Oskino Posted October 26, 2014 Share Posted October 26, 2014 (edited) Ok guys, I have a upper, lower and rail that I want to cerakote and I'm trying to achieve this. I have body shop experience and plan on using a gravity HVLP spray gun to apply. My question is for the experienced guys is this a wet coat application or somewhat dry application? I am using the air cure cerakote and typically two to three coats should cover I would think. Edited October 26, 2014 by Oskino Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silver star Posted October 27, 2014 Share Posted October 27, 2014 If u r sand blasting we recommend media and soaking in acetone as recommend and you get your HVLP gun happy and apply one wet coat, run free of course, and your there. Not sure how forgiving the AR would be but to much on a 1911/2011 and u would have to re-fit everything . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oskino Posted October 27, 2014 Author Share Posted October 27, 2014 (edited) Not sand blasting just scuffing and degreasing. Ok one other thing do I need to mask off the magwell and inner upper receiver? I know to keep an eye on my mil thickness Edited October 27, 2014 by Oskino Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warpspeed Posted October 27, 2014 Share Posted October 27, 2014 Any reason you can't use the heat cured stuff? My understanding is that air cure is not as durable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oskino Posted October 27, 2014 Author Share Posted October 27, 2014 I strayed away from the heat cure was from different type of finishes you can get from the ratio you use. From what I have read air cured will hold up just fine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loves2Shoot Posted October 27, 2014 Share Posted October 27, 2014 I strayed away from the heat cure was from different type of finishes you can get from the ratio you use. From what I have read air cured will hold up just fine I don't think you will be happy with the method you are describing. If you don't want to do good prep, you won't get a good finish. The air cure is not very durable compared to the heat cure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donnyglock Posted October 27, 2014 Share Posted October 27, 2014 A big +1. You really need to blast the part and soak it. The air cured is ok at best. the oven cured Cerakote is excellent. You can buy a toaster oven that will work just fine. Find a media blaster in your area and get the parts blasted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhebert Posted October 27, 2014 Share Posted October 27, 2014 The air dry is for High temp only, it cures with the heat of operation you have to beadblast with a very coarse grit and its a 1 pass coating. it doesnt like multi coats. the parts are small enough for almost any oven I do suppressors with the high temp and its a 5 day cure . The lower and upper need to be totally blasted and de greased. Keep the hardner ratio very low for a flat finish and high for a semi gloss. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oskino Posted October 27, 2014 Author Share Posted October 27, 2014 (edited) So did I order the wrong stuff I got the c-series? Edited October 27, 2014 by Oskino Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRobson Posted October 27, 2014 Share Posted October 27, 2014 You want the H series. Also, read the information from cerakote and follow the prep instructions exactly. People like to skip on the prep work then bash cerakote when it comes out crappy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oskino Posted October 27, 2014 Author Share Posted October 27, 2014 i understand, the paint job mainly depends on the prep Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlee14 Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 Does baking the regular Cerakote in the kitchen oven smell up the house? Does a big, natural gas BBQ work for the bake? I have a HK MP5/SD that needs Cerakote-ing and it won't fit into a toaster oven. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oskino Posted October 29, 2014 Author Share Posted October 29, 2014 OK guys I took your advice and bought a sandblaster and this is where I am at so far>>> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donnyglock Posted October 29, 2014 Share Posted October 29, 2014 Now were talking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oskino Posted October 29, 2014 Author Share Posted October 29, 2014 ok guys got some photos for you I am pretty happy with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WhiteDingo Posted October 30, 2014 Share Posted October 30, 2014 Looks good. A small tip for the future: If you want to do a quick re-assembly on the C-Series, it can be quick cured using the same heat/time ratio as the H-Series. I've found the lower/longer heat ratio cures the C-Series a little better. Did you end up with the C or H for your application? As to rhebert's comment regarding the "1 pass coating", I've had no issues with multiple passes in the same coat, or with multiple coats with a flash cure in between (mostly for stencils, but it can be used if you want to add film thickness for whatever reason) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRobson Posted October 30, 2014 Share Posted October 30, 2014 Looks good. Now some black for the barrel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oskino Posted October 30, 2014 Author Share Posted October 30, 2014 (edited) Looks good. A small tip for the future: If you want to do a quick re-assembly on the C-Series, it can be quick cured using the same heat/time ratio as the H-Series. I've found the lower/longer heat ratio cures the C-Series a little better. Did you end up with the C or H for your application? As to rhebert's comment regarding the "1 pass coating", I've had no issues with multiple passes in the same coat, or with multiple coats with a flash cure in between (mostly for stencils, but it can be used if you want to add film thickness for whatever reason) I had already ordered the c -series, I did 2 passes on it with no problems, mags still drop free and BCG has no tolerances issues. This is my first time spraying cerakote and honestly it was EASY, really the 'hard work" is the prep. I plan on using this as my competition rifle for 3 gun so its going to be tossed around. Curious to see how it holds up. I will update this thread occasionally... also that stock was just laying around my new one is suppose to be delivered tomorrow Looks good. Now some black for the barrel Gonna leave my Nordic 18" 223 Wylde alone kind of diggin the contrast because it matches my WMD NIBX Edited October 30, 2014 by Oskino Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WhiteDingo Posted October 30, 2014 Share Posted October 30, 2014 (edited) Looks good. A small tip for the future: If you want to do a quick re-assembly on the C-Series, it can be quick cured using the same heat/time ratio as the H-Series. I've found the lower/longer heat ratio cures the C-Series a little better. Did you end up with the C or H for your application? As to rhebert's comment regarding the "1 pass coating", I've had no issues with multiple passes in the same coat, or with multiple coats with a flash cure in between (mostly for stencils, but it can be used if you want to add film thickness for whatever reason) I had already ordered the c -series, I did 2 passes on it with no problems, mags still drop free and BCG has no tolerances issues. This is my first time spraying cerakote and honestly it was EASY, really the 'hard work" is the prep. I plan on using this as my competition rifle for 3 gun so its going to be tossed around. Curious to see how it holds up. I will update this thread occasionally... also that stock was just laying around my new one is suppose to be delivered tomorrow Looks good. Now some black for the barrel Gonna leave my Nordic 18" 223 Wylde alone kind of diggin the contrast because it matches my WMD NIBX The H series is a little pickier on application, especially if you're using it with a low hardener content (matte finish). At the higher sheen ratios it sprays much more like the C. What HVLP gun did you use? Just curious Edited October 30, 2014 by WhiteDingo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oskino Posted October 30, 2014 Author Share Posted October 30, 2014 (edited) SATA 1.3 I know too small but straight up sprayed fine, The C series was really dumb proof, if it holds up I will stick with it for future endeavors. Edited October 30, 2014 by Oskino Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.Kirk Posted October 30, 2014 Share Posted October 30, 2014 That looks good. What color did you use? How close did the color match what you were expecting? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oskino Posted October 30, 2014 Author Share Posted October 30, 2014 That looks good. What color did you use? How close did the color match what you were expecting? Thanks, I used Burnt Bronze with Graphite black . The mixture rate is 4:1. Overall very happy with it, the rifle looks SICK man . The color came out a little darker than I expected but overall very pleased and no regrets at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbarnett Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 I do guns for a living and all I use is cerakote . Clean it very well before blast coo part at 300 for 45 min clean again . I use automotive degreaser it wont leave a nothing behind . use a small detail gun to put you coating on . I use heat cure on most everything uless its a barrel that your gonna put a lot of rounds down the pipe . air cure is tuff but not as tuff as heat cure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now