Beastly Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 +1 - or even some more description and/or pics. I'd like to take a shot at it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waktasz Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 I just sanded a bit from the bottom...the part that sticks out of the slide when it is installed. Basically how I came to do it is that the factory part, once I installed the EG hammer was not working at all. With the gun cocked, you could push the firing pin all the way through. I bought the extended firing pin safety and with that installed the gun would not fire at all. I took a bit off the bottom until it would clear. The difference between the gun not firing at all, and the safety not working at all was the difference between .504 (the size of the now modified firing pin safety) and .497 (the size of the stock one) Hopefully I'm explaining it well enough for you, and I must admit it was not my idea to do all of that. Brandon E. helped me figure out what was causing my light strikes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beastly Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 That's perfect, thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beastly Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 We recommend you to install your new hammer with a new sear to avoid long time installation. IPSC production legal NB: Hammer package does not include interruptor, hammer strut and pins. Must be ordered separately So, if I have the 1 piece sear, and an existing Delta hammer, could/should I re-use the existing interruptor/hammer strut and pins, or am I better off ordering all the parts as a replacement hammer 'kit' that is more easily swapped in and out?Also, I see some of the parts at LRA (Titan Hammer, Interruptor & Interruptor Pin) but not the hammer strut and hammer strut pin. IF I need them, any preferences on where to get them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waktasz Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 You don't need all that. If you already have the one piece sear and don't bugger up the pins you are fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gdub Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 Who sells the extended firing pin safeties? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam B Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 Who sells the extended firing pin safeties? http://www.lastroundarmament.com/product/egd-extreme-safety-firing-pin-block-extended/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gdub Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 Who sells the extended firing pin safeties? http://www.lastroundarmament.com/product/egd-extreme-safety-firing-pin-block-extended/ Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EngineerEli Posted March 23, 2015 Share Posted March 23, 2015 (edited) So I'm still struggling with this... Here in the US, where we can use whatever hammer spring weight we want, and we can use the Henning extended firing pin, if we want to be able to reliably set off CCI primers, and achieve the best trigger pull in double and single action, should we be going with the Titan or Xtreme Delta??? (Personally I like the delta's aesthetics much better, and it looks lighter, and as though it would have much better lock times) Thanks! PS: I do understand this may come down to personal opinion, but lets hear all of yours... Edited March 23, 2015 by EngineerEli Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beastly Posted March 23, 2015 Share Posted March 23, 2015 I ordered the Titan Hammer, will see how it goes. My current setup with Extreme parts and stock springs is a smooth ~7 lb 6 oz DA / 2 lb 13 oz SA and is setting off all my (Wolf, Fiocchi, Win & Federal) primers and reportedly CCI primers well. I am curious what benefits I can realize with the Titan hammer, reduced power springs and Federal Primers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jom Posted March 24, 2015 Share Posted March 24, 2015 just installed the titan hammer with the light springs and it pops up all my cci reloads 100 rounds 100%. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wesquire Posted March 26, 2015 Share Posted March 26, 2015 New to this, when it says you have to order the strut/pins separately, can't you just use the ones from the factory hammer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
earthshine402 Posted March 26, 2015 Share Posted March 26, 2015 New to this, when it says you have to order the strut/pins separately, can't you just use the ones from the factory hammer? yes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rialcel Posted March 27, 2015 Share Posted March 27, 2015 Take the firing pin block out and see if you still have problems with the CCI primers. After fitting my FPB properly and making sure I load my ammo correctly (seat those primers in there nice and deep!) I have no issues with CCI Thank you so much for the advice. I had function tested without the FPB already so knew it wasn't that. After reading your post I seated my cci's deeper then function tested and low and behold no light strikes. It is amazing how that small increase in seating depth gives the FP just that much more force to reliably set them off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
praetorian97 Posted April 19, 2015 Share Posted April 19, 2015 (edited) Well I have finished my Stock III work minus a fitted Extended FPB. I was having a ridiculously high number of light primer strikes out just in DA mode. it would always go off on another DA pull on the same round. Remington primers.Contemplated the New Gen IV Henning Firing pin and switching from the Delta Hammer to the Titan. I know my gun is on the edge with being a light pull. I'm at a 2.5lb SA and a 7.5lb DA pull. After reading this thread I went and seated aboutt 100 rounds very carefully. Stayed after the match today and shot all 100 rounds in DA mode. Thats rough to do LOL. Only 4 LPS in the whole batch and the 4 that did it went off on the second DA pull. So it looks like if I want to leave the gun as is and keep using Remingtons, I need to seat my primers much more carefully. I currently case gauge all my ammo and check for high primers, but had no idea how much lower these need to be. Edited April 20, 2015 by praetorian97 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvincent Posted May 10, 2015 Share Posted May 10, 2015 Just installed a Titan hammer in a stock II. Kept the original 2 piece sear, and 2 wing interrupter in. Everything has been polished and EG light hammer and FP springs. DA was unnoticeable. In SA the trigger creep is pretty much gone, due to the smaller hammer hooks. It did add pre travel though. Might try a T-3 interrupter. Reset seems similar. Safety is inop, will have to be fitted. So really only gain was less trigger creep, but it added pre travel. May just go back to the stock hammer, it was working fine. Just wanted to try the Titan. