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Fix for Shaving Lead Bullets


HOGRIDER

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Just wait until you add the rest of the Mr. Bulletfeeder... Each bullet drops into the case mouth with same force. The combination of the modified funnel and the Mr. Bulletfeeder dropper create VERY consistent bullet placement each and every time. Consistent bullet placement creates consistent ammo.

I owned the MBF funnel for about a year before I added the feeder. The MBF funnel is ideal for protecting coated bullets while loading. In fact, when I upgraded to the full bullet feeder I left my powder funnel set up and sold the new powder funnel to HOGRIDER.

Excellent write up by the way!

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Just wait until you add the rest of the Mr. Bulletfeeder... Each bullet drops into the case mouth with same force. The combination of the modified funnel and the Mr. Bulletfeeder dropper create VERY consistent bullet placement each and every time. Consistent bullet placement creates consistent ammo.

I owned the MBF funnel for about a year before I added the feeder. The MBF funnel is ideal for protecting coated bullets while loading. In fact, when I upgraded to the full bullet feeder I left my powder funnel set up and sold the new powder funnel to HOGRIDER.

Excellent write up by the way!

'fish:

Have to say THANK YOU for sharing your experiences with the MBF funnel; and selling me your extra 9mm funnel. Gave me the option of setting up the XL650, in a different way, to produce the easiest seating and most consistent coated bullet ammo ever.

Getting the same results with the MBF .45acp funnel and coated bullets.

Best Regards,

HR

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  • 4 weeks later...

I also purchased the Mr Bullet feeder powder funnels in both 9mm and 45 acp. I was having an issue with concentric seating not really shaving, after installing the new funnels my issues are gone! I have not had a catridge fail a gauge test since I installed the new funnels.

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I also purchased the Mr Bullet feeder powder funnels in both 9mm and 45 acp. I was having an issue with concentric seating not really shaving, after installing the new funnels my issues are gone! I have not had a catridge fail a gauge test since I installed the new funnels.

Good to hear of your positive results!

;)

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And I'll echo the same here as well in 9! Fantastic recommendation. It has eased my reloading tremendously. On a side note, has anyone used the redding competition seating die? Entertaining trying that to switch between projectiles easier.

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I don't get it. If you flare the case sufficiently and place the bullet reasonably straight, there should be no shaving. If the MBF funnel is expanding more than just the mouth, I wonder what impact that has on neck tension? Or do you combine its use with a Lee FCD to undo what it's done?

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I don't get it. If you flare the case sufficiently and place the bullet reasonably straight, there should be no shaving. If the MBF funnel is expanding more than just the mouth, I wonder what impact that has on neck tension? Or do you combine its use with a Lee FCD to undo what it's done?

There's plenty of tension left when using the MBF powder funnel. My ammo loaded with the MBF still has a coke bottle shape (wasp waisted) to it.

If measuring at the mouth of the case I actually use less flare with the MBF funnel as compared with the Dillon. It's a cleverly designed funnel that ensures my bullets go in perfectly straight every time.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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And I'll echo the same here as well in 9! Fantastic recommendation. It has eased my reloading tremendously. On a side note, has anyone used the redding competition seating die? Entertaining trying that to switch between projectiles easier.

I use the Redding Comp seating die for 9mm with a Mr. Bulletfeeder on my 650. I load most Blue Bullets. No marks on the tips, length stays dead on.

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Thanks for the recommendation and information. I was having problems with my 9mm coated bullets. Trying to get the bell just right on my 550 was a constant challange Being a little OCD I have to have the bullet sitting up straight in station 3 so I would fumble with the bullet until it was just so. I saw this thread and bought one of the MBF funnels for 9mm that day.

Wow, what a difference. It made placing the bullet simple and perfect, You can almost feel the bullet "snap" into place. Also I've picked up a little speed in addition to no shaving. I liked it so much I bought the 45ACP version too and it works great.

Edited by SWHlctx
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  • 2 weeks later...

What size diameter are others running for cast 9mm? I've been loading .358, which does require the brass to be worked harder, but have had no signs of leading in 4 guns that I have shot them from.

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And I'll echo the same here as well in 9! Fantastic recommendation. It has eased my reloading tremendously. On a side note, has anyone used the redding competition seating die? Entertaining trying that to switch between projectiles easier.

A cheaper option is a Hornady New Dimension Doe and a micrometer seating stem. Maybe $55 for both. You can then use the same stem for other seating dies taking your total cost down to $30 for additional seating dies. Uses the same sleeve to align the bullet and everything

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Thanks for the tip! I've got a 9mm version on the way for my Square Deal B. I use Bayou Bullets 147 gr Gatorsnot bullets and was having problems with lead shaving as well as having the bullets fall out of the case mouth as I am raising the shell plate. The bell is adjusted correctly per the Dillon manual. Nothing like having a bullet fall out of the case just before it goes in the die and having to fish it out. Hopefully this will clear up both problems.

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Thanks to you for upping this topic, coldshot and to th OP. I was having a lot of keyholing in my 38s coated bullet ammo very recently. Upon studying my reloading process with my 550, found that it was shaving the coating so I added some more belling but it worked the brass a lot for the bell to be right. I also reduced the crimp. Will test my new loads today.

