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X-Treme Bullets Feedback?


Duane Thomas

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I like the 147 HPCB in 9mm. While I do like the xtreme product, I think it is more difficult to develop an accurate load for anyone's plated bullet vs a jacketed equivalent or even coated. Xtreme's seem to have thicker plating than other brands.

Their customer service is A++. Good people to business with.

In your article it may be note worthy to explain that many people have been frustrated loading plated bullets because they failed to understand how sensitive they are to over crimping.

Look forwarding to reading your work

Agree.

Using 9 135 HP for production, Tested 115 heavy plated for open (cheaper than MG and just as accurate), wish they would produce 115 hp in heavy plated. Waiting on 2000 180 FP for limited.

X-Treme always run sales, bullets are in stock, ships fast, mil vet discount, and the price is right. If they produce 115 hp heavy plate , I would have no need for the more expensive Montana Gold.

From what I understand their HP bullets are thick plated. Yep just read it again here:

http://www.xtremebullets.com/Bullet-Load-Info-s/1952.htm

They do not make 115 HP heavy plate concave base. Only round nose so far.

LCS, you need to read what is on their site and not rely on the simple designations listed for each bullet. Right in the bullet and load info area, in big red letters it says "All Hollow Points are Heavy Plate Concave Base but are not designed to be used as a defense round."

This means they are ALL HPCB even if the bullet description does not say so.

Really? Do you work for X-treme? Official X-treme spokesperson? Thanks for advise I don't need. I've been using X-treme bullets for quite a long time.

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I am the wrong person to ask, I would like to know also since I have a box of xtremes sitting on my porch right now :) I have not loaded lead or plated until now. But I had heard that little to no crimp is the way to go. I would start at .380 with a dummy load, and see if you can get any setback by pushing it into your bench if no movement is seen, then check that itll chamber. if either tests dont pass, bump the crimp down .001-.002 each time. But I am pretty certain that if you go much past .376 you will be way far. You should also pull a round after you crimp to see if you are marking the bullet at all.

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I like the 147 HPCB in 9mm. While I do like the xtreme product, I think it is more difficult to develop an accurate load for anyone's plated bullet vs a jacketed equivalent or even coated. Xtreme's seem to have thicker plating than other brands.

Their customer service is A++. Good people to business with.

In your article it may be note worthy to explain that many people have been frustrated loading plated bullets because they failed to understand how sensitive they are to over crimping.

Look forwarding to reading your work

Agree.

Using 9 135 HP for production, Tested 115 heavy plated for open (cheaper than MG and just as accurate), wish they would produce 115 hp in heavy plated. Waiting on 2000 180 FP for limited.

X-Treme always run sales, bullets are in stock, ships fast, mil vet discount, and the price is right. If they produce 115 hp heavy plate , I would have no need for the more expensive Montana Gold.

From what I understand their HP bullets are thick plated. Yep just read it again here:

http://www.xtremebullets.com/Bullet-Load-Info-s/1952.htm

They do not make 115 HP heavy plate concave base. Only round nose so far.

LCS, you need to read what is on their site and not rely on the simple designations listed for each bullet. Right in the bullet and load info area, in big red letters it says "All Hollow Points are Heavy Plate Concave Base but are not designed to be used as a defense round."

This means they are ALL HPCB even if the bullet description does not say so.

Really? Do you work for X-treme? Official X-treme spokesperson? Thanks for advise I don't need. I've been using X-treme bullets for quite a long time.

"I can get a hell of a good look at a T-Bone steak by sticking my head up a bull's ass, but I'd rather take the butcher's word for it."

So yes, I have spoken with the CS at X-Treme and they told me that ALL hollow points are heavy plate, but that it is easier to place the notice on their info page rather than noting the same thing for every HP bullet. So not only does their site have this listed, but it is also what is given to me by their customer service people.

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For 9mm, 40cal, and 45ACP is use the taper crimp from a Lee FCD. No roll cripm. Get good performance.

Taper crimp die or factory crimp die?

The factory crimp die - it produces a taper crimp. http://leeprecision.com/reloading-dies/hand-gun-dies/lee-carbide-factory-crimp-die/

https://www.dillonprecision.com/#/content/p/9/pid/24445/catid/4/Dillon_Carbide_Pistol_Dies__Three_Die_Sets_

Luckly Dillon's dies come with a taper crimp

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I have been using the Xtreme 124gr FP in my M&P Pro 9mm for over a year. I have had very good results with them, accuracy was good enough for me 1.5" at 15 yards off sandbag rest. They probably would be smaller groups but my eyesight I think is the limiting factor. I use a pretty good crimp 0.376" when I pull a bullet it does have a slight ring but the plating is not broken. I loaded and shot about 10k last year and was very satisfied with the results.

