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Light primer strikes on Zev Open Glock - Help!


Davidp1911

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  • 3 weeks later...

I also have some issues with mine. I have the ZEV skeletonized striker and the striker spring (4 lb). It works very well but on occasion it wont ignite 1 out of 30 rounds. In a competition, that would be of huge difference obviously.

The trigger feel is great with it but due to the above, what I have so far done is temporarily put back the stock striker spring, cutting 2 coils. So far works 100% of the time. The downside is that the trigger pull is not as light as the zev striker spring. Resolving this issue is still in progress as I am keen to use the zev.

I will begin to try different primer brands. So far I have used winchester and Fiocchi. I intend to use CCI pistol primers and cross fingers.

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The 4.5 should be about half way between the 4# and the stock spring missing 2 coils. It won't be quite as light as the 4# spring be it will be reliable. It's easy enough to become accustom to, in a short while you won't know the difference.

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Searching brownells but they seem to only have 4lb wolf striker spring and the next increment was 5.5lb. You sure there is a 4.5lb?

Wolff makes a 4#/4.5#/5#/5.5#/6# spring. If you do not find one send me a PM and I will mail one to you.

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Ok, will get one and give that a go. In your experience, is the 4.5 lb wolff spring producing good trigger pull weight? My objective was to achieve a reduced trigger pull weight in my open glock

[/quote

The 4.5# Wolff spring will increase the trigger pull weight approximately 5oz. over the 4# spring.

Edited by JBP55
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In my experience glocks are not reliable on striker springs lighter than the oem on a lot of primer brands. My open Glock 9maj w/ oem striker spring and 2#5oz pull in my Lyman gage is 100% on Winchester, CCI and Fed. Primers. Use a lighter spring and it becomes a Fed. only gun for 100% reliability. Ymmv.

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In my experience glocks are not reliable on striker springs lighter than the oem on a lot of primer brands. My open Glock 9maj w/ oem striker spring and 2#5oz pull in my Lyman gage is 100% on Winchester, CCI and Fed. Primers. Use a lighter spring and it becomes a Fed. only gun for 100% reliability. Ymmv.

Maybe not on cheap Eastern Bloc ammunition or primers but the 4.5# and 5.0# Wolff springs work on Winchester, Federal, Speer and Winchester factory ammunition when preventative maintenance is practiced. I put 52,000+ rounds through a Gen 4 G17 with zero issues using a Vanek trigger with a Jager striker and a 4# Wolff spring. My other Glocks with OEM firing pins worked as well with the 4.5# and 5# Wolff springs.

I use American Eagle or Lawman ammunition when it is available.

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  • 3 months later...

I've ran a ZEV 3lbs striker spring for about 10000 rds with CCI primers with the ZEV extended striker. No light strikes till just recently, replaced with same spring. Runs again with no light strikes. I also noticed when I do get a light strike, my primer was not seated all the way in, it was barely out, less then .005 and it will not ignite.

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I have been running both Remington and federal small pistol primers out of my full zev limited gun and haven't had a problem with the 2# zev striker spring. Same if the primers weren't seated all the way I would have a light strike.

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How do you tell it was the primer that was n not seated vs. the gun?

Probably can't in a striker fired gun. In a DA gun, if you drop the hammer on the round a second time and it ignites, it's probably a primer seating problem.

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How do you tell it was the primer that was n not seated vs. the gun?

Probably can't in a striker fired gun. In a DA gun, if you drop the hammer on the round a second time and it ignites, it's probably a primer seating problem.

This can be the same in striker fired pistols as well. I recommend seating a primer as deep as you machine will allow for any Glock pistol that has upgrades, treat it just like a Revolver or CZ/Tangolio that have light trigger springs.

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In my gun I have had a lot of ftf. I load the rounds back up, an one in three will not light off. This was with stock glock parts

Then you are definitely not seating primers properly. If more than half light off the second time that's the issue. I'd see if there's certain brass that you see this with more often. S&B is hard to primer, ditto on crimped brass.

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I checked the failed cases and they were inconsistent head stamps. I had a couple other guys look over the loaded rounds and they agreed the primers were set very deep. I also inspect the primers after loading. At the time I was using a ton of force to seat the primers. For whatever reason I had these issues for a month or two. I started sorting my brass, and I readjusted everything, and i stopped having the issues for the most part.

Part off my thinks i was seating them too hard. Some of the primers were smeared to one side.

Edited by b1gcountry
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