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Thanks for the tip! I've got a 9mm version on the way for my Square Deal B. I use Bayou Bullets 147 gr Gatorsnot bullets and was having problems with lead shaving as well as having the bullets fall out of the case mouth as I am raising the shell plate. The bell is adjusted correctly per the Dillon manual. Nothing like having a bullet fall out of the case just before it goes in the die and having to fish it out. Hopefully this will clear up both problems.

Will it work in the SDB?

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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Excellent write up guys. I have struggled with this on my Dillon 650 as well. Finding that sweet spot where the bullet sits correctly in the flared shell and not flaring it too much where you get brass shavings as you seat the bullet has been challenging, especially with Dillon dies. I was able to lessen the problem by using Lee dies but it such a pain in the ass to set them up being that Lee dies are shorter than Dillon dies and that you have to place the lock nut on the bottom of the die plate (locking it from the bottom in stead of the top - like normal.)

I will definitely try the DAA powder funnel and go back to using my Dillon dies.

Thanks again for the tip!

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I'm giving up on lead bullets. Spent 1/2 hour just trying to get all the lead out of the barrel this weekend. I'm either doing something wrong, or this is not as good as it's made out to be. When I pulled the barrel out and could see loose "strings" of lead, I was not a happy camper. I have some .001 smaller bullets to try, but thinking I'm done.

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I'm giving up on lead bullets. Spent 1/2 hour just trying to get all the lead out of the barrel this weekend. I'm either doing something wrong, or this is not as good as it's made out to be. When I pulled the barrel out and could see loose "strings" of lead, I was not a happy camper. I have some .001 smaller bullets to try, but thinking I'm done.

Gun? Are the lead bullets coated or uncoated?

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Excellent write up guys. I have struggled with this on my Dillon 650 as well. Finding that sweet spot where the bullet sits correctly in the flared shell and not flaring it too much where you get brass shavings as you seat the bullet has been challenging, especially with Dillon dies. I was able to lessen the problem by using Lee dies but it such a pain in the ass to set them up being that Lee dies are shorter than Dillon dies and that you have to place the lock nut on the bottom of the die plate (locking it from the bottom in stead of the top - like normal.)

I will definitely try the DAA powder funnel and go back to using my Dillon dies.

Thanks again for the tip!

If you pull out the rubber O-rings and flip the nuts over you can put them on top of the die plate.

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I'm giving up on lead bullets. Spent 1/2 hour just trying to get all the lead out of the barrel this weekend. I'm either doing something wrong, or this is not as good as it's made out to be. When I pulled the barrel out and could see loose "strings" of lead, I was not a happy camper. I have some .001 smaller bullets to try, but thinking I'm done.

You need to go larger in diameter not smaller to stop the leading. Also make sure you are not over crimping as this will reduce the diameter of the bullet. Leading is caused by 3 main issues. Either the lube is no good or the bullet diameter is too small allowing gas to escape around the bullet when it goes down the bore or the barrel is rough as a cobb. If they are coated, you are damaging the coating when seating, too small diameter or over crimping will all cause this problem. Don't give up yet.

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From the manufacturers website.

"When adjusting the dies, have a case up in the die, including activating the powder measure, then tighten the die lock rings with cases up in all the dies. This makes sure the dies are centered in the toolhead, and in the case of the powder measure die, makes sure the expander funnel goes straight into the case."

I experienced shaved lead when I had the dies improperly adjusted, when I got them adjusted correctly the problem went away.

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I'm giving up on lead bullets. Spent 1/2 hour just trying to get all the lead out of the barrel this weekend. I'm either doing something wrong, or this is not as good as it's made out to be. When I pulled the barrel out and could see loose "strings" of lead, I was not a happy camper. I have some .001 smaller bullets to try, but thinking I'm done.

Gun? Are the lead bullets coated or uncoated?

XDM 5.25. Barrel slugged .3550. uncoated. Dardas SWCFP .357. 1.140 OAL CFEP 4.0 1012fps

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And I'll echo the same here as well in 9! Fantastic recommendation. It has eased my reloading tremendously. On a side note, has anyone used the redding competition seating die? Entertaining trying that to switch between projectiles easier.

I use the Redding Comp seating die for 9mm with a Mr. Bulletfeeder on my 650. I load most Blue Bullets. No marks on the tips, length stays dead on.

Yep! Im now using both and they have reduced a ton of frustration.

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I'm giving up on lead bullets. Spent 1/2 hour just trying to get all the lead out of the barrel this weekend. I'm either doing something wrong, or this is not as good as it's made out to be. When I pulled the barrel out and could see loose "strings" of lead, I was not a happy camper. I have some .001 smaller bullets to try, but thinking I'm done.

Gun? Are the lead bullets coated or uncoated?

XDM 5.25. Barrel slugged .3550. uncoated. Dardas SWCFP .357. 1.140 OAL CFEP 4.0 1012fps

Sounds like you have the lube and diameter covered with the .357 and Dardas brand bullets. Try a non SWC style bullet and see what happens at the same diameter. Does the leading extend the entire length of the barrel or is it only in the area ahead of where the rifling starts?

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