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For 9mm, 40cal, and 45ACP is use the taper crimp from a Lee FCD. No roll cripm. Get good performance.

Taper crimp die or factory crimp die?

The factory crimp die - it produces a taper crimp. http://leeprecision.com/reloading-dies/hand-gun-dies/lee-carbide-factory-crimp-die/

https://www.dillonprecision.com/#/content/p/9/pid/24445/catid/4/Dillon_Carbide_Pistol_Dies__Three_Die_Sets_

Luckly Dillon's dies come with a taper crimp

Actually dillon dies, as well as every other brand I know of, comes in the APPROPRIATE crimp for the specific round being loaded. I know of a guy who was roll crimping his 9mm rounds like they were 38 specials. Couldn't figure out why he couldn't hit anything. :goof:

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For 9mm, 40cal, and 45ACP is use the taper crimp from a Lee FCD. No roll cripm. Get good performance.

Taper crimp die or factory crimp die?

The factory crimp die - it produces a taper crimp. http://leeprecision.com/reloading-dies/hand-gun-dies/lee-carbide-factory-crimp-die/

https://www.dillonprecision.com/#/content/p/9/pid/24445/catid/4/Dillon_Carbide_Pistol_Dies__Three_Die_Sets_

Luckly Dillon's dies come with a taper crimp

Actually dillon dies, as well as every other brand I know of, comes in the APPROPRIATE crimp for the specific round being loaded. I know of a guy who was roll crimping his 9mm rounds like they were 38 specials. Couldn't figure out why he couldn't hit anything. :goof:

This is also how I found out there is such a thing as a .45 Auto Rim seat/crimp die, in case any 625 users want some really slick rounds to drop into those chambers.

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I see a ton of crimp questions. Here is how you set your "crimp", measure the thickness of your brass near the edge, multiply this by two and add it to the diameter of the bullet. That number should be your "crimp" (i.e., the diameter of the brass near the edge).

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Duane.

The 45 and 40 bullets work pretty well in a multitude of guns with various powders.

As you can see the 9mm bullets give some people fits. I and other commercial loaders can load the 115s and make everyone happy except Glock shooters. ;0)

If the bullet is undersized the polygonal rifling does not stabilize them. They are good for most shooting up to 15-20 yds, but if you have an accuracy requirement then a true jacketed bullet will be what you need.

Now, you CAN make them shoot, but you have to adjust your case mouth tension due to 27+ different 9mm cases with different internal dimensions. Due to the tapered case some cases will deform the bullet base going into the case. This shows up as the tip of the bullet being marked by the seating stem.

Generally if you use a medium to slow powder with *minimum* crimp of .378-380 you can have great results. They now offer hollowpoints in 9mm. An observation is due to the ogive they have to be loaded short, as in 1.110 due to the front of the bullet will hit in the leade of the chamber and not chamber. A lot of shooters like to load longer, as in 1.120 - 1.150 if their magazines will allow it.

I have used their bullets in 380, 9mm, 38 special, 40, and 45. The only ones that I have not been happy with are the 9mm bullets, but to clarify I shoot Bianchi and other accuracy sports, so I have different requirements than other shooters. A lot of their bullets are shot in indoor ranges and work very well.

DougC

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I see a ton of crimp questions. Here is how you set your "crimp", measure the thickness of your brass near the edge, multiply this by two and add it to the diameter of the bullet. That number should be your "crimp" (i.e., the diameter of the brass near the edge).

Another reason I sort my brass by head stamp. :)
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I use range brass so the crimps are variable and the case capacity is too. I use their 155 grain flat point plated (they were on sale so I bought some about 8 months ago) and they shot well enough (2" at 20 yards) at 1135 FPS and 1.130" OAL with some Hodgdon Longshot I had laying around. I tried their 180 grain 40 cal flat point with 3 grains of Clays (750FPS) same OAL and at 20 yards they basically go in the same hole. So at the price you cannot beat them. So I ordered 5000 165 flat point to try because they were on sale. I shot the 155 grain load out of my CZ Tac Sport at PRGC last saturday and placed 4th overall in Limited which is all an old guy can hope for so I'm happy with them. I've had problems with Berry's losing jackets (probably crimping trouble with range brass) and Frontier is much more expensive but their 121 grain 9mm match bullet is my favorite for sure.

Edited by mgardner
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I see a ton of crimp questions. Here is how you set your "crimp", measure the thickness of your brass near the edge, multiply this by two and add it to the diameter of the bullet. That number should be your "crimp" (i.e., the diameter of the brass near the edge).