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeavyD7042 Posted June 6, 2015 Share Posted June 6, 2015 I have a Stock II Xtreme. Is it worthwhile to replace the Delta trigger with the Titan trigger? Will this make the DA better? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bayougump Posted June 6, 2015 Share Posted June 6, 2015 I have a Titan hammer in one my Stock III's and honestly I can't tell big difference in the Delta. The SA is crazy short but I don't think that's got to to with the hammer. I just got my other stock II in yesterday and since I wanted to shoot it I took the delta hammer out my other Stock III and I think works just fine. Eventually I'm gonna try the Titan in one but have to get another one piece dear as I removed too much material from safety leg and the safety won't stay engaged with the Titan hammer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
praetorian97 Posted June 9, 2015 Share Posted June 9, 2015 (edited) I've done a lot of testing with the Delta Vs Titan in a Stock III. If you want a "fully" reliable trigger run the 13# Wolff with either hammer. If you want a lighter trigger with the Xtreme Light Springs, you should run the Titan. You shouldn't have to be limited to a certain primer or setup. There is a reason Eric designed a whole new hammer. Edited June 9, 2015 by praetorian97 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
earthshine402 Posted June 9, 2015 Share Posted June 9, 2015 (edited) I've done a lot of testing with the Delta Vs Titan in a Stock III. If you want a "fully" reliable trigger run the 13# Wolff with either hammer. If you want a lighter trigger with the Xtreme Light Springs, you should run the Titan. You shouldn't have to be limited to a certain primer or setup. There is a reason Eric designed a whole new hammer. What firing pin did you use for this testing? I'm having some trouble with the normal and extended firing pin blocks with Henning gen 3 and 4 firing pins regarding proper blockage of the pin when not pulling the trigger. I wonder if it can be reliable with the factory firing pin- regarding correct safety function and reliable primer ignition. Edited June 9, 2015 by earthshine402 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
praetorian97 Posted June 9, 2015 Share Posted June 9, 2015 (edited) One piece sear or two piece? Did you fit the Extended FPB? Edited June 9, 2015 by praetorian97 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EngineerEli Posted June 9, 2015 Share Posted June 9, 2015 (edited) I've done a lot of testing with the Delta Vs Titan in a Stock III. If you want a "fully" reliable trigger run the 13# Wolff with either hammer. If you want a lighter trigger with the Xtreme Light Springs, you should run the Titan. You shouldn't have to be limited to a certain primer or setup. There is a reason Eric designed a whole new hammer. What firing pin did you use for this testing? I'm having some trouble with the normal and extended firing pin blocks with Henning gen 3 and 4 firing pins regarding proper blockage of the pin when not pulling the trigger. I wonder if it can be reliable with the factory firing pin- regarding correct safety function and reliable primer ignition. If I understand you correctly I am experiencing the same thing. I have the Titan Hammer, 1 piece sear, and Henning gen 4 extended firing pin in my Stock II. I bought an extended FPB from LRA, but It seems like it is right on the edge of being long enough. Sometimes when i rack the slide then push on the FP it will stop it once or twice then get by it, sometimes it doesn't engage it at all. I am waiting on a solution from LRA, who has been in communication with Eric G. Its been over a month since I first identified the problem, and I still have no solution. I would definitely not try shooting a major match with the gun for fear of being bumped to open.... Trigger in SA and especially DA is pretty awesome though! Edited June 9, 2015 by EngineerEli Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
earthshine402 Posted June 9, 2015 Share Posted June 9, 2015 One piece sear or two piece? Did you fit the Extended FPB?One piece sear. With the extended block, no fitting initially, the gen 4 henning firing pin was not blocked. Initial tests with gen 3 pin at first appeared ok, but i experienced a few light strikes. I sanded the block from 0.505 to 0.504 and then the gen 3 pin was not blocked. Seems like something is right on the edge with the 1 pc sear. I put the factory pin in with my modified extended block and it blocked the pin, i have not test fired this yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bayougump Posted June 9, 2015 Share Posted June 9, 2015 So does anyone by chance have an extra one-piece sear that they fitted to a Titan hammer? Or would someone more mechanically inclined and with the proper tools like to fit one and I'll pay them for the trouble? I have to do the old school way of sandpaper to remove material and it's a pain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
earthshine402 Posted June 9, 2015 Share Posted June 9, 2015 So does anyone by chance have an extra one-piece sear that they fitted to a Titan hammer? Or would someone more mechanically inclined and with the proper tools like to fit one and I'll pay them for the trouble? I have to do the old school way of sandpaper to remove material and it's a pain.What? The sear needs to be fit to the safety, pretty sure the sear/ hammer engagement should be left alone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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