Brassaholic13 Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 Some assembly required on this one. Craig Forcht was cool enough to sell it without motor/electrical/clutch/sprockets so I can do my own thing. Couldn't find another Lung Tang 1/4 HP 20:1 reduction like on my other presses, so I settled on a Sumitomo 1/4 HP 50:1. Still have some to-do's before it's operational. 1. Weld up motor plate. 2. Machine tool head for vacuum attachment. 3. Machine sprocket to fit clutch. 4. Make plastic insulator die for decapping pin fault detection. 5. Make spent primer bracket. 6. Install electronics. 7. Thread pin on tool head at last station to make it adjustable. Should all be done by the end of the weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reinz Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 Sweet! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Currently Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 I am so glad I don't live near you .... It is so hard separating need and want when I look at your projects! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikamarj Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 Want to drool some more? How about a re-designed, water jet cut, index pawl made from 4140 pre-heat treated steel then ground to a precise 0.103" thick? Notice the increased material between the hole and right edge? When I prove the design out, these will be seen on Fleabay. IMG_0725.JPG Does that also fit older RL 1050 presses or just Super 1050? If it fits the older ones, I'd be interested. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken_Bird Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 Yes, I am good for one to. Darn, its only money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjacobs Posted September 19, 2014 Share Posted September 19, 2014 Can you make the tip of those a little different profile? Mine tend to hang on the shell plate and not flip back into place. I always have to file a little on the new ones to take just a tad bit of material off of them so they index properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brassaholic13 Posted September 19, 2014 Author Share Posted September 19, 2014 Can you make the tip of those a little different profile? Mine tend to hang on the shell plate and not flip back into place. I always have to file a little on the new ones to take just a tad bit of material off of them so they index properly. Sorry man, making them to Dillon dimensions, with the added material so the pin can't pull through. If I make them otherwise, then they may be too short for others. It's a lot easier to take material off than it is to add it back on. Besides, with the increased material grade and the increased material, it may be the last time you ever have to touch the pawl. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjacobs Posted September 19, 2014 Share Posted September 19, 2014 (edited) Can you make the tip of those a little different profile? Mine tend to hang on the shell plate and not flip back into place. I always have to file a little on the new ones to take just a tad bit of material off of them so they index properly. Sorry man, making them to Dillon dimensions, with the added material so the pin can't pull through. If I make them otherwise, then they may be too short for others. It's a lot easier to take material off than it is to add it back on. Besides, with the increased material grade and the increased material, it may be the last time you ever have to touch the pawl. Thats understandable. I think something in my machine is just a little off(ive changed every damn part on the advance mechanism) and thats why I have to file a little off the new pawl. So no problems filing a little off the heat treated part? Edited September 19, 2014 by rjacobs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brassaholic13 Posted September 19, 2014 Author Share Posted September 19, 2014 Heat treated is different from case hardened, to which you are referring. Case hardening only applies to the outer layer, which is why it's referred to as a "case" because the hardening is encasing the rest of the material. Case hardening is also only done on mild steels. Through hardening, or "Heat Treating" is done on cromoly steels, and as implied, affects the entire material, not just the outer 0.020"-0.030". So no, there's no issues with filing 4140 pre-hardened. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted September 20, 2014 Share Posted September 20, 2014 (edited) Does that also fit older RL 1050 presses or just Super 1050? If it fits the older ones, I'd be interested. I have them for both. It basically turns a "super" into an "RL" 308 is a no go, .223 will work.The differences in the "cam" between the two can be seen in the fourth photo in the first post here. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=176707&hl=%2Brotary#entry1963232 Edited September 20, 2014 by jmorris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datguy Posted November 1, 2014 Share Posted November 1, 2014 Brassaholic, any progress on the press? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brassaholic13 Posted November 2, 2014 Author Share Posted November 2, 2014 Brassaholic, any progress on the press? This one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nzxtguy123 Posted November 2, 2014 Share Posted November 2, 2014 Is that a router adapted to the dillon die base ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brassaholic13 Posted November 2, 2014 Author Share Posted November 2, 2014 Is that a router adapted to the dillon die base ? No, it's adapted to the trim die and just happens to be the same diameter as the Dillon trimmer and thus utilizes the Dillon vacuum shroud. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted November 2, 2014 Share Posted November 2, 2014 Looks good! What are you using for the cutter and how long does it last/tolerance? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver_Silver Posted November 20, 2014 Share Posted November 20, 2014 7. Thread pin on tool head at last station to make it adjustable. Curious, why do you make the locator pin adjustable for height? Looks good! What are you using for the cutter and how long does it last/tolerance? Also curious about the life span of the cutter. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brassaholic13 Posted November 20, 2014 Author Share Posted November 20, 2014 Locator pin adjustable so that the locator pin engages the shell plate before the die engages the brass. Does not apply on pistol brass, as the pin is already engaged. It's a .223 and longer issue. Dunno on cutter... Still using the same one I started with 50k rounds ago... As for which one... Call Kennametal and talk to them like I did. Some things I'll make you work for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted November 20, 2014 Share Posted November 20, 2014 As for which one... Call Kennametal and talk to them like I did. Some things I'll make you work for. I knew we had something in common. You have dabbled in race cars too, I can see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brassaholic13 Posted November 20, 2014 Author Share Posted November 20, 2014 As for which one... Call Kennametal and talk to them like I did. Some things I'll make you work for. I knew we had something in common. You have dabbled in race cars too, I can see. Car, no... Truck yes... Owned since 1990. I compete only against myself, learning and bettering with each time out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted November 20, 2014 Share Posted November 20, 2014 Ah, well that attitude is common in the racecar world. When I entered competitive shooting, I remember being shocked at the information even the top shooters would share. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tojan19 Posted November 26, 2014 Share Posted November 26, 2014 Can you put up some more detail about your router-trimmer setup and adapter? I've been thinking about that concept for a while, happy someone has actually pulled it off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brassaholic13 Posted November 27, 2014 Author Share Posted November 27, 2014 What detail would you like? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted November 27, 2014 Share Posted November 27, 2014 What insert, what motor, what modifications to tool/ motor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brassaholic13 Posted November 27, 2014 Author Share Posted November 27, 2014 Insert... not tellin... I've spent over $500.00 on insert testing, and unless you're willing to pay for my research.... Here's what will work. 3-flute carbide 3/8" end mill with chip breaker. Motor, Bosch 1617. No mods to tool/motor. Just the die adapter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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