Another reason I sort my brass by head stamp. :)

Makes sense. I wonder how much of a range one can see on 9mm brass thickness? Probably plus or minus two thousands I'd guess. A lot less than I see on my 300 BLK brass.

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I see a ton of crimp questions. Here is how you set your "crimp", measure the thickness of your brass near the edge, multiply this by two and add it to the diameter of the bullet. That number should be your "crimp" (i.e., the diameter of the brass near the edge).

Another reason I sort my brass by head stamp. :)

I have not been reloading my whole life. Only about 3 years. I used to sort 9mm brass by headstamp but got lazy/too busy with 2 kids so I stopped. I noticed my failure rate, accuracy number of failed case guage rounds go WAY up. Recently, i had a bunch of CBC brass that would not pass case gauge, or chamber in my 1911. I was able to blast them out of my M&P though, but the chamber was tight. I decided that I will through all the damn CBC out. It seems that the case walls are thicker than normal. could be wrong though. The biggest problem is that they all bell different so I was having problems getting them to seat straight.

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I see a ton of crimp questions. Here is how you set your "crimp", measure the thickness of your brass near the edge, multiply this by two and add it to the diameter of the bullet. That number should be your "crimp" (i.e., the diameter of the brass near the edge).

Another reason I sort my brass by head stamp. :)

I have not been reloading my whole life. Only about 3 years. I used to sort 9mm brass by headstamp but got lazy/too busy with 2 kids so I stopped. I noticed my failure rate, accuracy number of failed case guage rounds go WAY up. Recently, i had a bunch of CBC brass that would not pass case gauge, or chamber in my 1911. I was able to blast them out of my M&P though, but the chamber was tight. I decided that I will through all the damn CBC out. It seems that the case walls are thicker than normal. could be wrong though. The biggest problem is that they all bell different so I was having problems getting them to seat straight.

It's for that reason that I decided to purchase a bunch of new 9mm brass from X-Treme Bullets and turn in the ones I have for the brass credit. I'm learning a lot from this thread and hopefully I can start out right with my first set of reloads in 9mm Major

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I see a ton of crimp questions. Here is how you set your "crimp", measure the thickness of your brass near the edge, multiply this by two and add it to the diameter of the bullet. That number should be your "crimp" (i.e., the diameter of the brass near the edge).

Another reason I sort my brass by head stamp. :)

I have not been reloading my whole life. Only about 3 years. I used to sort 9mm brass by headstamp but got lazy/too busy with 2 kids so I stopped. I noticed my failure rate, accuracy number of failed case guage rounds go WAY up. Recently, i had a bunch of CBC brass that would not pass case gauge, or chamber in my 1911. I was able to blast them out of my M&P though, but the chamber was tight. I decided that I will through all the damn CBC out. It seems that the case walls are thicker than normal. could be wrong though. The biggest problem is that they all bell different so I was having problems getting them to seat straight.

I was sorting some of my 9mm brass today.

I separate a few brands (Federal, Speer, Winchester) and the rest goes into "Mixed" which ends up going towards plinking ammo that is never as consistent as the single headstamp stuff but I must have my 9mm toolhead set-up pretty well as I only get 1-5 per 100 that don't pass the gauge and even those will still cycle in my Glocks. I have never paid too much attention to see if it is only certain headstamps causing issues since they typically still function. With single headstamp, I likely won't have any fail to gauge.

Anyway, in my sorting of range brass, I am starting to see some of these more obscure and potentially problematic brass. In about 2,000 pieces, I found a few of these Ammoload brass (tossed in the trash), a couple of the brass washed steel, and far more .380 than I usually see, I blame the Glock 42 for that newer development.

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I see a ton of crimp questions. Here is how you set your "crimp", measure the thickness of your brass near the edge, multiply this by two and add it to the diameter of the bullet. That number should be your "crimp" (i.e., the diameter of the brass near the edge).

Another reason I sort my brass by head stamp. :)

I have not been reloading my whole life. Only about 3 years. I used to sort 9mm brass by headstamp but got lazy/too busy with 2 kids so I stopped. I noticed my failure rate, accuracy number of failed case guage rounds go WAY up. Recently, i had a bunch of CBC brass that would not pass case gauge, or chamber in my 1911. I was able to blast them out of my M&P though, but the chamber was tight. I decided that I will through all the damn CBC out. It seems that the case walls are thicker than normal. could be wrong though. The biggest problem is that they all bell different so I was having problems getting them to seat straight.

I was sorting some of my 9mm brass today.

