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Gen 4 Glock 19 trigger help?


ICEMAN550

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If it's a Gen4 then the heavier trigger return spring has been known to cause failure to reset. The (-) is usually a 3.5lb connector. Give it a polish on the face and along the inside edge of the lip. Stick it in there and give it a try. The 5lb striker spring will make the trigger pull weight a touch lighter as well and I suspect the connector and striker spring alone would put you around the 4-4.5lb range.

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The LW connector is a very good connector surprising to most. Charlie even uses it in his kits along with my self and Johnny. They just work. I have used the TTI as well and it's very nice too. Either will work and the factory 3.5 is good. The angle on the connector lip is what eases the trigger break and each one (-), (), 5lb and 8lb will give diff feels in break

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Would you put this connector in a carry gun? With the connector alone any idea on what I can expect? This is in response tp the zev 2# race connector. I am aware a 2# trigger would not be recommended for carry,but I am guessing that would be with comp spring kit?

Edited by ICEMAN550
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Would you put this connector in a carry gun? With the connector alone any idea on what I can expect? This is in response tp the zev 2# race connector. I am aware a 2# trigger would not be recommended for carry,but I am guessing that would be with comp spring kit?

The GW connector will only reduce your trigger pull by approximately 16oz. and you said your trigger pull was 7# 3oz.

You need to have someone look at your Glock if it truly has a 7# 3oz. trigger pull.

Edited by JBP55
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JBP55,

I don't think that it is too rare for the gen 4's. Some are very good, but have real a lot of comments about gen 4 triggers being heavy. They don't seem to be as consistent as the gen 3's. A friend of mine has an average 5 pulls of 6.2# with the ghoct 3.5 connector on a gen 4 19. He even had the Gun Center install it. Maybe they cheapened the blue label glocks since they are sold for less?

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Blue label Glocks are not "sold for less" they are sold at reduced MAP price for public safety. They are shipped with 3 hi cap magazines for LEO. They are the same gun. The angle of the ejector housing is slightly different in the Gen4 which causes the trigger issues. And the reason for the () connector to my understanding

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JBP55,

I don't think that it is too rare for the gen 4's. Some are very good, but have real a lot of comments about gen 4 triggers being heavy. They don't seem to be as consistent as the gen 3's. A friend of mine has an average 5 pulls of 6.2# with the ghoct 3.5 connector on a gen 4 19. He even had the Gun Center install it. Maybe they cheapened the blue label glocks since they are sold for less?

I do not keep a count but I have used a trigger pull gauge on Gen 4 pistols far more than 1,000 times and I can tell you a OEM small frame Glock with a trigger pull of 7.3# is pretty rare and needs work on the OEM components as well as lubrication.

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Following this thread with interest. I bought a G19 gen 4 few months back. My trigger stock scales 7 lb stock. I did the polish job with a dremel and saw no improvement. I put in a Zev connector and their safety plunger. It came down to 6.3lbs. Appears i need some springs next, not sure though. Want to get to that same 4.5-5lb range. SO there are indeed heavy triggers on these gen 4s.

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What changes does TTI do to their minus connector besides Polish ?

They have a few things they have done to the connector. It's a nickel plating process to coat it then they are different in a few other areas it isn't just a GLOCK (-) connector it's made for TTI

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The biggest difference you can see other than the debris holes is the angle at the top of the connector. The OEM angle is more abrupt so that the beak of the trigger bar falls off the connector quickly. The TTI connector has a gentler angle so that it takes less effort to move the beak against it but it remains on the connector longer. It takes less effort to break the trigger but the trigger pull is somewhat longer because of the different slope used. The OEM connectors give you the glass rod type break but with a lot more effort where as the TTI connector is more of a rolling break that is much easier to achieve. At least that is my experience using these connectors.

Edited by bowenbuilt
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I just went through this with a new Gen 4 17. I polished the "." connector and no difference. I bought a "-" and polished it and it still didn't feel very good. At the advise of a local gun shop I put in a Zex connecter. I am running a the Zev race connector, a 5 pound Wolf spring, a gen 3 trigger/bar and a light spring in the safety plunger (with the plunger itself polished). Makes a very nice trigger and resets great.

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I just went through this with a new Gen 4 17. I polished the "." connector and no difference. I bought a "-" and polished it and it still didn't feel very good. At the advise of a local gun shop I put in a Zex connecter. I am running a the Zev race connector, a 5 pound Wolf spring, a gen 3 trigger/bar and a light spring in the safety plunger (with the plunger itself polished). Makes a very nice trigger and resets great.

Your trigger should be smoother and approximately 1# 5oz. lighter than before.

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Your trigger should be smoother and approximately 1# 5oz. lighter than before.

I've read a heavier spring makes the trigger lighter, and vice versa. So.. . If stock is 5.5# going to a 5# spring would make the weight higher. Trying to understand.

As i mentioned I have the Zev connector and their plunger with spring but I'm still at 6.3#.

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The connector only changes the angle of the connector to make it easier for the trigger bar to drive down. The plunger spring is very very minimal in the effect of the trigger pull. Going down in striker spring weight does not make the trigger heavier.

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I thought the spring referred to was the trigger spring. So to understand what is the lbs on the stock striker spring AND stock trigger spring.

Lower the striker spring weight should lower trigger weight but also hit the primer with less force... Right? Whereas the opposite is true with the trigger spring with no effect on primer strikes.

Which is better to change?

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I can not seriously tell any difference in factory or extra power trigger spring. The extra power trigger spring will cause reset issues in the Gen4. I use factory rated power trigger springs in all of my kits now.

Yes using a lighter striker spring will cause less force on the strike if the striker is factory weight. Usually going below a 4.5lb spring with a factory striker will cause light strikes. I never recommend lower than a 5lb spring if going to be a CCW weapon.

Edited by dskinsler83
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I can not seriously tell any difference in factory or extra power trigger spring. The extra power trigger spring will cause reset issues in the Gen4. I use factory rated power trigger springs in all of my kits now.

Yes using a lighter striker spring will cause less force on the strike if the striker is factory weight. Usually going below a 4.5lb spring with a factory striker will cause light strikes. I never recommend lower than a 5lb spring if going to be a CCW weapon.

I agree with all of the above.

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How much improvement do you think I will get by going to a 5lb spring.... given I'm at 6.3lbs trigger weight now.

It will reduce the trigger pull in the 5oz. range.
Which doesn't get me to the 5lb that I'm after. The connector and plunger improved the trigger by about 11 ounces.... If i get that spring the total I'd get from those changes are less than 1lb, which doesn't seem in line with the amount of improvement that I've read about. Not understanding that. Maybe i need to determine why the G19 new scaled at 7lb versus the supposed 5.5lb.

BTW i have a LWD trigger coming once backorders are clear. Know you are working with them.

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