel as possible you end up with less sear lift. in that case it's very easy to have the sear drag on the half cock hooks. personally on an open gun I remove the half cock hook practically all together. half cock is useless to me. for a production gun that's not really an option. in that case allowing a little more overtravel will create more sear lift which should have it clear the half cock nicely. unless you're talking about it bouncing back to half cock? that can happen too and people often think it's catching at half cock. but when tested with a pencil in there you find it's actually striking the firing pin then returning to half cock. that's an issue of the trigger bar hitting the bottom part of the hammer. it's not usually a problem in live fire, but can be easily fixed by clearancing the bottom of the hammer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EngineerEli Posted July 8, 2015 Share Posted July 8, 2015 So I talked with Henning tonight about the issue some of us are having with the Gen 4 firing pins. He said he'll look further into it. Said he might even end up making his own firing pin block. Also said he may talk with Eric about the length of the extended FP block. Hey, any update for us??? Are you throwing in the towel? I just saw you posted your Gen 4 FP on the classifieds... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbarker13 Posted July 8, 2015 Share Posted July 8, 2015 No updates. I'm not really throwing in the towel yet. But I guess I'm thinking it may not be a quick fix. I have a couple Gen 4 pins and I'll hold onto one of them at least in hopes that this thing gets solved. I'm getting very reliable ignition with my current setup (gen 3 pin and Titan hammer). But then, I've only been using Federal primers. I need to try it with some Winchester primers to see if it's still as reliable. It would be nice to have options besides Federals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waktasz Posted July 8, 2015 Share Posted July 8, 2015 CCI work great for me, as long as they are seated well. In other news, my gen4 pin which was working fine, is no longer blocked by the FP safety. My gen 3 pin was reliable, it would occasionally get stuck in the gun when dry firing though, so I hated it. I guess I will put it back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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