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Stock 2 Essentials


DRobson

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I've done a bit of searching and seem to get mixed answers. I just got a 9mm stock 2 and was curious what you guys feel the essentials are. I'm new to the Tanfoglio thing.

What weight recoil spring?

Hammer spring?

Grips?

Front sight?

ect

Any help will be appreciated.

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100%, get these-

Henning XL Firing Pin, clip one coil off the firing pin spring

13 lb hammer spring

As preference dictates get these-

Stock front sight with a dot of Orange nail polish on it. I tried Dawson and the damned thing keeps getting loose.

The older wood grips with the checkering all over (I know Gump has some extra he'd probably sell you)

Click Pen spring mod in the plunger

I have a 6lb 10lb and stock recoil spring, the 6 seems to cycle the gun a little slow sometimes, I am still playing with this

A sheet of 1000 grit sandpaper to do the Kneeling Atlas CZ tuneup http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=191773

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Go to Ben Stoeger pro shop and they've got everything you need. I know this as I've spent as much money on parts and extras and spares and so on. I got a list posted somewhere. Also if you want those EG grips then I'll sell them as no one seems to have any to barter. Tell them Gump sent ya and Tim will take care of you at pro shop.

My personal must get list:

EG Front sight 2.5mm wide

Henning XL Firing Pin

Henning guide rod

EG hammer and FP spring (light)

One piece sear

I think Eric hammer worth it but will need to do some fitting with sear and safety but if brave enough to go for it now then do it.

6-8# recoil spring

Any questions I'll be happy to help along with rest of forum

Gump

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I worked on a different gun but that doesn't change my experience. I have a Limited Pro that I upgraded with almost all Xtreme parts from EG; the only exception was the plunger spring where I used Henning's.. I stuck to EG parts so as to remain Production legal in IPSC. The performance improvement was quite impressive but I'm new at this and so it's just my opinion. I did all the polishing recommended in Atlas's links. It was a lot of fun to do and I'm very pleased with the results.

I'll be helping a friend with his upgrades and this time we will get all our parts from Henning. I'll report on that project as it goes.

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yes one piece sear is factory. with the hammer you need to fit the parts to get the correct engagement between hammer and sear and also ensure the safety operates.

I'd suggest:

if running normal 9mm minor loads of around 130-135pf with a 135gn pill then use a 7-8lb spring. if using snappier loads with 124gn pills use a 9lb or 10lb and if using the big slow 147gn pills go right down to the 6lb spring.

13lb or 14lb mainspring (if you have a good supply of fed small pistol primers then 13lb should be fine)

gips are personal preference. get what you like

I agree with extreme 2.5mm wide front sight is the best front sight

henning or EG extended firing pin and lighter FP spring

the henning guiderod is quite nice too but not 'needed'.

and the extreme hammer if you're comfortable fitting it.

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The only fitting I required for the hammer was to grind the leg that interfaces with the safety. A small cylindrical stone on the Dremel did fine. Go in several passes until the lobe on the safety just clears the leg. There are a few posts on the net that show how. A small "rat tail" file would work too. Don't be intimidated as it's not a difficult job and easier once you see what's needed up close and personal.

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I would suggest a henning guiderod as a must have. About 5000 rounds through my limited, the frame started to wear and produce burrs where the guide rod contacts. Henning rod eliminates this. I Am using .40 major loads, so a 9mm may not show the wear as fast.

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I'm using the EG light hammer spring with Henning firing pin. I initially had some light strikes but figured out it was because the firing pin block was hitting the pin so I fixed that. So far no lights strikes with CCI or Fed primers. Trigger feel is noticeably better than with Wolf 13 pound.

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Wouldn't it be nice if someone who's gone through these mods were to pull a video together and get it up on the doodie? This would help us new Uni guys immensely.

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I'm not in a position to make a video but there is a lot of material on line. Google will get you a lot of tutorial material. I started with a link posted by our friend Kneelingatlas and went from there. Some of the stuff was for the CZ but still helped a lot.

Here are one or two links for you:

http://www.savvysurvivor.com/tanfoglio_witness_gunsmithing.htm

http://www.savvysurvivor.com/gearrevewtangfoglio_witness_series_pistol.htm

I read anything that comes my way but Google searches such as " stoning Tanfoglio sear" will get you a lot of material. Don't worry about being precise with your searches, just get started. :-)

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I would suggest a henning guiderod as a must have. About 5000 rounds through my limited, the frame started to wear and produce burrs where the guide rod contacts. Henning rod eliminates this. I Am using .40 major loads, so a 9mm may not show the wear as fast.

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yeah it's not really an issue at all in 9mm guns shooting minor PF loads. it's only a problem shooting major PF 40 cal.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I'm using the EG light hammer spring with Henning firing pin. I initially had some light strikes but figured out it was because the firing pin block was hitting the pin so I fixed that. So far no lights strikes with CCI or Fed primers. Trigger feel is noticeably better than with Wolf 13 pound.

How did you figure it out, and how did you fix it?

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Basically my stock FPB, once I installed the one piece sear, was not doing anything. You could push the pin all the way forward while the gun was in battery and the hammer back. Then with the trigger pulled, the block would just barely catch on the pin and slow it down enough to the point where when I sometimes had light strikes they barely left any hit on the primer at all. I got a spare FPB which was longer and which would not allow the gun to fire at all (because it wasn't dropping down far enough). It was .505 long. The stock one was .498 long. I tuned the new one until it was .502 or so and now it works great.

Brandon helped me out over the phone with all of this while his wife was going into labor. He's very dedicated to Unicorn tuning.

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Lol, I'm sure his wife was pleased with that.

Thanks I'll take a look at mine. My light strike was the same way, barely any mark at all on the primer. Since I've only got a little over 100 rounds through the gun since new, maybe i shouldn't worry about it too much quite yet..

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It sometimes takes the springs a little while to set or did in my case. The Henning FP is a tad longer that the EG and ever since I went with it I haven't had a light strike with the EG light hammer spring and firing pin spring. No coils cut off, nothing. Course I had the light strike bug for months so maybe the shooting gods gave me a reprieve for now, LOL

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Hi Gump, the primer strikes on the spent brass are nice and strong, and with the light strike being barely dimpled, I immediately questioned the FPB as a cause. Ill give it some rounds down range. Before worrying too much about it.

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Hi Gump, the primer strikes on the spent brass are nice and strong, and with the light strike being barely dimpled, I immediately questioned the FPB as a cause. Ill give it some rounds down range. Before worrying too much about it.

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The FPB could be the culprit, let me know how things progress and hopefully can get it worked out easily and quickly

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if you are in open you can just take the FPB out completely. It doesn't really affect trigger pull but as you've found out it can cause light strikes if it even lightly catches on the firing pin. Obviously for production you must leave it in, but in open it can come out and I think limited it can too (check the rules of course).

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