I separate a few brands (Federal, Speer, Winchester) and the rest goes into "Mixed" which ends up going towards plinking ammo that is never as consistent as the single headstamp stuff but I must have my 9mm toolhead set-up pretty well as I only get 1-5 per 100 that don't pass the gauge and even those will still cycle in my Glocks. I have never paid too much attention to see if it is only certain headstamps causing issues since they typically still function. With single headstamp, I likely won't have any fail to gauge.

Anyway, in my sorting of range brass, I am starting to see some of these more obscure and potentially problematic brass. In about 2,000 pieces, I found a few of these Ammoload brass (tossed in the trash), a couple of the brass washed steel, and far more .380 than I usually see, I blame the Glock 42 for that newer development.

I don't bother to sort by headstamp either and I usually get less than 5 that won't case gauge in 100 rounds. All still feed through my 50 year old P-35. My suggestion? Get a undersized reloading die. My gauge failures dropped dramatically when I made all the cases uniform in size. Also addresses the Glock bulge you sometimes see.

http://www.egwguns.com/index.php?p=catalog&mode=catalog&parent=150&mid=0&search_in=all&search_str=&pg=4

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I see a ton of crimp questions. Here is how you set your "crimp", measure the thickness of your brass near the edge, multiply this by two and add it to the diameter of the bullet. That number should be your "crimp" (i.e., the diameter of the brass near the edge).

Another reason I sort my brass by head stamp. :)

I have not been reloading my whole life. Only about 3 years. I used to sort 9mm brass by headstamp but got lazy/too busy with 2 kids so I stopped. I noticed my failure rate, accuracy number of failed case guage rounds go WAY up. Recently, i had a bunch of CBC brass that would not pass case gauge, or chamber in my 1911. I was able to blast them out of my M&P though, but the chamber was tight. I decided that I will through all the damn CBC out. It seems that the case walls are thicker than normal. could be wrong though. The biggest problem is that they all bell different so I was having problems getting them to seat straight.

I was sorting some of my 9mm brass today.

I separate a few brands (Federal, Speer, Winchester) and the rest goes into "Mixed" which ends up going towards plinking ammo that is never as consistent as the single headstamp stuff but I must have my 9mm toolhead set-up pretty well as I only get 1-5 per 100 that don't pass the gauge and even those will still cycle in my Glocks. I have never paid too much attention to see if it is only certain headstamps causing issues since they typically still function. With single headstamp, I likely won't have any fail to gauge.

Anyway, in my sorting of range brass, I am starting to see some of these more obscure and potentially problematic brass. In about 2,000 pieces, I found a few of these Ammoload brass (tossed in the trash), a couple of the brass washed steel, and far more .380 than I usually see, I blame the Glock 42 for that newer development.

I don't bother to sort by headstamp either and I usually get less than 5 that won't case gauge in 100 rounds. All still feed through my 50 year old P-35. My suggestion? Get a undersized reloading die. My gauge failures dropped dramatically when I made all the cases uniform in size. Also addresses the Glock bulge you sometimes see.

http://www.egwguns.com/index.php?p=catalog&mode=catalog&parent=150&mid=0&search_in=all&search_str=&pg=4

Glock bulge? What caliber?

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I see a ton of crimp questions. Here is how you set your "crimp", measure the thickness of your brass near the edge, multiply this by two and add it to the diameter of the bullet. That number should be your "crimp" (i.e., the diameter of the brass near the edge).

Another reason I sort my brass by head stamp. :)

I have not been reloading my whole life. Only about 3 years. I used to sort 9mm brass by headstamp but got lazy/too busy with 2 kids so I stopped. I noticed my failure rate, accuracy number of failed case guage rounds go WAY up. Recently, i had a bunch of CBC brass that would not pass case gauge, or chamber in my 1911. I was able to blast them out of my M&P though, but the chamber was tight. I decided that I will through all the damn CBC out. It seems that the case walls are thicker than normal. could be wrong though. The biggest problem is that they all bell different so I was having problems getting them to seat straight.

It's for that reason that I decided to purchase a bunch of new 9mm brass from X-Treme Bullets and turn in the ones I have for the brass credit. I'm learning a lot from this thread and hopefully I can start out right with my first set of reloads in 9mm Major

What is the cost per thousand after your credit?

Thanks

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I have had very good accuracy with their 124 gr HPs in a TTI G34 and an XDm. I can buy them locally at the Freedom Munitions store. Been shooting them for a couple years now.

I just loaded my first 1000 rounds 180 gr HPs for a TTI G35. No range time yet due to a major remodeling project underway. :angry2:

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